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Post by DamnJeep on Apr 4, 2009 17:37:53 GMT -4
What the WMS on that 60? really does look narrow. The Dana 60 is about 62ish inches wide. I narrowed it to match the C&C 14 bolt rear to put in the old YJ. Of course by the time I had cut it I had forgotten how wide the 14 bolt was so ended up making the 60 a bit narrower... As for the "new" front suspension. Since I had interference problem with the lower links I had to make some new brackets and run everything parallel. Originally I was going to 4 link the front but didn't have the room around the headers to do it the way I wanted. So I made a 3 link. Got the ends from Rob Cogswell and welded on a junk of threaded rod I had laying around to make it adjustable. Used some other scraps to make a "sleeve" of sorts. Then formed what used to be my rear links to clear the headers then welded to the sleeve. A bit booty fab but didn't have the cash for material at the time. The axle mount was made from 1/2 plate that I formed at the same time as the rear truss. Then I boxed in the johnny joint and drilled and tapped a hole for the center bolt. Have to close the front in to mount the ram. All just tacked in place until I decide if I like it. I'm not sure if it will need a track bar using a 3 link like this. Time will tell.
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yotaman
Jeeper
Bringin the PANE!
Posts: 950
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Post by yotaman on Apr 4, 2009 17:55:15 GMT -4
Very cool and simple, i'd like see how it works together as i might have to do somthing similar to my junk. Does it have the same amount of separation at the frame as it will on the axle? I take it the lowers are parallel?
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Post by DamnJeep on Apr 4, 2009 19:52:15 GMT -4
Very cool and simple, i'd like see how it works together as i might have to do somthing similar to my junk. Does it have the same amount of separation at the frame as it will on the axle? I take it the lowers are parallel? Yes. The lowers are now parallel. Although they may end up being triangulated again at some point. There is about 3 inches separation at the frame and about 6 or 7 inches at the axle.
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Post by DamnJeep on Apr 11, 2009 11:20:51 GMT -4
Had a couple of hours free this morning. Cut and welded the lower tubes for the boatsides. Then decided to put in some side bars. Built a couple but was not happy with them. Since tape is cheaper Which way would you do it and why? First. Next. Any other ideas?
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Post by gettinwiggy on Apr 11, 2009 11:28:54 GMT -4
DOWN.........like the second option.
Looks like a continuation of the upper tubes!
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Post by ©Big6™ on Apr 11, 2009 12:13:05 GMT -4
DOWN.........like the second option. Looks like a continuation of the upper tubes! X2
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Apr 11, 2009 15:41:32 GMT -4
i like #2. no technical reason, just looks better.
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Post by toplessrubi on Apr 11, 2009 15:53:28 GMT -4
You can use boiled linseed oil on the interior of the tubes to prevent corrosion of the roll cage or chassis, this used to be standard practice when aircraft were fabricated from tubes and is still common in the home built aircraft industry.
Of course you have to do this after the cage is welded but before installation and the fill and drain holes have to be permanently plug so no moisture can enter the tubes. Actually surprised it has not crossed over into the automotive industry.
John
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Post by DamnJeep on Apr 11, 2009 16:09:51 GMT -4
You can use boiled linseed oil on the interior of the tubes to prevent corrosion of the roll cage or chassis, this used to be standard practice when aircraft were fabricated from tubes and is still common in the home built aircraft industry. Of course you have to do this after the cage is welded but before installation and the fill and drain holes have to be permanently plug so no moisture can enter the tubes. Actually surprised it has not crossed over into the automotive industry. John Riiight. So that means you like option number 2. Great! ;D
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Post by tothewall on Apr 11, 2009 16:44:47 GMT -4
2 looks better. I want to see your garage doors!! LOL
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Post by toplessrubi on Apr 11, 2009 16:54:00 GMT -4
You can use boiled linseed oil on the interior of the tubes to prevent corrosion of the roll cage or chassis, this used to be standard practice when aircraft were fabricated from tubes and is still common in the home built aircraft industry. Of course you have to do this after the cage is welded but before installation and the fill and drain holes have to be permanently plug so no moisture can enter the tubes. Actually surprised it has not crossed over into the automotive industry. John Riiight. So that means you like option number 2. Great! ;D For got the quote.... way back in the posts someone mentioned tubes corroding from the inside out. And number two looks good. John
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Post by bighair on Apr 11, 2009 22:28:05 GMT -4
"Theoretically" you shouldn't need a trackbar wiht that setup since your wishbone mimics triangulated uppers with 0 roll axis (having the single centered mount) and not a conventional 1 single upper arm. but like you said, time will tell.
Is there a reason your running that upper front joint vertically like that instead of horizontally? Does that Joint have enough movement not to bind at full droop?
Great Job BTW.. and I vote #2 as well.. 8o)
What's your forcast time for getting it done?
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Post by DamnJeep on Apr 12, 2009 10:38:38 GMT -4
Is there a reason your running that upper front joint vertically like that instead of horizontally? Does that Joint have enough movement not to bind at full droop? Great Job BTW.. and I vote #2 as well.. 8o) What's your forcast time for getting it done? My thinking was to put the lateral stresses on the "sleeve" as opposed to the threaded collar. If that makes any sense. When I cycled the suspension I didn't notice any binding. Granted I had limited space to fully test it. Went to the shop for a couple hours this morning after the Easter bunny showed up for the kids ;D Side bars welded in. Ran out of material so am working only on one side. And I also mocked up the boat sides and started on the floor and firewall. The motor and trans etc were positioned just so I could build around them. However I didn't put the clutch and release fork in. NOW I need that stuff in so I can work the floor around it Out it comes again to put the clutch in and mount the external slave. Hoping to have it done for summer but truthfully shooting for Rue's run in September.
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Post by DamnJeep on Apr 18, 2009 17:18:02 GMT -4
Had a big burst of ambition this morning. ;D Finished the side bars on both sides AND decided to figure out what to do for t-case shifters. The butchered...ahh, modified numerous times , old twin sticks for the Dana 300. Time to get rid of these as they interfered with the passenger seat in the new chassis. And in with the new. And the old shifter for the doubler also interfered with placement of the Wilwood slave cylinder so it had to go as well. Then made a mount for the shifter and mount for the slave. Hope my wife isn't looking for her golf balls anytime soon! ;D
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4X4PLAY
Elite
~ P.O.R.N. FOR SALE ~
Posts: 11,763
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Post by 4X4PLAY on Apr 18, 2009 21:54:54 GMT -4
Haha nice ballz Jeff
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