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Post by Uncivilized on Aug 17, 2008 23:23:10 GMT -4
I love Swampers Great work
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Post by cjjeeper on Aug 18, 2008 0:57:32 GMT -4
well im glad that my old body found a good home. i shouldnt of sold it:( ya i started to do the body work, but never finished it. man i miss workin on that thing, good luck with the build.
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Old Yeller
Jeeper
Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
Posts: 2,890
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Post by Old Yeller on Aug 25, 2008 6:39:38 GMT -4
Alrighty. Haven't updated for a bit, and I have no new pictures, yet, but I'll share more of my experience trying to mate a 94 body to a 90 frame.
The clutch cylinder was an issue. The newer style clutch cylinder has the two mounting ears spaced a good 1" wider than the older style, with a larger hole in the push-rod. Incidentally this means that the clutch pedal has a larger pin to mount within the push-rod. With the new master of unknown serviceability, and the fact that I'd have to change the line/hose going to the bell-housing, I decided my nearly new one from the old body was going to go back in.
This required removal of the 94 clutch pedal and reinstalling the 90. The clutch mounting plate from the inside of the body had to be swapped as well. The tighter together studs actually mounted up fine in the same spot quite well, leaving an open hole to be siliconed later.
Also, my replacement body had no brake booster/master cylinder on it, so reusing the old one was a must. Of course this changed at some point between 90 to 94 as well. The old setup used a large hole in the push-rod, and a bizarre brake switch getup, attached to the push-rod. The new setup used a pedal with a stud on it, and a extra piece of metal welded to the upper pedal to make or break contact with a brake switch. A much better setup. Of course the 90 and 94 brake switch connectors are different.
I was able to pound out the stud from the new brake pedal, and the hole it left is the exact same as the old style. I then used this pedal with the older cylinder/booster, and it still worked with the new style brake switch. Swish!
All new brake lines were run when the body was off, and after I get ahold of a bubble flare kit again, they will be done. Clutch is bled. Throttle hooked up. Steering column hooked up (and incidentally, all 5 connectors from the 94 body mate up properly to the column from a 90). Engine wire harness is now in place, and hooked up.
Moment of truth. After running extra grounds joining the frame, body and engine, it was time to flash this thing up. No rad or gas tank means we will run it from a beer bottle of gas, because of the mechanical fuel pump on the engine, and for a very short time. I go to turn the key... nothing...lol, of course it couldn't be that easy.
Starter is fine, I engaged the solenoid, and spun the starter using jumper cables, just to be sure. Starter relay isn't getting a +12v when the key is turned to start position. Possibly an incompatibility with the 90/94, or it may be something simple. The ignition switch is quite new however, so I doubt it is that. It was after midnight at this point, and decided to call it a night finally. I have my complete factory service manual, and the electrical manual as well, so I'll do some troubleshooting Monday.
Man the little things take a long time. I'm getting there though!
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Old Yeller
Jeeper
Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
Posts: 2,890
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Post by Old Yeller on Sept 2, 2008 1:44:03 GMT -4
Well, I found out that I had no power coming through the bulkhead connector. Power is present on the engine side, but not the under dash side. After frigging around with it for awhile, I connected up my old wiring to the engine harness, plugged into my steering column, and gave it a go. Success! The jeep runs, albeit poorly due to the many vacuum leaks from removing all the emission crap. The decision was made to tear out all the original body wiring, and install my old wiring. Fun. I should mention that the speedos are incompatible because the newer one had an electrical connection, where mine is just a cable from the transfer case. Also, the older dash wiring will not work with the newer body wiring. Totally different connectors. In the end I used the tub and windshield only. The engine harness, under dash harness, and body harness had to all be swapped over. Since I'm using my old harness, I had to cut the old two pin connector off for the brake switch, and splice on the 4 pin connector, to allow me to use the newer style brake setup. A quick check with a multimeter let me know which two wires to use on the new connector. Now, onto steering. After bolting the steering column back in, and making sure the adjustment in and out of the fire wall was centered (in case my measuring isn't perfect), I hooked the steering shaft back up, and marked where I needed to drill my holes, using the steering box adapter plate as a guide. Rather than having weld in nuts for two of the bolts, like the original design, I opted to drill straight through the frame both vertically and horizontally. 