Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Sept 27, 2012 21:36:09 GMT -4
What is the strongest setup for yokes on Toy axles?
The axle-side flanges are good, but the flange on the driveshaft side cracks at the top of the u-joint ears.
Noted pretty much everyone was running 1330 1310 Jeep drivelines at Crawl, even with the V8's. Using conversion joints at the axle.
What do you do with a Toy axle when using Jeep drivelines?
|
|
|
Post by chefted on Sept 30, 2012 9:12:27 GMT -4
Most Jeep drivelines are 1310, with the exception of the Rubicon. I run 1350 in the rear and 1310 in the FT. I personally prefer Companion flanges at the axel end, they take more abuse and it is harder to spit out a cup. If I were you and had a plasma table. I would get a couple of companion flanges for a for 8.8, you can get 1310,1330,1350, 1410. Then machine mating adapters and weld them to the yota flanges. On the rear of my D300, I took a regular 1310 yoke machined it down, made a flange for the 1350 CV to press fit on and welded it up. Been driving it on the street and abusing it off road for 8 years, have not even replaced a u joint. The 1310 stuff I was doing every year!!!! >:(Hope this makes sense.
|
|
kris
Wheeler
buggy
Posts: 35
|
Post by kris on Sept 30, 2012 9:44:18 GMT -4
i had a 4.3 and 38.5 tsl's on toy and i just had stock flanges never had a prob 1310 at the t-case (dana 300)
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Sept 30, 2012 19:13:02 GMT -4
Ok, thx for info. (typo on the 1330 in original post, I meant 1310) I needed to know the name 'companion flange', did not know right term. @ the D300 there is a double cardan yoke. @ the Toy elock rear, a flange. The driveline will have a double cardan joint at the t-case. The setup I can make with the parts I have right now is: 1. I have 1310 Jeep double cardan driveshafts. - could do as Ted suggested and get get 8.8 companion flange for end of driveline, and adapt to Toy axle flange. 2. I have lots of Toy drivelines with good slipyokes. The slip splines look a lot tougher than the Jeep stuff. Bigger and have a steel cover. - could combine the drivelines to have Toy slip, with a companion flange I have that fits the rear axle. And the t-case end could be the Jeep DC joint. HHmm. And thinking ahead to the front drivelines, I kinda had the same idea about using the jeep/toy to the axle. The intermediate shaft to the pillow block is already made of Jeep 1310, with a 1310 yoke for the front driveline to attach to. Could make it all 1310 with 8.8 companion flange. HHmm. But Kris didn't have an issue with the Toy companion flanges cracking the tops of the ears. I had it happen on my blue Toy, and Mudmagnet warned me about it (hence this thread, and my worry) anyone else busting up the Toy companion flanges?
|
|
|
Post by brunner on Sept 30, 2012 20:59:53 GMT -4
nope haven't busted any flanges but i try to stick with the newer 90s style stuff
|
|
|
Post by lilmonster on Sept 30, 2012 21:01:47 GMT -4
I never had any issue with them on my zuk with 185 hp going off the rev limiter all the time ;D
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Sept 30, 2012 21:03:31 GMT -4
I'm aware of the bolt pattern differences, are there differences other than that, when its older stuff?
|
|
Hawkes
Hardcore
Lurker
Posts: 5,404
|
Post by Hawkes on Sept 30, 2012 21:46:39 GMT -4
Mine are Toy axle end flanges and 1310 XJ transfer case end flanges and tube. The two mated easily because the tube diameters are close, my machinist guy turned the yokes/slip ends to fit the pipe. Since I kept bending the XJ tube in the front I had it replaced with 1/4" wall. It was hard to find the perfect size but I found a piece at metals r us. Machinist turned the inside of the tube slightly to make it fit the XJ yoke.
Of course I'm pretty easy on the Jeep, so no idea on strength.
|
|
MudMagnet
Jeeper
heckler
covering Cape Breton, one Rock at a time!!!
Posts: 1,453
|
Post by MudMagnet on Sept 30, 2012 21:59:30 GMT -4
i broke alot of toy yokes.... they would all crack around the ujoint cups and split open, i had one that the slip yoke part on the yoke cracked and then expanded enough to let the splines slip around, seen that on another toy too.
|
|
|
Post by chefted on Oct 1, 2012 7:05:52 GMT -4
The other reason I use 1350 on the rear is the ability to use thicker tubing, I have dropped my Jeep on the rear driveline on rocks and spun to get off, no issues.
|
|
'Roach
Elite
InsurJeeper
...the man who decided to use torx on Jeeps should be beaten severely...
Posts: 1,002,222
|
Post by 'Roach on Oct 1, 2012 7:32:40 GMT -4
My 2 cents: Go with what Ted said. The Toy u-joints are strong, but the yokes are the weak spot. I broke 6 in the time I had the Roach. They would spread and spit out the u-joint caps. I finally had to weld the caps to the yoke to get them to live, but makes for a rough time changing a u-joint Now, I had a toy slip yoke in the back, never had a problem there. Front was square tuding anyway, so I didn't worry about that ;D
|
|
|
Post by zukwatson on Oct 18, 2012 6:35:28 GMT -4
i rin zuk u joints up front s10 front dshaft 2" and 2x as thic as the zuk, couldnt get 2 trips with zuk u joints in the rear, with out breaking ears right off . now running 1310s in the rear, had the buggy suspended by dshafts many times holding up fine. it dosent get pamperd but am runnin an allun. engine.
|
|
|
Post by 53m38 on Oct 18, 2012 20:41:45 GMT -4
What did you decide Jan?
|
|
|
Post by mostheman on Oct 18, 2012 22:20:34 GMT -4
I have a 32 spline high angle driveline that's drilled for the 3 toy patterns on the back of the 205. How many splines is the d300? I have a spare one If your interested
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Oct 18, 2012 22:45:01 GMT -4
The D300 rear output is 27 spline. I haven't worked on the issue yet, never decided anything, except I'm probably not buying anything. lathe/plaztable/welder solution I hope.
|
|