badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Sept 27, 2011 13:17:03 GMT -4
all of the options want to point to 240v
does it make sense that my electrical panel is full for 110v but may have a 240v free? by that i mean are there say for instance (10) 110v connections and (4) 240v? I've never really looked at an electrical panel that has old style fuses before.
I'm just thinking I know I only have maybe 3 appliances that are using 240v. Stove, well pump, and hot water heater do electrical panels usually have a standard number of connections?
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Sept 27, 2011 13:37:03 GMT -4
there might be space in the panel to add the circuit, that's what TDog was sayin'
new breaker, wire, overhead heating unit. Done deal.
How far is the garage from the panel? Where is panel in the house?
(I don't know much about this stuff.... ;D beware)
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Post by T-Dogg on Sept 27, 2011 19:36:34 GMT -4
Panels are rated for voltage, amperage and number of branch circuits. There are pony panel's/ sub panels that can be installed. There are also mini breakers for some types of panels. It should be assessed by a qualified person. Ps, your dryer is usual 240v as well Da DOgg
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jmurphy
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Post by jmurphy on Sept 28, 2011 18:25:49 GMT -4
I am working on the same issue in my barn. It had power but only one 15A 120V circuit. In order to wire a sub panel out there my electrician did some panel upgrades in the house. I'll PM you some details on what I paid for what work.
Ended up with a 60A panel in the barn. One 30A 240V circuit and a few 120V circuits with room for more.
later,
Jonathan
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Sept 30, 2011 12:21:08 GMT -4
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Sept 30, 2011 12:30:29 GMT -4
Labelling wasn't common years ago. I bet it is full. Quickest way to tell is to shut off the main switch and pull the cover off by turning that silver tab. If each fuse has a wire it's full. There are reasonably priced alternatives to add a panel to that one.
I recommend shutting the switch off for 2 reasons, 1 there are live buses in the panel, and 2 those panels didn't have a lot of room for conductors so they sometimes get pinched in the cover.
What do you have for a water heater? Was this looked at by a home inspector?
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Sept 30, 2011 12:41:53 GMT -4
i don't know the exact specifics for the water heater except for that fact that it is electric.
we did have a home inspection, yes. do you see anything there concerning?
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Sept 30, 2011 13:17:12 GMT -4
i don't know the exact specifics for the water heater except for that fact that it is electric. we did have a home inspection, yes. do you see anything there concerning? If it's a regular size water heater (40 gallon) it should be fused at 20 amps and have a fuse holder similar to the one on the left with the green fuses. That's assuming the wire feeding the water tank is 12 guage. The reason it has 15 amp fuses is because 20 amp fuses may not fit in that type of holder. Look at a 15 amp fuse and a 20 amp or larger fuse side by side and you'll see the larger amp fuses have 4 plastic prongs which won't allow contact with the panel. The fuse holder with the green fuses has a handle to make it removable and remove both fuses at the same time. Any device that is 240V has to be installed so that 1 fuse can't be left in by itself, it's a safety issue for the user, it's not going to burn the house down. Other single 120V fuses are orange (20A) which means they are likely rated too high for whatever they are feeding. There is a slim chance they are feeding something that requires 20 amps, and the wire is likely 14 guage. If you follow the wire from the fuse holder to the wire outside the box you may be able to read the wire size. Those 2 in your panel are in the second column, top and bottom. I bet they should be 15 amp fuses. 14 guage wire fused at 15A- lights and plugs 12 guage wire fused at 20A-water heater and electric heat 10 guage wire fused at 30A- dryer 8 guage wire fused at 40A- electric stove Is any of this in the inspection report? I paid a guy $650 to see if water drained from the tubs in my apts, I'm a little bitter toward home inspectors.
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Sept 30, 2011 13:45:01 GMT -4
hmmmmm interesting you make those points, I'll have to dig out my inspection report but the only problems i recall him finding is the insulation in the attic as well as around the top of the foundation where the floor meets it.
The previous owner did seem to stress getting the place rewired several times, but always with the excuse that it may not have enough outlets for us. I think the underlying issue was the electrical wouldn't be up to the strain of handling all of our electronics, tools etc.
I knew when buying the house it would need to be re-wired eventually. It probably wont be for awhile as i would imagine it's a fairly pricey endeavor. For the time being the insurance company knows its old wiring and we pay accordingly for it.
Thanks Paul for the tidbit, I feel better knowing the issue's rather than not knowing and simply suspecting them.
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Post by T-Dogg on Sept 30, 2011 22:43:22 GMT -4
That panel could be up graded to a fuse panel easily. The neutral wire is taped up, could be a point of concern.
The main thing i would look for in this house is copper wire,not aluminum.And if the existing wire has a ground.
Full service upgrade would be expensive, extra outlet's, wired in smoke detectors GFI outlets for out side etc,,,
Sub panel's are a common thing in commercial work, no reason it wouldn't apply here. The distribution is spread out to more outlet's, but because of the limited space only a certain amount will be used at once. There for the number of branch circuits may be upgraded, without upgrading the supply size.
You have a 100a service, if it is not electric heat you will be fine.
Da DOgg
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Oct 3, 2011 9:03:00 GMT -4
hahaha T-Dogg do you know my grand-father? Literally every word i read, was exactly the same thing thing he told me. He popped out on the weekend to pick up a few things and i had him take a look at the panel, he was an electrician back in his younger years. no electric heat, oil - so good news My grandfather pointed to the wires coming out of the fuse panel and running along the floor (ceiling of the basment) the black wire is the old stuff (copper) and the white stuff is the newer wire (copper or aluminum i am unsure). He then said 90% of it is new wire you just have this old supply wire which the only difference is it's missing the extra 3rd wire (ground) which would be why most of the stupid outlets in the house are only 2 pronged. By ground do you mean a larger gauge wire that goes from the fuse panel literally into the ground? because that's there, in the open, thru the foundation and into the ground almost literally in tripping area. and it was confirmed the panel is full. So maybe next year or the year after i'll look into upgrading the panel. funny how i went from spending $100 on a propane heater for the garage to this! money saved is money spent. thanks for everyone's opinion and knowledge, i've learned more about home owning on a jeep site then i've probably learned about jeeps
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Nov 7, 2011 15:58:01 GMT -4
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lowridin
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Post by lowridin on Nov 7, 2011 16:58:35 GMT -4
Do you have propane at your place now? Call your local superior or speedy propane and check out tank rentals and propane pricing. As with all these kind of products they will have to be installed by licensed gas tech(they can also tell you if all the necessary parts are included and if these units meet code). Cheap is not always the best option.
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Nov 7, 2011 19:52:01 GMT -4
No I do not, I was thinking of using a BBQ tank since I won't be out there more than a weekend at a time. As I stated earlier its not a permanent solution. Just something reversible to get by until the funds are there to rewire and insulate.
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justajeep
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Post by justajeep on Nov 7, 2011 20:46:43 GMT -4
My parents had one in their kitchen for several years, they work great and put out plenty of heat. You would only need it turned down low after you get it warm, so it shouldn't use much propane.
BBQ tank would need a regulator, and you would still want to make sure it was hooked up properly.
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