justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
|
Post by justajeep on Mar 13, 2011 9:46:23 GMT -4
Up until the last few years, 4.0's had factory headers.
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Mar 13, 2011 13:02:20 GMT -4
Nice score, the 4.0 is so much better.
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Mar 13, 2011 17:09:01 GMT -4
yeah, I can't wait to get this finished now, and see how much better it works on the road.
so Today, I cut off my engine mounts from the frame, and measured a million times before re-welding them. I have the driver side mount welded solid, the passenger side is tacked in place for now. I also pulled the radiator from the donor rig. it picked up a hole on the way home yesterday, while it chaffed against the fan. not sure if the rad is the same as the 2.5 rad or not, so I may solder it up some time down the road and keep it.
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Mar 26, 2011 16:50:43 GMT -4
I picked up my rims last night, along with engine and transmission mounts. tires are all now mounted up on the new rims. I'll get pics later, or tomorrow, or sometime.
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Mar 28, 2011 5:39:22 GMT -4
I got my tires remounted at work saturday. never knew that breaking down a set of 35" tires could be that much work, even with a machine..... so here is what I went with: basic Keystone 15x8 rim, 4" backspacing. cheap enough that siome day down the road *if* I wanted beadlocks, I wouldn't feel bad about welding the rings onto them. here is a look at the rear where it is sitting. I'm still not totally sure that will be the final location for the rear end. when I mount the powertrain and body, I will have to see how it looks. this isn't the final track width right now. I think it is sitting at about 72" from outside of tread lugs. I don't have the brakes on yet (I think I will go with the drums in the end, for now, just to save some time) or my wheel spacers, since the rear waggy axle is narrower than the front, so when the drums and spacers are in, I should be around 76" wide. here are the motor mounts, now that they have been relocated for the 4.0L here is a look at the front calipers. should have had a YJ caliper for comparison, but you can still see the size of these. here you can get an idea of how much clearance there is between the caliper and the rim. hopefully this week I will have the front rotors resurfaced, and put the front back together so I can roll it outside to swap the engine over from the donor.
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Apr 11, 2011 5:43:29 GMT -4
got back to it this weekend, and made the decision that the rear was too tall. and too long for 35's. I came up with an idea for frenching my shackles a little, to give me less rear lift, and also to make a smoother transition from the frame rail back, for sliding off of rocks and such. so this is what I came up with. I made these out of 2x4x3/16" tube I had laying around. used a 6 1/2" long section for either side, so as not to be wasteful. the hole is about 2" higher into the frame, so I should have about an inch less of lift, which I'm sure will be a good thing. I moved the mounts forward 3 1/2" inches also, because like I already said, it just looked funny with 7" inches or so of stretch. 3 1/2" or 4" is better I think, and I won't have to comp-cut either!!! cuz comp cutting is fawking ugly if the tire is too small or not far enough back. as you can see, the shackles are hanging where I had everything before. now I'm going to either use the bushing hole that is there in the frame, or remove that and move it back as far as I can, and make some boomerage shackles to get around the bumper. that will be for another time though.
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Apr 21, 2011 21:04:21 GMT -4
I drew up a template tonight for some new shackles for the rear. they were then transfered to the last of the 3/8" plate that I have. I cut them all out, roughly, tack welded them together so I could grind them all together so they are the same, and began grinding. Dad came out and said "I wonder who's buying a new grinder when that one burns up?" I said "I am, since I'm the only one who has ever used it" and then he left and went back inside. not 3 minutes later i could hear a bit of a funny noice in the grinder, then it started getting weaker and weaker. I stopped for a minute to throw on a zip-wheel, and cut a couple of small pieces off, then switched back to the grinding wheel, and NOTHING. totally dead. I shook it a bit, then it cut back in for half a second and quit again. tore into it to find the culprit, discovered that one of my brushes is destroyed, and the wiere on the brush was grounding out on the holder. now I'm either going to rebuild it with brushes from another application, or will be heading to Canadian Tire for a new 5" grinder saturday...
|
|
|
Post by T-Dogg on Apr 21, 2011 22:41:04 GMT -4
@ $20.00 a piece for grinder, I replace, also thay are usually good for warrenty.
Da DOgg
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Apr 22, 2011 6:48:21 GMT -4
I don't waste my time with the 4 1/2 grinder. we have used the same 5" grinder from CT for 4 years. it has cut and ground more metal than you can imagine. it isn't worth the money for me to buy the $20 ones, because they don't last. it's just an inconvenience to have to have 6 of them in order to make it through a project, plus my nearest canadian tire is half an hour away. and six of the cheap ones on sale come to the same price of the big one @ regular price. I'd rather have the grinder that will last a while.
|
|
Dewie
Jeeper
Junk Lord
Yeah thats right - I drive a Lada :P
Posts: 1,249
|
Post by Dewie on Apr 26, 2011 7:45:37 GMT -4
I was recently given one of the cheap 20 grinders that was broken, buddy was getting tired of taking it back to be replaced. I exchanged it for a new one got it home and compared it to my "good" one from CDN Tire - they're like night and day - you turn the cheap one off and it spins down in a couple seconds - the good one takes a good 10 seconds or more to spin down. You can feel there are no bearings in the cheap one, likely just bushings of some nature...
If you intend to use it get a good one - if you intend to leave it sit on the shelf for 10 years just to have it (like the majority of people), get a cheap one...
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Apr 29, 2011 5:18:35 GMT -4
last night I took it upon myself to go visit the neighbor and see if I could borrow his tractor to use as an engine hoist. he wasn't home, but I was in the mood for lifting things, so strapped a chain around our "lifting branch" in our oak tree, added a support brace, and rolled over my donor engine on its chassis. pulled the t-case off to shed some weight, and grabbed the chain come-along. pulled engine up in the air, watched gear start to spill all over the ground out of the output. plugged the output with a rag, towed the chassis out of the way, and brought out the new frame, rolled it into place, dropped the engine and trans in, and rolled it back into the shop.
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Apr 29, 2011 6:45:25 GMT -4
All looking good Dan. you aren't going to get that list done in a few days, but you can get 'er all done for Jam. You are just doing the slow stuff, it'll speed up.
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Apr 29, 2011 7:18:58 GMT -4
yeah, I know. I've had to do a lot of slow work. most of my welding and fab is finished now except for some body work, but I won't be getting too fussy with the finish work on that, at least not before Jam. I know I'm getting into the faster stuff now that I have the frame and suspension basically finshed. I just can't wait to see it more together now...
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on Apr 30, 2011 22:18:01 GMT -4
I managed to get the engine switched in last night, and bolted up my new-to-me t-case today. I also managed to finish up the rear shackles, and have it sitting up in the back a bit. still have to finish one of the motor mounts on the frame, as a 2.5l YJ uses a different mount on the passenger side, so I have to modify it so both bolts hold the mount on.
|
|
dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
|
Post by dan on May 1, 2011 9:33:14 GMT -4
I don't know how I forgot last night, but I had pulled the manifolds off last week, so yesterday I cleaned a bunch of the dirt from the block, scraped the gaskets off, and cleaned the gasket surfaces. a couple of the frost plugs looked a bit thin, so I knocked them all out and will get some new ones at work tomorrow. I also changed out the old transmission mount for a new one, and discovered my 4.0 trans mounting plate I welded in is too tall. the stock skid plate was deceiving, so I will be cutting it apart and dropping it back down 3/4" of an inch or so, to gain a little clearance for the rear d-shaft. hopefully I get some more done today after I get back from town. should have the afternoon and evening all to myself!
|
|