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Post by itsakeeper on Nov 26, 2008 16:39:26 GMT -4
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Jeepy
Jeeper
Posts: 1,216
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Post by Jeepy on Nov 26, 2008 18:47:12 GMT -4
I think i might pick up one of those construction heaters as a backup to the propane when i wire in the 220v.
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Big G
Hardcore
Posts: 5,146
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Post by Big G on Nov 26, 2008 18:53:51 GMT -4
I was thinking domestic hot water heater, with in-floor heat.
Good to hear someone's got it and likes it!
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Post by sbcwrangler on Nov 26, 2008 19:25:44 GMT -4
I run a single 4800W construction heater in my 24' x 24' fully finished garage and keep the thermostat just above freezing. I ran it all last winter and barely noticed any increase in my normal power bill. ok man, that is what i wanted to hear. my shop is detached 20x24, 10 years old, insulated, drywalled, wood 10x9 garage door, steel man door. two sorta crappy windows. sound about the same? and can you crank it up to work in a hoodie on a cold day? lets say -10ish. where did you get it? who makes it? Garage setup sounds similar. I got mine at Frasers Building supplies for around $100 and have been really impressed. When it is -20 to -30C I am out there in a t-shirt and usually have to turn it down.
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justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
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Post by justajeep on Nov 26, 2008 21:02:27 GMT -4
Shop at the farm is 20x30x 10 high (walls insulated) with a 12x30 x8 high addition (walls and ceiling insulated). We've had a full size oil furnace we got used in there for close to 20 years now. I have the thermostat tilted on an angle so it will go lower, just keeps it above freezing. Every morning I turn it up a bit and light a wood fire in the small wood stove I built. The wood stove is right beside the furnace and the heat from it keeps the blower going longer after the burner cuts out. After that it is rare for the furnace to ever come on again. Always surprises people that my little stove keeps the shop so warm. Doesn't take much oil over the winter, and less than 2 cords of wood.
The shop at my house is 30'x50' with close to 14' ceiling. It has concrete walls and 3 of them are mostly underground. Ceiling is uninsulated but it is also the floor to the shop/apartment above, so it is well sealed. All it had for heat when we got it was an old cast iron wood stove in a back corner. Haven't done much work out there in the cold yet, but on a cool day that stove will just barely take the chill off!
It has a 15x12 partition with a Selkirk out through the wall. I've got a small oil furnace to hook to that to keep the water from freezing. Might try running it off cooking oil. I've got a wood furnace to hook up instead of the wood stove for the rest. That will be fine for the amount I will be working out there this winter. It definitely needs some ceiling fans.
I've got lots of ceiling height so pouring a new floor with in floor heat is what I would like to do and run it and the house off the same wood boiler.
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Gooch
Jeeper
I miss the old girl.
Posts: 158
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Post by Gooch on Nov 26, 2008 21:42:49 GMT -4
Any questions anyone has regarding gas (propane/natural gas) equipment, PM me I might be able to help out. This is what I do.
Gooch
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Roy & Charlene
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"Gettin' Older: It's no place for sissies"
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Post by Roy & Charlene on Nov 26, 2008 21:45:23 GMT -4
My furnace is out of a house. got it for Free about 5 years ago. It's 22" wide & 36"long. I capped off the cold air supply and cut a hole down where the blower is so that's where it gets its cold air. The hot air plenum has two 90 deg. elbows on the top pointing to each corner of the garage. I've got a 200 gal oil tank behind the garage which I'm replacing in the spring to a 100 gal. And I'm putting it in the garage now that the tank only needs to be 24"away from the furnace. Just had $250 of oil put in it today. Got a digital Thermostat on the wall set at 41deg.(lowest it can go).If I need parts which I did once in 5 years, I go to Atlantic Thermal Star on Strawberry Hill in Hfx. Lots of used parts and even used Furnaces if that's what your looking for. He has new stuff too. So as of today I'm ready to go for the winter Roy
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Hawkes
Hardcore
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Post by Hawkes on Nov 26, 2008 22:12:11 GMT -4
Garage is 20' x 20', barn doors leak air, walls insulated with 4" batt, ceiling 1" styrofoam. I have one 2500 W baseboard, good til about -10ish, but I do not want 70degrees. I plan to add a 1500 watt baseboard to the other side of the garage to even it out. I like about 5-6 degrees because I always wear a coat or overalls anyway. The winter I built the Jeep I left the heat on a lot and didn't notice it on the bill, but mostly I turn it on an hour before I go out.
I don't have the room for a woodstove, and since we burn one in the house all winter I don't want to make 2 fires and keep them going. That heater you have Jan will work great, get a double pole thermostat so if you go away you can turn it completely off, Tdog will know what I mean. Point it at the location you work the most if you like to feel the heat on you. 4000 watts will drive you out if it's above 0.
