Creepy
Administrator 
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Jun 28, 2007 7:42:02 GMT -4
welding OldYellar's D35c for his YJ. might as well do a how-to as so many people have been asking about it. disassembly:you DO NOT have to remove the carrier from the diff housing to do this mod, if the crosspin will come out past the gears. lower gear ratios will required carrier removal. remove the crosspin. either a 12point 1/4" wrench, or a split pin and a punch. depending on which style carrier you have. rotate the spider gears 90deg. and they can be removed out the window in the carrier. then lift out the side gears.  get ALL the gear oil off the gears.  Rob, the gears were in bad shape, some of the teeth have lost thier case hardened areas, and fractures are leading from those stress risers out. eventually the teeth would have sheared. there are a few different bore sizes, here's yours:  assembly for marking:drop side gears in, hold the top one up  spider gears go like this, then rotate them in, and install crosspin. DO NOT hammer pin. it should slide in nice, make sure the spider washers are aligned correctly if the pin won't go in.  mark the teeth to fill. pick the ones you can completely fill to stop the spiders from rotating.  i filled in the ones i will be welding for the pic  coated with nozzle dip to keep any boogers off the splines/thrust washer area.  filled in the teeth. alternate gear to gear, and go 180deg. opposite as you fill the teeth. spread the heat evenly. let them cool.  its really not hard. this is all you need to do. clean up any boogers/splatter from the welding. clean the thrush washer bearing surface well.  now to re-assemble:put cooled side gears in same as b4. index them to where the spiders will sit.  pop in the spiders and turn the assebly 90deg. into the carrier, insert the pin.  done!   hope this helps!!! don't be scared now  creepy |
|
Grizzly
Jeeper
Formerly TrailTreader II.....now Jeep named by my kids
Posts: 2,493 
|
Post by Grizzly on Jun 28, 2007 7:58:35 GMT -4
Very nice writeup Jan!  |
|
willyswagon
Jeeper
King of the last minute Road Trip
Posts: 610
|
Post by willyswagon on Jun 28, 2007 8:07:37 GMT -4
Thanks Jan, Pictures are worth a 1000 words. I think there is now a new priority for the long weekend!! The old 56 should be even better in the sand after this. If we can get the Distillery open, and the Moon Shine lanched for Canada Day, I'll have to Rip it apart Monday night. ;D
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Jun 28, 2007 8:16:57 GMT -4
|
|
Old Yeller
Jeeper
Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
Posts: 2,890
|
Post by Old Yeller on Jun 28, 2007 11:42:27 GMT -4
Great job Jan!. The wear marks/cracks on the gears is a little alarming though. Good thing the teeth won't be rotating anymore more  Rob D |
|
|
|
Post by itsakeeper on Jun 28, 2007 15:14:30 GMT -4
nice tip on the nozzle dip - wouldn't have thought of it myself
|
|
The Garagemahal
Moderator 
Build Thread King
Resident Army Ranger , Navy Seal , Super-Warrior , Ninja !!
Posts: 11,518
|
Post by The Garagemahal on Jun 28, 2007 17:35:32 GMT -4
You should also use the nozzle dip on the side that is grounded to the table , it will arc and leave little marks
Nice write up Jan
|
|
|
|
Post by Paul Boudreau on Jun 28, 2007 20:17:47 GMT -4
gee your re fancy jan , nice write up , now i will never post pi of the ball of molten metal i turned my carier in, lol , i welded every one of them full then i welded the gear on the carrier, after i intalled the pin in and i left it to cool for a week in some ashes
|
|
|
|
Post by jeepfever on Jun 28, 2007 21:22:25 GMT -4
Thanks for the "how to" and great pics. You've made it very simple to understand. Now, where can I find a skilled welder....
Hey Paul ;D! whatcha doing this weekend?
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Jun 29, 2007 12:51:08 GMT -4
gee your re fancy jan , nice write up , now i will never post pi of the ball of molten metal i turned my carier in, lol , i welded every one of them full then i welded the gear on the carrier, after i intalled the pin in and i left it to cool for a week in some ashes fancy? i made 8 little welds and saved the carrier, and can install a lockrite later. i spoke to a lot of people about this and figured the best way to do it. welding to the cast is not a good idea. it will be brittle, and since the carrier is some small on these little axles, it will probably crack in half right by the pin. not as much of an issue on a 1ton axle, but if you are talking about d35/d44/8.8, its a bad way to do it. good luck. |
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Jun 29, 2007 12:52:54 GMT -4
You should also use the nozzle dip on the side that is grounded to the table , it will arc and leave little marks cool, thx! |
|
justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
|
Post by justajeep on Jun 29, 2007 16:49:09 GMT -4
Carriers are not crappy old cast iron, they are good quality cast steel (or possibly even forged). The carrier in the 44 in my CJ was worn out, so I welded the axle gears to the carrier. I didn't even need to use any special rods, it welded great with 7018's. It's been that way for years now, no problems or cracks. People often think all cast is the same, but it ranges from only being able to bronze it to welding just like mild steel. The gears are also only case hardened (and that's only about 1/16" deep) so when you weld on them, you are burning right through that. They are not hard brittle metal right through. On a good carrier, I wouldn't weld it solid, but if it's worn out, I wouldn't worry about it. Even on a 35, the carrier is going to be stronger than the axles. And if the carrier does crack, it's just a 35. One thing you forgot to mention Jan. The carrier doesn't have to come out to do this. You can take the gears out with it in the housing. |
|
|
|
Post by theonlybull on Jun 29, 2007 18:58:01 GMT -4
Carriers are not crappy old cast iron, they are good quality cast steel (or possibly even forged). The carrier in the 44 in my CJ was worn out, so I welded the axle gears to the carrier. I didn't even need to use any special rods, it welded great with 7018's. It's been that way for years now, no problems or cracks. People often think all cast is the same, but it ranges from only being able to bronze it to welding just like mild steel. very true allen, but most ppl who are looking at doin't this won't be able to tell one type of cast from another. |
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Jun 30, 2007 10:42:27 GMT -4
all true Alan. i'm trying to point out the easiest, no-brainer, no-worry way to do this. this is not the only option.
Paul throws out that he melted the whole thing together......i don't like it. spending more time than you have to, more heat into everything, can't re-assemble, and possibly easier to break from the cast. i welded my steering knuckle tre flip inserts into cast knuckles with mig, it worked fine. i'll try it, it worked. but if i can avoid doing it, then i go that route.
i've seen a few d35c carriers break in half by the pin with the axles intact. a d44 carrier is bigger than d35 too.
anyway, i just want the specific info for filling teeth in this thread. not every way to do it.
i added the info that you don't have to pull the carrier. thx!
|
|
|
|
Post by Paul Boudreau on Jun 30, 2007 20:02:02 GMT -4
if you let your gear cool off in ashes it take longer but takes the stress out of it cause it cool down way slower
|
|
