chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 1, 2010 12:55:22 GMT -4
Finally started on my garage. It will be 25 x 30 as 750 sq ft is the biggest I can build here. It will be built into the bank, with two walls being retaining walls, and two 5 foot extensions as part of the retaining wall part. Engineered slab with rebar, mesh and styrofoam around the outside. Sixteen inches thick around the outside, tapered up to 6 inches over 3 feet. Walls are ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) that have a R22 value, and are 14 feet high. A few pics, more to come. Moving Rocks Ground is ready Trench for Drain tile Drain tile covered First load of supplies ICF forms ICF closeup Slinging gravel Ready for concrete Pouring Polishing Finished Slab A lot of heat It is amazing how much heat comes out of the concrete as it cures. 5 to 10 minutes after I flooded it, it would almost be dry. It was warm to the touch.
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skinypedalmasher
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Secretary - North Nova
YJ..stock axles 35"Pitbull Rockers..305H.O motor...700R4..What will break first?
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Post by skinypedalmasher on Oct 1, 2010 13:38:13 GMT -4
Awesome..nothin better then having your own Manland...Congrats.
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willyswagon
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Post by willyswagon on Oct 1, 2010 17:09:11 GMT -4
What brand of ICF are you using?
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dan
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Post by dan on Oct 1, 2010 17:31:24 GMT -4
doesn't look like ARXX. you should use ARXX. excited to see the progression, we are looking into an 18x30 single bay shop with add-on-ability for maybe the spring.
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90bronco
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just smitin'
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Post by 90bronco on Oct 1, 2010 17:58:31 GMT -4
Nice size ,what's the kickout on the right beside the garage door for .. compressor?
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dan
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Post by dan on Oct 1, 2010 21:01:51 GMT -4
oh, and another thing, how many yards did it take to pour the floor?
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chevystroker
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NEVER CONFUSE HAVING A CAREER WITH HAVING A LIFE ! ! ! ! ! !
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 1, 2010 21:33:28 GMT -4
The brand of ICF is Integraspec. Apparently this brand has a lot less wastage than the others, the blocks are more versatile, and require less cutting. Googled ARXX and it looks the same, same plastic tie-in spacers. I am sure most are very similar, the concept is the same. The 'kickout' is basicaly a footing to extend the wall 5 feet on two opposite corners. This keeps the backfill from flowing around the corner of the garage onto the side and front of the garage. It also gives the long wall some strength against falling in fromthe backfill. I will use some of the bigger rocks that were dug out to continue the retaining wall from there. It took 26 yards for the floor. Should have been around 22 but there was a high spot in the gravel in the middle that would have made the floor only 3 1/2 inches in that spot instead of required 6 inches. Instead of pulling up the mesh, and plastic, the contractor raised the top level of the floor. Supposed to be 16 inches on the outside, some places are 19 inches. Yes, should have been caught before plastic and mesh went in. There will be another 25 to 30 yards in the walls. 8 Inch thick on the two retaining walls, and 6 inches on the two outside walls. I am quite sure this garage will be hurricane proof based on weight alone: At 2 tons per yard, there are 52 tons of concrete in the slab. And it will be 50 to 60 tons in the walls. It aint goin nowhere. ;D
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90bronco
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just smitin'
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Post by 90bronco on Oct 1, 2010 22:17:58 GMT -4
Ok , i see it on two opposite corners now . Good idea ;D
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shadow
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Age and Experience will trump Youth and Exuberance anyday...;)
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Post by shadow on Oct 2, 2010 9:17:44 GMT -4
Sweet...congrats Wayne
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Oct 2, 2010 9:48:05 GMT -4
Very nice, looks like a great size to me. Height will be nice too. What are you going to use for heat?
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 2, 2010 20:37:42 GMT -4
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Oct 2, 2010 21:12:55 GMT -4
You won't want 20° anyway, if you're like me and wear a coat or overalls in the garage. I like 5 to 15°. What or who caused the size restriction?
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chevystroker
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NEVER CONFUSE HAVING A CAREER WITH HAVING A LIFE ! ! ! ! ! !