1/2" schedule 80 pipe was sized and cut, and a 7/8" hole saw bit is exactly the right size for the job. The only drill I could get a hold of in short order, that had a 1/2" chuck, was the works cordless. It worked great, for about 3 of my 8 holes. A little MacGyver'ing, and I was back in business with a newly corded, cordless drill. Lol. 18v drill still works quite well on a 12v automotive battery. Keep in mind the front horizontal hole and vertical hole run very close to one another. The tubes running through the frame are touching. A little misalignment, and this wouldn't have worked. Careful measuring and square drilling is where it's at. These tubes will be welded in place at a later date. My time in NS was running really short by now, so we were prioritizing what HAD to be done to get the jeep mobile enough to drive in and out of the garage, and get the massive pile of jeep parts out of Daves yard. After bolting up the steering box, it became apparent that the rebuilt frame is not as sturdy as once thought. When I turn the wheels on flat ground when not rolling, the steering box twists the frame rail noticeably. A good steering brace should correct this however. If I were to do it again, I'd go for heavier wall box tubing. Since it was box, I had thought that 1/8" thickness would be fine. I'm quite certain that the YJ frames were not even 1/8" from factory. Note to self, overbuild EVERYTHING, lol. Crunch time now. I had to leave in less than 24 hours. Next day the jeep came together to a recognizable figure again. New fenders (from Pro-Body) all bolted up, with no miss-spaced holes or studs, front clip attached, and radiator mounted. The hood was put on and fluids filled. I HAD to go for a drive in my jeep before I went back out west, so we went that night. Man it felt great to be driving something that was in pieces just weeks before. All the gages hooked up and working, all lighting working, dash reassembled. There are still 100 things to get this jeep back to road legal, and trail worthy, but we put a good dent into it this summer. Dave will be storing the jeep for me, may get some stuff done for me in my absence, but for the most part, the jeep is now on hold. I feel bad for leaving the old girl in this state, but I had to move back out west for school. On the upside, I have a job offer for after school that allows me 2 weeks on, and 2 weeks off, with flights home paid for! I'll be able to get back at the YJ come February when school ends, and work starts. To be continued...
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Post by tothewall on Sept 2, 2008 8:07:52 GMT -4
Paint that tub green man... LOL Awesome to get it mobile on a short notice.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Sept 2, 2008 11:46:47 GMT -4
you did an awesome job to get that much done in your time off. congrats! it looks good.
love the corded drill. lol
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Post by Ken McIntosh on Sept 2, 2008 11:49:15 GMT -4
Congrats Rob, great progress.Hopefully we'll see you on the trail this winter.
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Old Yeller
Jeeper
Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
Posts: 2,890
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Post by Old Yeller on May 19, 2010 22:37:40 GMT -4
I guess normally it would be a bad idea to dig up a thread that is 2 years old, but since there is progress again with the YJ, here goes nothing. After sitting for ages, and the odd start to keep the motor working, I am finally back at it. The sheet metal work on the tub was causing me to delay even working on the thing, so I bit the bullet, and got someone else to do the lions share of it. A windshield was installed to replace my broken one, while they were at it. Since my doors didn't line up with the replacement body properly, I had to loosen every torx in the hinges, and realign the doors to the body. Sounds simple, but believe me it wasn't. Using an impact driver and a BFH I was amazingly able to get every bolt spinning in the hinges. I replaced them all with countersunk hex bolts, to get rid of the god awful torx heads. Then with the combination of distorted body, and distorted doors, I spent a good while getting them lined up decent. This included modifying the factory adjustment holes on the doors. Monday and Tuesday was spent on the inside of the tub. Everything stripped out, wire-wheeled/sanded, and cleaned. Gaps and edges were all seam sealed, and then painted with a good coat of black semi-gloss rust paint. (incidentally the same type as I used 2 years ago on my frame, and it still looks great). I was hoping to get another coat on tonight, but mother nature had other plans. I have heard crappy things about using the DIY bed-liner kits, if your prep isn't just perfect. I figured that if my interior paint peels or wears in any spot, I can just touch it up with the paint I have. Now for my to-do list, so I can get this beast to the jam this year. - Exterior body filling, prep, and paint - Replace sloppy steering box- Make and attach front swaybar brackets, and install swaybar- Replace rotted out fuel sending unit- Cut off temporary steering box brace, and fab up something better and cleaner looking.- Some sort of rocker protection. (This may not happen before jam) - Front bumper/tow-hooks/Winch mount needs to be mounted permanently. - Mount fender flares, and trimming metal for tires.- Small crap I'm likely forgetting. - Undercoat the body! This weekend is booked off for camping, but after that I'll be at it until its done. Should be doable to get it ready for the jam, but I'm certainly going to be busy until its done. Rob D
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90bronco
Jeeper
just smitin'
Posts: 3,415
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Post by 90bronco on May 20, 2010 20:48:28 GMT -4
Nice Job ,i'm sure you will have it ready in time .
