chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 4, 2010 21:47:05 GMT -4
Thanks, I will try that if I need to. I assume you mean to hang it down on the inside of the door, inside the building?? It would be stationary, not go up with the door?
I might glue two inch thick pink styrofoam insulation to the door panels to increase the R-value of the garage door; IF needed. I would cover them with aluminum to prevent damage to them.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Oct 4, 2010 21:47:57 GMT -4
I've never seen or heard of this type of construction before. pretty cool.
Good luck with it all Wayne, i'm sure you put lots of thought into it. the old backhoe looks alot better than the last time I saw it.
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Post by theonlybull on Oct 4, 2010 22:02:52 GMT -4
yup. just hang it down the inside. put it up if your gonna be working in there, or take it down if it's mostly gonna be in and out.
we also put some styrofoam board stuff on ours, it had foil on one side, and plastic on the other, the foam was only about 1/2" much better then just 5/8" ply on our roller doors lol
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chevystroker
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NEVER CONFUSE HAVING A CAREER WITH HAVING A LIFE ! ! ! ! ! !
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 4, 2010 22:18:13 GMT -4
I've never seen or heard of this type of construction before. pretty cool. Good luck with it all Wayne, i'm sure you put lots of thought into it. the old backhoe looks alot better than the last time I saw it. First I have heard of it too. I didn't put nearly enough thought into it, but it is falling into place very well so far. What I have learned is if you want a garage this year, you better have started last year. I think I started on it in June. It was Solange who showed me the info on the ICF, and did a lot of running around for quotes while I was away. Other than new to me frt and rr tires, nothing new on it so far. It is one of the reasons I need a big shop, to get the backhoe in there to do some work on it. So many projects, so little time.
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chevystroker
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NEVER CONFUSE HAVING A CAREER WITH HAVING A LIFE ! ! ! ! ! !
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 4, 2010 22:20:31 GMT -4
we also put some styrofoam board stuff on ours, it had foil on one side, and plastic on the other, the foam was only about 1/2" much better then just 5/8" ply on our roller doors lol I was hoping there would be some sort of foil or aluminum backed insulation. I will have to look for some. The garage door I picked has an R16 rating, which I thought was pretty good for a 1 3/4 inch thick door. More is always better though. ;D
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Post by Truro Offroad on Oct 5, 2010 10:36:03 GMT -4
My basement is ICF construction, not sure why they didn't continue all the way up tho..
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Post by crazyfrog on Oct 5, 2010 10:43:21 GMT -4
My basement is ICF construction, not sure why they didn't continue all the way up tho.. Cost
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Oct 5, 2010 11:42:56 GMT -4
yup. just hang it down the inside. put it up if your gonna be working in there, or take it down if it's mostly gonna be in and out. we also put some styrofoam board stuff on ours, it had foil on one side, and plastic on the other, the foam was only about 1/2" much better then just 5/8" ply on our roller doors lol That stuff (or something like it) is called Mitten levelwall. It comes in small sheets and has a typar like finish on one side and foil on the other. It's used to level the outside wall before putting vinyl siding on, my house in Sackville has it. I picked some up at kent to do renos. The seams need to be taped with the red tape. My neighbors house is ICF, built about 15 years ago.
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dan
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Post by dan on Oct 5, 2010 16:23:41 GMT -4
I work in the garage for a concrete company in the valley. they sell ARXX brand ICF. I fix the trucks that deliver it.
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Big G
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Post by Big G on Oct 5, 2010 20:08:11 GMT -4
Just a little FYI; the new building code says R22 is required, so the insulation companies came up with 6" R22 that cost twice as much as the old 6" R20 (rip off!!!). My contractor uses the old R20, and 2" foam that has an R value of 4. Cheaper and better.
disclaimer; my #s might be wrong, but the point I'm making is true. LOL
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Oct 5, 2010 21:11:05 GMT -4
Just a little FYI; the new building code says R22 is required, so the insulation companies came up with 6" R22 that cost twice as much as the old 6" R20 (rip off!!!). My contractor uses the old R20, and 2" foam that has an R value of 4. Cheaper and better. disclaimer; my #s might be wrong, but the point I'm making is true. LOL Roxul is R22, exact same price as Rona's regular brand R20, except Rona's bag is 75ft2 and Roxul's is 37.5ft2. Not sure why Roxul costs twice as much. Where did he put the foam, on the outside?
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Big G
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Post by Big G on Oct 6, 2010 11:19:15 GMT -4
Yup.
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shadow
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Post by shadow on Oct 6, 2010 16:07:02 GMT -4
Thanks for the detailed photos Wayne. My carpenters talk about it quite often, but I have never seen it. Very cool
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iwonajeep
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Post by iwonajeep on Oct 7, 2010 5:08:01 GMT -4
I built my house in 2006 with Nudura ICF and was barely 10 percent more on costs over wood frame, with the exception of the roof you hang gyproc right on the wall, no vapor barrier, no insulation, exterior sheething, typar, bracing or straping and 3 guys lego blocked it together in 6 days total. Your savings are in the labour, lot of steps are skipped in this type of build and they heat with a candle, you won't regret it.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Oct 8, 2010 22:09:38 GMT -4
I built my house in 2006 with Nudura ICF and was barely 10 percent more on costs over wood frame, Mine is a bit more expensive because of the height. A 14 foot wall is 75% more material than an 8 foot wall. Almost double the material costs, plus the height slows down the process. Of course, a 14 foot wooden walled shop will be a lot more expensive than an 8 foot one. Time for an update. I was away for a couple of days. Thursday evening: Almost ready for concrete. Lots of bracing The door and window openings are capped with pressure treated 2 x 6 bucks One and two inch plastic electrical conduit was passed through the walls before the pour and sealed with expanding foam. These are for exterior electrical. Boards are screwed on the corner to brace it. Any gaps are filled with expanding foam. The metal channel used at the start on the bottom is also used to cap the top row. It keeps the wall straight, and makes it easier to trowel the top level. Pumping concrete today (Friday). The first truckload had plasticizer added so it would set up quicker to help prevent the weight of the upper concrete from causing a blowout at the bottom. The concrete was poured all the way around the form in about a half dozen passes. A couple of minor blowouts. The wooden buck in the window opening popped out of place. It was pushed back in and braced with 2x4. The other window openings were braced before pouring continued. The corner of one panel shifted, but no concrete came out. It pushed back into place easily, and two braces were screwed across it. No picture of it, but one small panel near the top inside popped completely out of place, it had very little concrete above it. Same repair: push back in place, screw braces across it. Anchor bolts in the top, between the metal channel caps. There was just over 1/4 yard of concrete left over when the pumper was cleaned out. I had thrown a few forms together, along with some round ductwork pieces to make some concrete pads. This is one long form. I will cut it into 6 pieces with the chopsaw. I had saved the concrete in an old boxliner. I formed the last bit of it in there with some 2x4's and put 4 pieces of rebar in it. I will flip it over to use it, and it should have the same pattern of ribs as the boxliner. It will be interesting to see how it works out. I will put it in front of the garage door. They should be back monday or tuesday to start stripping the bracing. Roof trusses on Wednesday. The vertical braces have to stay in the door openings for maybe up to two weeks until the concrete sets up properly to prevent it sagging under its own weight.
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