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Post by hillbean on Feb 8, 2012 20:22:05 GMT -4
was out working getting the rest of the VB up but ran out of acoustic sealant! F%$#CK!!! I decided to fire up my space heater for shits and giggles and mess around with the wiring.. I turned it on at 6pm.... Outside temp.. after 2 hours... not bad for only 3/4 of the shop being VB'd and the ceiling completely open. This is the little $40 heater from liquidation world, it may workout all right once i get the ceiling done, although it will take a while to warm up in there.
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Feb 8, 2012 20:25:08 GMT -4
ah dammit i can see this being a problem.... sorry, i posted from hillary's laptop because she has the blackberry software installed. im too lazy to repost.
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justajeep
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Bear River, NS
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Post by justajeep on Feb 8, 2012 20:42:03 GMT -4
I didn't even notice it was you user name!
Why not put your outlet boxes in place and run the wires into them, then you can seal up the wall without waiting for the electrician.
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Dewie
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Post by Dewie on Feb 9, 2012 7:31:08 GMT -4
I didn't even notice it was you user name! Why not put your outlet boxes in place and run the wires into them, then you can seal up the wall without waiting for the electrician. Do this... or just match white with white and black with black and hook up everything yourself... it really isn't that hard buddy.
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Feb 9, 2012 8:18:34 GMT -4
I did drill a hole last night for the drop and run the wire where i wanted it, but i am not sure which power source to hook into. on the same wall I have a receptacle, a timer box (for the exterior lights), and a light switch. I am guessing i could splice into (listen to me, with my lingo!) the receptacle since it's unswitched power right? The wire i have is 14/2 (3) wire will that be enough? I bought a 12 port power bar with 15 amp breaker in it to plug into this new receptacle as it's going to be the one used for the laptop, grinders and work lights. The existing plug is going to be used for the compressor and heater. This wiring setup is going to suck for the next couple years until we are ready to rewire the whole place, i know I am going to be blowing fuses left and right . I'll just plug another cheap power bar into the heater/compressor plug with a breaker and hopefully that will cut down on the fuse replacement.
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Feb 9, 2012 11:00:07 GMT -4
I did drill a hole last night for the drop and run the wire where i wanted it, but i am not sure which power source to hook into. on the same wall I have a receptacle, a timer box (for the exterior lights), and a light switch. I am guessing i could splice into (listen to me, with my lingo!) the receptacle since it's unswitched power right? The wire i have is 14/2 (3) wire will that be enough? I bought a 12 port power bar with 15 amp breaker in it to plug into this new receptacle as it's going to be the one used for the laptop, grinders and work lights. The existing plug is going to be used for the compressor and heater. This wiring setup is going to suck for the next couple years until we are ready to rewire the whole place, i know I am going to be blowing fuses left and right . I'll just plug another cheap power bar into the heater/compressor plug with a breaker and hopefully that will cut down on the fuse replacement. If the plug only has one 14/2 in it now you can tie into it for the new plug. You're only allowed 4 conductors in a regular box and the grounds aren't counted. So 2 - 14/2's count as 4 conductors. You likely won't be able to run the heater and compressor at the same time without tripping the breaker.
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Feb 9, 2012 11:29:57 GMT -4
hmmm I may be maxed out then. I'll get a few pictures tonight, i tried to type out an explanation of the wiring and it just wasn't making sense.
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Feb 9, 2012 12:30:30 GMT -4
hmmm I may be maxed out then. I'll get a few pictures tonight, i tried to type out an explanation of the wiring and it just wasn't making sense. There are work arounds if there are already 2 14/2's in the box, you can change the existing box to a deep box, has the same size opening but deeper in the back, you can replace the existing with a 2 gang box, and just install 2 plugs in the same box, you can pull the feed wire out of the existing box, put it in the new box (if it reaches) then feed the existing box from the new box. Pics would be good.
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Feb 9, 2012 12:32:45 GMT -4
ah dammit i can see this being a problem.... sorry, i posted from hillary's laptop because she has the blackberry software installed. im too lazy to repost. Hillary, we knew this was you all along, there's no way Brandon was going to pull all this off.
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jmurphy
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Trail Master 2 - Valley
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Post by jmurphy on Feb 9, 2012 19:15:11 GMT -4
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Feb 9, 2012 21:33:49 GMT -4
that is super handy!! thank you for showing me that!
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Feb 9, 2012 21:48:18 GMT -4
ok so here is the wiring setup.. pic 1 - this is the supply wire coming from the fuse panel in the house... it goes right into the timer. pic 2 - wiring inside of timer pic 3 - wires coming in and going out of timer lower left wire - going to receptacle lower right - main supply wire upper right - going to light switch then receptacle then two 60 watt bulbs. upper left - going to outside lights pic 4 - light switch controls 2 60 watt bulbs pic 5 - garage door outlet and one of the lights, another single run goes to the other light bulb. which source should i use? am i right in thinking i can use the receptacle under the timer box? or can i use the light switch and some how make it so it's an always on connection? without eliminating the light switch.
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Feb 9, 2012 22:10:15 GMT -4
Use the one under the timer. If I was doing it I would swap out that box for one that is made to mount to a stud. The one you have is made to mount on the surface, it's hard to drywall around and properly mount. Running the wires through the timer the way it is isn't ideal but it's okay. The new box comes with clamps to put your 2 wires in. Look for code 1504 welded, about $1.69 at Kent. Before you drywall the ceiling you're going to want to move that box down to the rafter so it points at the floor, that way the door opener cord doesn't go through the ceiling to the plug. You could use another 1504 box there.
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Feb 10, 2012 8:30:11 GMT -4
Thanks Paul! I appreciate the advice. I'll make a stop at Kent and pick a couple of those up!
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Feb 11, 2012 23:25:18 GMT -4
update!
all walls insulated and vb'd!! recepticale installed and semi wired (thank you Apesteguy) we also finished the strapping tonight and ready to insulate the ceiling!!!!!!
my girlfriends dad gave me a large roll of what looks like 8 or 10mm vb, wish I and have known about it before I spent money on my cheap 6mm.
no pictures, pretty pooped from the busy day, will try and get some pictures tomorrow.
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