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Old Yeller
Jeeper
Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
Posts: 2,890
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Post by Old Yeller on May 30, 2010 12:11:37 GMT -4
Lots of things have been done, but only a few that make for good pictures. All 4 balljoints, both front wheel bearings, front calipers/pads and rear shoes have been replaced. Front swaybar bracket attached to the frame, and the lower link pin was cut off and replaced because it was bent. Awaiting new bushings and bushing straps to call the swaybar "done" but essentially it is all but bolted up. Next was the trackbar. Since a whole section of frame was replaced, the mount was gone, and needed to be remade. I was happy to find that 2x6" 3/16" square tubing has the perfect inner dimension to hold the trackbar bushing tight. Lots of measuring, grinding, and welding and it too was done. In this picture you can see the god-aweful temporary steering box brace. It gets rectified below. I cut off that massive 2x4 steering box brace, and wanted something better looking, adjustable, and allows for the steering box to be removed if need be. Every good job starts with a plan LOL The idea is to salvage the adjustable portion of an old draglink and a TRE. I only needed the threaded portions so the rest was cut off. After spending way too long at the grinder and cramped fingers, and I was left with this (This would have been a 30 second job on a lathe lol!): Which fit into this massively overkill pipe I have to use as a brace. (It is 1"OD x 5/8" ID) After making a square backing plate for the frame, and a reenforcement for the clamp, I was left with the following pieces to put togeather. Take note that I did all of this welding myself, and can honestly say it was the first welding I've done. Dave is usually the one to do it, but this is how you learn. Anyways, here is the main brace welded together: And how it looks on my soon to be installed steering box. There is a bit of webbing that needs to be ground out for the clamp to wrap around the box properly. Finally, here it is installed and primed. (on my old soon to be replaced steering box) I tried it out, and you can adjust it back a good 1 1/2" away to allow for steering box removal, and you can crank it in tight against the box to prevent any twisting movements when steering. All in all, I am very happy how it turned out. Rob D
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Post by mostheman on May 30, 2010 12:25:55 GMT -4
Nice work thats some good thinking.
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Old Yeller
Jeeper
Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
Posts: 2,890
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Post by Old Yeller on Jun 2, 2010 21:47:14 GMT -4
Last night I welded in the steering box frame anti-crush tubes I put through the frame (Forgot that I just put them there temporary). And installed the proper size bolts. Replaced the fuel sending unit (Working fuel gauge for the first time in 3 years!), and completed the sway-bar setup tonight. On flat ground with 13.5" wide 33's, the steering box/frame does not even budge when turning. I have never had the front end of the YJ this tight since I owned it.
Took it for a drive and it handles awesome. The only play in the steering wheel I have no is in the steering shaft, and it is something I can handle for now.
Only thing that could get picked up on safety inspection I believe is the leaky exhaust manifold, it has a pretty bad tick when cold, and goes basically quiet when the #1 spark plug is pulled. I plan on swapping this motor out for a 4.0L sometime after the jam, so I don't want to put alot of effort into it, but I may be putting a manifold gasket set into it this weekend to quiet it down (and stop the fumes, lol)
Getting close now. God I can't wait to stop working on this thing, and start driving it!
Rob D
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Old Yeller
Jeeper
Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
Posts: 2,890
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Post by Old Yeller on Jun 9, 2010 23:25:29 GMT -4
Well, I went ahead and replaced the leaky manifold gasket, and it was all burnt up where the exhaust was blowing past. The manifold itself is likely warped slightly, so I used a new gasket, and copper RTV (highest heat one) before reassembly. No small chore to replace this, but it needed to be done, and is now nice and quiet. (well, as quiet as an old 4.2L can be). Now the task I've been dreading. Bodywork/paint. Two cans of bondo, lots of sandpaper, tape, newspapers, 6 cans of primer and hours of work results in the old girl FINALLY becoming all one color again (on the exterior anyways) Then, later that night, after too many beverages, and a drunken promise later, my old idea to do the john deer jeep came to be. 6 cans of the finest princess auto Deere Green, and 1 can of Deere Yellow. Of course it is as good as a rushed spray-bomb job could be, but I really like it. Attention whore green! Here it is after yet another late night of reassembly, nearly complete. Yellow headlight bezels and all. Today (Wednesday) was the first time the jeep has been safetied, insured, and registered in nearly 3 years! I'm legal again! Finally, as I was leaving tonight, here is both me and Dave all packed, and rearing to go. A MASSIVE thanks goes out to Dave for the extended use of his yard as my own personal jeep junkyard over the last few years, and the use of his garage and tools for pretty much the entire rebuild of my YJ. Since there I finished JUST in the nick of time, there leaves no time for a shakedown run. Its straight onto the Jamboree. PS: In case your wondering, JD green is only a temporary change. It will be going back to the factory color, and painted by a good friend of mine, sometime after the jam. See you all there! Rob D
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dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
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Post by dan on Jun 10, 2010 4:50:43 GMT -4
awesome rob, it looks great, glad you wereable to piece it all back together again in time.
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Post by Paul Boudreau on Jun 10, 2010 7:06:56 GMT -4
i like the green!
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