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 2, 2010 22:11:49 GMT -4
A few miscellaneous ramblings about the garage. Bylaw for my zone in Lake Echo says maximum of 750 sq ft, but I could build as many garages as I want up to a certain percentage of my property. An attached garage can be any size up to the size of the main building, no larger than the main building. When the inspector came to look at the slab, he never measured it. I could have made the building 28 x 32 like I wanted, and no problems. I am sure I will regret not taking that chance. I had to dig into a slope to make room for the garage, and was going to build it on a flat slab with wood construction. But that would have meant a 5 or 6 foot wide wasted space around the garage, and it would have needed some sort of retaining wall, at extra cost or time. A friend suggested building it into the bank, with the wings to keep the bank from rolling down onto the side of the garage. There would be less heat loss in winter being built into the bank, and cooler in the summer. Conventional construction would have meant a footing, then a 8 foot concrete wall on two sides stepped down to a 4 foot frost wall on 2 sides. Then pour a slab, followed by wood construction and a roof. That is 4 or 5 steps. ICF is an engineered slab, followed by walls and a roof. Seems simpler for this application. Insulated 2x6 wood walls have a R value of 20 versus R22 for ICF. Very close, but the 8 foot concrete wall would have none. I think 2 inches of Styrofoam would give it R10. R20 and R22 sound very close, but there won't be any drafts getting through the concrete. (The contractor told me that as of Jan 2010, all new construction in HRM must be minimum R22 above and below ground. There is now available 6 inch fibreglass insulation with an R value of 22. So, with a concrete foundation, it must be framed inside with 2x6 and insulated with the new R22 insulation, and then sheeted over. ICF does it in one step. Don't know if it applies to garages. An 8 inch concrete wall with 2x6 and ½ sheeting is 14 ½ inches thick. ICF with 8 inches of concrete and ½ inch sheeting is 13 ½ inches.) I was surprised, but the garage door will be R16. If I find it is cold at that end of the garage, I can glue 2 inches of Styrofoam insulation to the inside of the door to increase the R value. Might not look pretty, but it would be effective. Cover it with thin sheet aluminum or something. An ICF building is very soundproof. No worries about noise complaints from the neighbours when beating on a jeep at 3 am. ;D Electrical can be mounted in the walls using a router or electric chainsaw to make a groove in the foam for the wire, and cutting out pockets in the foam for the boxes. Then the sheeting goes on as normal. I chose to surface mount everything using BX armoured cable. It should be a lot less labour, and makes it easier to change or expand later on. ICF definitely requires planning ahead. Through wall holes can be made using a concrete hole cutter, but it is easier to just cut into the foam, and put plastic conduit through the walls before they are poured. I have spent hours planning where I want outside fixtures, as well as inside outlets. Heating: A high efficiency Kerr furnace that does not require a chimney can cost $4000. Regular oil furnaces are cheap and easy to find, but require a certified chimney at 2 to 3 K, plus an oil tank. They use up garage space, though could be hung from the ceiling in a shop like mine. In-floor heat, besides the estimated $1800 cost, would not be appropriate for my use. It is best for a shop that is used every day, and mine will not be, though it will be close. When a large piece of frozen machinery, like a 7 ton backhoe, is brought into the shop in February, it takes a long time to heat that up and the shop stays cool for some time. A friend of mine had to add a wood furnace to supplement his in-floor heat for when he brought machinery into his shop. I like the idea of walking into the shop, turning the thermostat up, 10 minutes later the shop is up to temp, and just turn it back down when I leave. We will see if the ICF lives up to the reputation of being easy to heat. I will keep adding notes as I think of stuff.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 4, 2010 21:31:19 GMT -4
There was a little bit of a wait between the 2nd and 3rd trucks. The line between the two batches can be seen in the concrete as they did not mix. If the floor cracks, I would expect it to occur here. On to the walls: A chalk line is placed on the floor, and a steel channel is nailed to the concrete. The inside panels are pushed into the channel, which sets the location of the walls. Spacers (I forget the proper name) slide into channels molded into the styrofoam, and locate and tie in the outer foam blocks. The outer blocks can overhang the slab, which gives more room inside. The channels, spaced every 8 inches, go through the foam to within 3/4 inch of the other side. These are for attaching strapping, siding, OSB or drywall. The styrofoam blocks are simply cut to length with a handsaw. 2nd pic shows a T-intersection, which is where the walls transition from 8 inches thick on the back two to 6 inches thick on the outside two walls. This is the corner on a 6 inch thick wall. This is the corner on an 8 inch thick wall. (before rebar) Various pics of the blocks and rebar. This was at noon, 4 hours of work: Got back home after dark, but the walls were up to 8 feet, almost all the way around. Progress will slow down when they get to the window and door openings. Hope to pour the walls on Friday.
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Post by theonlybull on Oct 4, 2010 21:41:56 GMT -4
if you find the end by the door cool, a peice of 6 mil plastic, on a peice of strapping, hung across the top of the door, and drapped down to the floor makes a world of difference. we've got one that hangs down to about 6'4" so if a truck's half in the shop in the winter, we don't loose all our heat. it's made a big difference in our heat. about $400-500 to heat a 20-40 all year long. somedays with the 10' door wide open and snow blowing in
nice think about those forms, stuff goes up so quick
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