90bronco
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just smitin'
Posts: 3,415
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Post by 90bronco on Mar 4, 2011 9:35:10 GMT -4
Plywood blades bring out the suck ...... you can get metal blades for skill saws . sometimes we use a 40 tooth old blade and turn it backwards (cheap rednecks). Still cuts pretty well and teeth are far enough apart as to not gum up .
Thanks for the poke , i have some more job pics i may post up over the weekend.
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rue
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Buggy!
DARE YA
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Post by rue on Mar 4, 2011 9:58:10 GMT -4
lookin good, You should of used a courser carbide blade to cut up the case.That's what we use to cut 1/4" plate at work.
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90bronco
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just smitin'
Posts: 3,415
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Post by 90bronco on Mar 4, 2011 12:01:36 GMT -4
lookin good, You should of used a courser carbide blade to cut up the case.That's what we use to cut 1/4" plate at work. yes , meant to say carbide ..
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Mar 4, 2011 13:28:18 GMT -4
lookin good, You should of used a courser carbide blade to cut up the case.That's what we use to cut 1/4" plate at work. yeah, makes more sense. next time.
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yotaman
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Bringin the PANE!
Posts: 950
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Post by yotaman on Mar 4, 2011 18:09:22 GMT -4
Looks awesome man!! Should tig up rite nice Just use some degreaser on it before ya bring it by cuz dirty aluminum brings the suck when it comes to tig.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Mar 4, 2011 18:36:57 GMT -4
What about the brake cleaner/death thing? What should I use?
I've got it all scraped and washed. how should I prep the weld area?
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yotaman
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Bringin the PANE!
Posts: 950
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Post by yotaman on Mar 4, 2011 18:46:29 GMT -4
Some thinner or silicone wash stuff works...as long as most of the oil residue is off it will be fine.
What happens is once you power up the electrode on the tig torch oil or paint will come to the surface as black "crap" and the aluminum gets rite bubbly. Looks good now but ya just give it a wipe clean from any cutting oil.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Mar 4, 2011 18:56:40 GMT -4
ok, will do.
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dan
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Membership Co-ord - Valley
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Post by dan on Mar 5, 2011 10:17:48 GMT -4
if you plan to use brake cleaner Jan, pick up a can or two of the non-chlorinated stuff. it is actually more common now than chlorinated. the chlorine is what causes the harm when welding. we tried cleaning some stuff with non-chlorinated brake clean at work a while back when we welded up some cracks in one of our aluminum dump trailers. it was fine for cleaning off the surface stuff, but it won`t draw up the stuff in the metal, so get some aluminum sanding discs for the grinder or something of the like to quickly scuff your welding surfaces before you start at it.
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dan
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Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
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Post by dan on Mar 5, 2011 10:18:29 GMT -4
also, it will say right on the front of the can if it is non-clhorinated. it won`t say anything at all on the front if it does have chlorine in it.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Mar 8, 2011 0:04:21 GMT -4
Well i got the t-case parts dropped off to Matt for welding, and have the adapter mostly drawn up in Autocad. Should have the reduction box done by the weekend.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Mar 11, 2011 20:26:16 GMT -4
Box is welded and home...fitting and testing sheetmetal adapter plates, close to cutting out adapter.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Mar 12, 2011 13:38:31 GMT -4
making #'s for the computer. getting the holes and shafts lined up. Remember concentricity, word of the week from 2 weeks ago? This is the test. getting it mapped out. clocking ring from Don in the valley, bought used last year. Need that there to clock and hold studs. test fitting some locations on a sheetmetal adapter. Couple of tight spots where I gotta use studs. This spot needs clearance to get a nut on. I think the geometery is all laid out now... lots of testing and fitting. Matt welded up the side plate on the 231c reduction box thru the week. Great job Matt! Should work perfect. He had a tuff time with the different thickness aluminum and had to do some pre-heating, but it all came out ok. Master of the bung-hole. ;D final geometery, I think...... Ding! dinner is ready. Yeah, so three weeks of design work and all I have on Friday nite to cut this thing out with is dirty 3/8" hardplate from the side of a crusher bin. forgot to get steel for the weekend. Burn baby burn! so there are 3 adapters. 1. clocking ring, to raise D300 and hold studs. 2. spacer ring to give clearance to get nuts on studs, with built in chassis mount to control torque and not have to rely on aluminum cases. 3. the adapter plate to the modified 231c front case.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Mar 12, 2011 14:12:48 GMT -4
got studs? ;D i was skeptical of bolts fitting on the 3 studs (towards the shifter) , so I moved those 3 to a smaller bolt circle. i thought they might hit the inside of the reduction box. Transfer punch, drill, and tapped the clock ring for the 3 new stud locations. i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k517/creepycnc/Celtic%20Crawler/11-03-012adapterplatesgoingtogether042.jpg[/IMG]spacer plate/mount. You'd have to shear 9 studs for the t-cases to rotate. That mount will be right to the chassis. adapter plate why the spacer plate is nessecary, the 2 stud holes on the left need to be able to get a nut on them. Without the spacer plate, the stud would be hard on the D300 and you couldn't get a nut on! the other tight stud on the lower left. D300 is rotated right into the 231c to make it as flat and compact as possible. Wicked tight clearances. i love when this kinda stuff comes together so nice. The oil pan is actually lower than the corner of the 231c box. The D300 is well above the trans pan. 19.5" overall length. Pretty happy with all that.
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90bronco
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just smitin'
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Post by 90bronco on Mar 12, 2011 14:40:41 GMT -4
Nice , getting to be a few home brew doubler's being made .
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