Big G
Hardcore
Posts: 5,146
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Post by Big G on Feb 1, 2010 21:10:32 GMT -4
Interesting. Those prices seam pretty reasonable. The garage is going to be insulated the same as the house... but obviously the greatest loss is going to be the big door.
Paul, I'm not sure what you mean about the garage door opener, but it won't have one. The house will have an attached for Mrs. Big G's car, and I don't plan on parking the Jeep, or my vehicle in there other then working on it.
The more I think about it the more putting the big door centered make sense. That way I can use both side walls. Opinions on this?
Oh, and about the island, I was just thinking that if it were anchored, it would be more sturdy to pound on or wrench on something in the vise... but true enough that having it mobile would be an asset.
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Post by theonlybull on Feb 1, 2010 21:52:53 GMT -4
the shop we're in right now, has 6" of fiberglass all the way around, steel man door, and vinal, thermalpane windows.. the big door, is a roller door ( no overhead room lost) and is 3/4" t&g ply, with 3/8 stryofoam/foil on the inside.
we do have a 4' peice of plastic, that hangs down inside the door for winter work. keeps the most of the heat in, if the door open with a plow truck stickin' in the door.
put in lots of outlets. 4' off the floor ( clear a bench, or don't have to bend down to plug in a tool). extra circuts. a couple outside outlets. welder plug by the door. lights mounted aprox 10' apart ( lights down by the side of a truck, and under it decient)
we don't have any benches bolted down. make 'em heavy, so they'll stand the abuse, without moving too bad.
if you mount reciever tubes for your vice, ect.. put one in vertical, with a bolt in one corner. this lets you mount a vice on 2" tube, and adjust it up and down for different jobs. that works great on our welding bench to position small parts.
currently, we have about 5600 sq feet of shop space in 9 differnt buildings. most is storage, for iron, parts, equipment, and tractors. One is a wood workin' shop.... wish it was all one big building though lol
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jmurphy
Jeeper
Trail Master 2 - Valley
Posts: 994
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Post by jmurphy on Feb 1, 2010 23:24:47 GMT -4
I'm looking at something a similar size (just got permission to build ) but I'm investigating just using an engineered slab with tapered edges instead of frost walls. I just started the design for mine in the last couple days, I'll keep an eye on this thread and maybe learn something / share my ideas. My focus right now is figuring out how to run enough power off our 100amp house panel.
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Post by theonlybull on Feb 2, 2010 7:04:15 GMT -4
I'm looking at something a similar size (just got permission to build ) but I'm investigating just using an engineered slab with tapered edges instead of frost walls. I just started the design for mine in the last couple days, I'll keep an eye on this thread and maybe learn something / share my ideas. My focus right now is figuring out how to run enough power off our 100amp house panel. our old shop was run off of a 60 amp breaker... 2 guys workin' full time, and we never poped it..
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willyswagon
Jeeper
King of the last minute Road Trip
Posts: 610
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Post by willyswagon on Feb 2, 2010 7:36:18 GMT -4
As Bull said you can run a garage off a 60 amp service easily. I have a 60 amp breaker coming off my main panel, feeding a panel in my garage. It feeds everything in the garage plus a hot tub on the roof top deck. The 220v tub heater, and pumps,for the tub is taking its power form this panel. I've never had a problem with breakers snapping off. As far as sizing, mine is now 22 x 32. It is not wide enough, but I had to work with what was there. It was 22x 20 deep when we bought the place. I can get three rigs in by placing the willys sideways on a set of dollies for the winter. It is heated with in floor, from an oil fired boiler. The old section is 2"x4", the new section was built 2"x6". The floor has bubble foil insulation(I'd use 2" foam next time I do a floor).I'm going to place 2" foam around the outside of the foundation next summer ( I can't lose the space on the inside).We keep it about 10 degree C, and it uses about 100 -150 l of oil/month
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90bronco
Jeeper
just smitin'
Posts: 3,415
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Post by 90bronco on Feb 2, 2010 7:36:54 GMT -4
I'm looking at something a similar size (just got permission to build ) but I'm investigating just using an engineered slab with tapered edges instead of frost walls. I just started the design for mine in the last couple days, I'll keep an eye on this thread and maybe learn something / share my ideas. My focus right now is figuring out how to run enough power off our 100amp house panel. Run another line with a separate meter for the garage ,this means 2 bills but saves you from a panel change and underground to the garage. Just a thought
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Big G
Hardcore
Posts: 5,146
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Post by Big G on Feb 2, 2010 8:08:23 GMT -4
Good idea for the roll up door!
My 24X24 size comes from people telling me that any bigger, and it needs to be an engineered slab. I kind of shyed away thinking it would cost way more... but buddy told me on the weekend that it's only a $75 permit, and some extra concrete! Thoughts on this?
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willyswagon
Jeeper
King of the last minute Road Trip
Posts: 610
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Post by willyswagon on Feb 2, 2010 8:16:07 GMT -4
Good idea for the roll up door! My 24X24 size comes from people telling me that any bigger, and it needs to be an engineered slab. I kind of shyed away thinking it would cost way more... but buddy told me on the weekend that it's only a $75 permit, and some extra concrete! Thoughts on this? Bigger is better in almost everything!!!
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Big G
Hardcore
Posts: 5,146
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Post by Big G on Feb 2, 2010 8:21:49 GMT -4
My buddy's got 30X32, and it's just about right. His brother has 40X50 with 16' ceilings... it's a freaking warehouse!
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willyswagon
Jeeper
King of the last minute Road Trip
Posts: 610
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Post by willyswagon on Feb 2, 2010 8:31:51 GMT -4
My buddy's got 30X32, and it's just about right. His brother has 40X50 with 16' ceilings... it's a freaking warehouse! If I had my choice, starting fresh I'd go with 24' x 32'. The new section in mine was built with a 12' ceilinig so I could put a hoist in at a latter date. Looking at it now, I probably never will, and it's alot of space to heat for nothing??
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Jeepy
Jeeper
Posts: 1,216
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Post by Jeepy on Feb 2, 2010 8:40:07 GMT -4
Go with the 30x 32 at least. Trust me!
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Big G
Hardcore
Posts: 5,146
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Post by Big G on Feb 2, 2010 8:48:32 GMT -4
Ok, here's sketch #2. Allows for alot more wall space. Pretty much what Trever just built.
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'Roach
Elite
InsurJeeper
...the man who decided to use torx on Jeeps should be beaten severely...
Posts: 1,002,222
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Post by 'Roach on Feb 2, 2010 8:57:33 GMT -4
And don't forget to ask me for pricing on the man door. Apex door & frame, at your service. I can also check prices on your garage door quotes...
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Post by casey on Feb 2, 2010 8:59:47 GMT -4
if you put footings in you will not need an engineers stamp. if its a slab with no upstairs your fine. mine has an upstairs so i needed a letter from an engineer to say the cement was done right. my slab total was about $3300
my upstairs is built into my truss which is great storage. ended up with a 16x24 room upstairs for not much extra cost
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Dewie
Jeeper
Junk Lord
Yeah thats right - I drive a Lada :P
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Post by Dewie on Feb 2, 2010 9:00:05 GMT -4
That 2nd drawing looks a lot better. I have a "double bay" garage - which I may as well just cover over one door and put a work-bench up against it... I can get a car and my lawn tractor or motorcycle in but I would never get 2 cars in...
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