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Heepota
Dec 3, 2008 10:59:12 GMT -4
Post by mostheman on Dec 3, 2008 10:59:12 GMT -4
My drill press is bigger.......
I see what your saying the variable speed of a hand drill.
Ill probably take it to my machinist and get it reamed If i can't do it by hand.
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Heepota
Dec 3, 2008 21:16:12 GMT -4
Post by mostheman on Dec 3, 2008 21:16:12 GMT -4
Played a bit more tonight. Put in a cross piece in between the 2 side pieces just to be sure. Ignore the welds they dont look like bird poop it must be the flux leftover..... Then fabbed up a cover to go on the back of the brace. I left the front open as were going to see if we can still fit a tow hook into the factory threaded inserts. Welded it down. Assembled, time to move on to the next issue. I decided to incorporate a steering box brace into the reminants of the grille support and brace the now free end of the grille support all at once. Fabbed up a flange/support to weld to the back of the bumper. No in progress pics but it bolts to the end of the tube and will extend over to the newly relocated steering box. Here it is all welded up and ready for the steering box side to be completed. I'll run a piece of pipe over to the steering box and fab a piece of 3/16 to bend around the end of the box. Its coming allong and I'm happy with the results thus far. My only concern is I will have a hard time getting a good solid mount for a winch in the future.
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Hawkes
Hardcore
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Posts: 5,404
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Heepota
Dec 3, 2008 21:58:38 GMT -4
Post by Hawkes on Dec 3, 2008 21:58:38 GMT -4
I like the steering box brace idea.
I'm a bit limited on fancy tools, I used a die grinder with a taper burr, and kept test fitting the tie rod. The tie rod would make a mark inside the taper and show me where the high spots were. After that I used a cheap reamer to make it smooth. Reamed it by hand.
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Heepota
Dec 4, 2008 11:59:22 GMT -4
Post by Dr. Burkeee on Dec 4, 2008 11:59:22 GMT -4
Looks good Mo. Plenty strong for sure.
The FJ taper is some wacko metric thing, cost you a mint to buy the right one, if you could even find it. For John's truck we bought a pre-tapered insert from Marlin Crawler and tig'd it in. Was only $12, but order some other stuff you need at the same time, cause the shipping will suck.
Paul
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Heepota
Dec 4, 2008 21:34:45 GMT -4
Post by mostheman on Dec 4, 2008 21:34:45 GMT -4
Last update of the week, and a short one at that. Built the steering box brace tonight. I hope I don't have to put this on and take it off much. I never really figured how to build it easy to remove. Looks cool though. Tack Tack Natzis Lock and Load
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Dec 5, 2008 8:15:05 GMT -4
it looks like a teletubby head. paint it some ungodly color and your all set. lol
maybe a little tab off the frame side to catch the clamp bolt? its fine, but that looks easy.
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'Roach
Elite
InsurJeeper
...the man who decided to use torx on Jeeps should be beaten severely...
Posts: 1,002,222
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Post by 'Roach on Dec 5, 2008 9:24:46 GMT -4
Here's and artists conception of the suggestions so far. Speed holes are optional, but reccomended ;D
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Heepota
Dec 21, 2008 18:02:11 GMT -4
Post by mostheman on Dec 21, 2008 18:02:11 GMT -4
Been a while since the last update. Not much in the way of pictures but spent alot of time welding up the front end of the jeep. Spring perches, some gussets and steering box relocation. Cut into the front bumper to add some tow points. The tow point pass through the bumper and will be welded to the outside of the frame on each side, Nothing is welded here as I didn't feel like firing up the stick welder. The tabs are 1/4 inch plate. Is a 5/8 ths hole large enough for the appropirate size shackle or should I up size it to something like a 3/4" hole?
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justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
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Heepota
Dec 21, 2008 19:08:50 GMT -4
Post by justajeep on Dec 21, 2008 19:08:50 GMT -4
3/4 or 7/8, the 5/8 will be too small.
