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Post by C.B.RENEGADE on Feb 24, 2013 17:18:13 GMT -4
Had a unit bearing fail on me a few days ago. Sketchy drive back home. Never seen one this bad!  |
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Post by C.B.RENEGADE on Feb 24, 2013 17:36:27 GMT -4
Put in one I had here.  I have a rear axle seal leaking bad, and what feels like a bad bearing somewhere. Pulling the axles and putting in new seals and bearings. Taking out cross pin  pulling the c clips with my new magnet  This is the leaky seal..... looks like something off a shipwreck! lol  got the old seal off no problem, but getting the bearing out was a little harder. Had to tap it from the inside, so I welded a chunk of steel to and old tierod end I had laying around. Crude, but effective  popped it right out!  new bearing is in  and the new seal  did the other side too, just cause it was already apart  All back together back here  since i put in the lift blocks, not alot of spline engagement at the tcase  Got a longer drive shaft to make up for it.  Son of a bitch! I broke one..... and my spare has one broke off too!  doing much better for spline engagement now  |
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Feb 24, 2013 19:17:46 GMT -4
Soon be a new rig !! , that seal was gross !
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Feb 24, 2013 23:40:35 GMT -4
Gross. Find any gold bullion in the shipwreck? lol
Had to pull the diff yoke huh? you know about the crush sleeve right?
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Post by C.B.RENEGADE on Feb 25, 2013 9:22:14 GMT -4
I reused the same one that came out, put it on with the gun. Is that bad?
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Feb 25, 2013 11:27:28 GMT -4
You have to set backlash , too tight / loose , and it can ruin bearings premature gear wear
Edit I don't see a pic of the yoke off at the diff , just the t-case slip yoke , if thats it , then your fine
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Feb 25, 2013 12:15:44 GMT -4
I ran into the same thing years ago with a bearing in the rear end of a Ford Ranger. I ended up using a cut off wheel on a dremel to get it out. A machinist friend stopped by after I got it out and said a little heat would have helped. We warmed the housing with a propane torch when putting the new bearing in and I had to hold it there until it cooled. Really didn't take much heat.
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Post by C.B.RENEGADE on Feb 25, 2013 12:42:44 GMT -4
I took the pinion nut off, the washer, and the yoke. I drilled and tapped the yoke in the vise, and put it back together the same way i took it off. I put the pinion nut on with an impact gut and used the same washer. I'm guessing it's too tight then? Should I loosen the nut and snug it up with a ratchet instead? That's how I put the Toy yokes on now that I think about it.
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justajeep
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Post by justajeep on Feb 25, 2013 13:21:42 GMT -4
It's not how tight you put the nut, but how tight the preload is on the bearings. If when you turn the pinion it has a bit of drag on the bearings, but is still turns smoothly, it's fine.
Back lash is the wrong term for this, that's the amount of play between the ring gear and pinion, and you wouldn't have changed that just taking off the yoke.
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Post by C.B.RENEGADE on Feb 25, 2013 14:43:41 GMT -4
Ok, thanks for the info! I'll take the rear shaft off and see how the yoke turns.
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Feb 25, 2013 16:07:27 GMT -4
It's not how tight you put the nut, but how tight the preload is on the bearings. If when you turn the pinion it has a bit of drag on the bearings, but is still turns smoothly, it's fine. Back lash is the wrong term for this, that's the amount of play between the ring gear and pinion, and you wouldn't have changed that just taking off the yoke. Yep, backlash is set by the shims under the inner bearing.Al - if you weren't tightening on it like a maniac, it should be fine. It takes a lot of force to crush the crush sleeve. Think breaker bar with a 3' pipe. the crush sleeve sets the distance between the pinion bearings. They are tapered cone bearings, so they squish towards each other in their cones. This distance needs to be an exact amount to get the proper pinion pre-load. that is the crush sleeve's job, it is an adjustable spacer. (adjusted by force of tighening) If you overtighten it, the pinion bearing preload is TOO LOOSE, the pinion is not held firmly in the diff. It can move back and forth, and like Scott meant, the backlash will change with accell/decell and it will be loud and eventually break or wear out.So anyway - just a fair warning. If you weren't there waiting for the compressor to build up and hammering on it like crazy, its probably fine.  If the pinion has ANY radial or in/out play...you need a new crush sleeve. Or squeeze the old one longer in the vice. Its tough to do. You mentioned Toyota's - the crush sleeve is pretty big compared to D35. A common modification is to machine a solid spacer if you are running big rubber. Keeps the pinion from walking in/out. |
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justajeep
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Post by justajeep on Feb 25, 2013 17:21:41 GMT -4
The shims on the big pinion bearing do not set backlash, they set pinion depth. Changing them does affect backlash, but the backlash is set by shimming the carried side to side.
Tightening the pinion nut does not change pinion depth, the big bearing cant move. It's the small one that moves in when the sleeve is crushed, creating preload.
Over tightening doesn't leave you with loose bearings, just the opposite.
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Post by C.B.RENEGADE on Feb 25, 2013 17:31:49 GMT -4
Right on. I put it on with the gun, I didn't hammer the shit out of it, so I think it's ok.
There is no play in the pinion at all, but there is still a "bad bearing" noise in the jeep somewhere.
It was there before I took the yoke off, kinda the reason I changed the rear wheel bearings.
You said the Toy crush sleve is bigger than a D35........ I got a 8.25 eh.
I'll find the noise eventually. Same procedure for checking the front pinion bearing I assume?
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justajeep
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Post by justajeep on Feb 25, 2013 17:55:30 GMT -4
Yes, but your 30 should have shims for pre load instead of crush sleeve. If there is play, it means you need new bearings.
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Feb 25, 2013 19:52:29 GMT -4
Tightening the pinion nut does not change pinion depth, the big bearing cant move. It's the small one that moves in when the sleeve is crushed, creating preload. Over tightening doesn't leave you with loose bearings, just the opposite. cripes I balled that all up.  It's not even a D35!  Yep, backlash is set by the shims under the inner bearing. The shims on the big pinion bearing do not set backlash, they set pinion depth. Changing them does affect backlash, but the backlash is set by shimming the carried side to side. I should have said backlash spec is affected when the pinion can slop in/out. nothing to do with the pinion depth shims. Thx for correcting all that.  Had just gotten up, prob would have read it here later and be all WTF was I writing and fixed it. |
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It's not even a D35! 
Had just gotten up, prob would have read it here later and be all WTF was I writing and fixed it.