For Len, I think 6000 watts is plenty, but more wattage gets it hot faster, and won't have to run as often, and gives great coverage. You're going to need 2 thermostats, code max is 3750 watts per circuit, inspector used to let us put 4000 watts per 20A circuit.
If you have 2 garage doors and only use 1, plastic the unused one, it will keep the wind out reducing heat loss.
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Hawkes
Hardcore
Lurker
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Post by Hawkes on Nov 26, 2008 22:24:29 GMT -4
Cost calculation for electric heat.
Power is 10.67 cents / kwh.
Say your 4 kw heater runs 10 hours a day.
4 kw x 10.67c x 10 hours = $4.27/day or 43 cents an hour
Say it runs 24 hours a day
4 kw x 10.67c x 24 = $10.24/day
You can shut it off when you're on night shift, and crack it on when you get home, it will be warm when you get up.
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Roy & Charlene
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"Gettin' Older: It's no place for sissies"
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Post by Roy & Charlene on Nov 26, 2008 22:37:55 GMT -4
Cost calculation for electric heat. Power is 10.67 cents / kwh. Say your 4 kw heater runs 10 hours a day. 4 kw x 10.67c x 10 hours = $4.27/day or 43 cents an hour Say it runs 24 hours a day 4 kw x 10.67c x 24 = $10.24/day You can shut it off when you're on night shift, and crack it on when you get home, it will be warm when you get up. WOW!! That would add up over 6 months I'm only paying $150.00 for the winter. Garage heated @ 41deg. My next furnace will be out of a Mobile Home they are about 2'square and about 5' tall. Blow hot air out the bottom. No duck work needed. Roy
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Hawkes
Hardcore
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Post by Hawkes on Nov 26, 2008 22:40:17 GMT -4
It wouldn't run 10 hours to maintain 41 degrees, unless it was way way below 0. Fan forced electric is quick, it wouldn't need to be left on all the time.
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90bronco
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just smitin'
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Post by 90bronco on Nov 26, 2008 22:40:26 GMT -4
I was thinking domestic hot water heater, with in-floor heat. Good to hear someone's got it and likes it! my boss has this in his ,uses a construction heater till it gets -5 to -10 constant temp then he turns on the floor and leaves it for the winter . just runs 2 circulator pumps and domestic hot water tank with glycol .it don't warm up fast so a sudden blast of heat you won't get but it's warm to lay on and water/snow dries up fairly quickly. it's about 18x 22 ,8' door and man door . he said cost's him anout 350 electricity a year. he loves it ! ;D Allen
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Post by T-Dogg on Nov 26, 2008 22:51:39 GMT -4
Garage is 20' x 20', barn doors leak air, walls insulated with 4" batt, ceiling 1" styrofoam. I have one 2500 W baseboard, good til about -10ish, but I do not want 70degrees. I plan to add a 1500 watt baseboard to the other side of the garage to even it out. I like about 5-6 degrees because I always wear a coat or overalls anyway. The winter I built the Jeep I left the heat on a lot and didn't notice it on the bill, but mostly I turn it on an hour before I go out. I don't have the room for a woodstove, and since we burn one in the house all winter I don't want to make 2 fires and keep them going. That heater you have Jan will work great, get a double pole thermostat so if you go away you can turn it completely off, Tdog will know what I mean. Point it at the location you work the most if you like to feel the heat on you. 4000 watts will drive you out if it's above 0. For Len, I think 6000 watts is plenty, but more wattage gets it hot faster, and won't have to run as often, and gives great coverage. You're going to need 2 thermostats, code max is 3750 watts per circuit, inspector used to let us put 4000 watts per 20A circuit. If you have 2 garage doors and only use 1, plastic the unused one, it will keep the wind out reducing heat loss. Anything over 20 amps is controlled by a low voltage relay. Double pole stats turn both 110v legs of a 220v system off. When calculating heat loads for houses we use lxwxh of room, and go to the next largest heater. There are aditions for windows but usually 1 step up covers a bedroom window. Da Dog Hell we may as well put some fans in to push the heat down,,,,
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Hawkes
Hardcore
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Posts: 5,404
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Post by Hawkes on Nov 26, 2008 23:02:55 GMT -4
I hear ya, back in my day the relays didn't last that long, and stats are cheap and last forever. Just keeping it simple.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Nov 26, 2008 23:20:58 GMT -4
this thread kicks ass!
i wonder what a more reasonable time frame the unit heater would be running. the 10 hour example is still too expensive. i would hope it wouldn't need to run that long.
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