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Heepota
Dec 25, 2008 22:06:09 GMT -4
Post by mostheman on Dec 25, 2008 22:06:09 GMT -4
Mike and I were talking about the front tow points when he mentions that they weren't exactly overbuilt. I didn't agree with him and at the time in my hand they felt more than adequate. The more I thought about it the more I wondered if they were adequate as I would never want anyone to get a shackle in the forehead while trying to pull me out. That and a bunch of other Obligations I agreed to when I chose my profession. I threw some math at it the other night and assuming the everything else holds and the steel of the tow points fails at its weakest point......(Yield of 250MPa / Ultimate of 400MPa) I arrived at the following ***Edit: Poorly drawn sketch was for a thought process. It shows some lines of potential failure locations. The shortest distance form the hole to the outside being the most likely as its the least amount of "meat" ends up being about 14mm as built with the 1" hole as suggested by Alan)*** The result were yielding of the tow points at 9420 lbs and a complete failure at 15070 lbs. (Pencil says Yield should say Ultimate I was too lazy to correct it after I posted the pic.) Now I never added a safety factor of any sorts. Structural savy peeps what are your thoughts? The rig will prob end up weighing what? 5000 Lbs loaded with my chubby arse in it? Resulting in a factor of safety of 1.8 roughly at yield. Of course the weight of the rig has to be factored to include worst stuck conditions with suction, friction, drag and other stuff that usually just gets wrapped into a super conservative FOS. Is it enough? Discussion time.
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Hawkes
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Heepota
Dec 25, 2008 23:12:39 GMT -4
Post by Hawkes on Dec 25, 2008 23:12:39 GMT -4
Math is not my strong suit, but say the guy pulling you out of suckalicious mud has a 10000LB winch with a snatch block. Effectively 20000 LBS? Never happen? What's that you say? Your shackle isn't even rated for 20000 LBS? Tow hooks don't have that high a rating, and they seem to do fine. Why not double up on the outside of the bumper? I've had my Jeepster tied off to a tree and the winch attached to an XJ to the point of lifting the Jeepster off the ground with an 8000 LB winch on one tow hook with a snatch block. Tow hook rated at ?
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Heepota
Dec 26, 2008 10:47:23 GMT -4
Post by mostheman on Dec 26, 2008 10:47:23 GMT -4
That 9500 is where the steel starts to yield (Deform). Stepping up to a 3/8 plate you'd have yielding at 15 700 lbs......probably the way I'll go.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Heepota
Dec 26, 2008 14:43:42 GMT -4
Post by Creepy on Dec 26, 2008 14:43:42 GMT -4
I've got a few years on a 1/4" front recovery point. it hasn't deformed.
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Heepota
Dec 26, 2008 15:13:26 GMT -4
Post by mostheman on Dec 26, 2008 15:13:26 GMT -4
I've got a few years on a 1/4" front recovery point. it hasn't deformed. Thats the answer I was looking for. Thanks Jan.
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Heepota
Dec 28, 2008 21:35:04 GMT -4
Post by mostheman on Dec 28, 2008 21:35:04 GMT -4
Tossed the 1/4" recovery points and fabbed up some 3/8" ones. The yield capacity of these ones is in excess of 16 000 lbs so I'm thinking these are good. (Ultimate being around 24 000 lbs.) My welds, the frame, and everything else will be pulled to pieces before these ever fail. Having them this over built will allow for some loss of cross section if I leave a shackle in there while driving and it wears on the hole. Side view where it is welded to the frame. Front View after welding. I added a brace to the top to hide my welds. The front end is pretty much done except for clearancing the grille and finishing the sheet metal work. Then its wiring up the 4.3 and other stuff ive been putting off like rebiulding the axle, running brake and fuel lines. Shocks and shock towers...the list goes on. Also hacked the drivers side rear wheel well out to make room for tire stufe. In the long run there will be 1/8th sheet on the sides with tube fenders welded to it.
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