chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 18, 2016 21:23:01 GMT -4
There Was An Old Woman who swallowed a flyI think I am up to goat. I am going to stop at cow. I don't want to be a dead horse. I have the shift forks modified to clear each other, but NOW, the shift collar hits on the range fork. FFS. Tomorrow night then I will try to cut about 1/8" off the shift collar. Try. They are heat treated. TeraLow makes a 2WD low range kit, and looking at the shift fork, the pin is close to the top of the fork, but it is steel so it is thinner than the aluminum factory fork. teraflex 2 low kit teraflex.com/shop_items/528ffa7fead962f416e72ea0Their shift cam has five detents, closer together, and the ramps are steeper. So, I think I am on the right track. Pics tomorrow, or next day. Gettin a bit fed up with this T/C silliness.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 19, 2016 21:20:01 GMT -4
Well, I managed to take about 1/8" off the shift collar, with a lot of sparks. After a quick assembly, looks like everything should clear. I might have actually taken too much off the aluminum shift fork. It is hard to tell for sure as the main shaft is located fore and aft by the bearing in the tail housing, and without it, it sits too far down into the planetary. Does anyone know if the 231 cases, especially the front cases, are all the same? I think I am going to cut 2 or 3 viewing ports in an old case with a 3" hole saw, assemble everything in the case, and make sure everything lines up correctly before marking the detent notches in the new shaft. Then I can clean everything, assemble in my good case and call it done. I think I finally have a 2WD Low Range 231 T/C and it will be shifted with twin sticks. I still have to build the shifter though. Will be modifying the TJ floor shifter.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 19, 2016 21:45:34 GMT -4
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 19, 2016 22:04:50 GMT -4
4WD shift collar done. Carbide insert turned a bit black on the tip but held up well over all. A lot of very fine shavings. I could only take 0.005" or 0.010" on each pass. The collar is heat treated. The outside is hard for wear resistance, and the inside is a bit softer, which gives the part toughness. Have to get under the hardened layer with the tool bit. There were a lot of sparks during machining. Person at Rideout tools told me either lots of coolant or NO coolant with carbide inserts. Thermal shock of cold coolant hitting a hot insert can shatter them. Steel was coming off in bright orange ribbons as the steel contacted the carbide insert, and melted. Stock on left versus modified on right 1/8" shorter The silver inside the collar is a lot of extremely fine metal shavings inside the shift collar from my 04. Probably from grinding on trying to engage 4WD. The shift collar from my 04 on the left is not bad, no rounded corners, but it does look a little rougher than the older one on the right that used a synchronizer. The black pen marks is where the 4WD forks touches on the the Range fork. If needed, that is the area that would have to be ground down for clearance. Hopefully, everything will clear now. I have a brand new range fork that I may have to grind for clearance. Tomorrow is pre-assembly and test fit in an old case, then final assembly in my 04 case. Fingers crossed.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on May 20, 2016 16:54:21 GMT -4
wow! I can't see the pics from work, but that all sounds pretty interesting!
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 23, 2016 7:28:52 GMT -4
Sorry for the lack of updates. I have been busy, honest. Anyway, I now have a twin sticked 231 T/C with the option of 2WD Low Range. More pics to follow. These mods do not need a SYE to work. They will work on the stock case, stock tail housing and stock shaft. They should work on any similar styled T/C.
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badwithcomputer
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You have DC2's? You just made a new best friend.
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Post by badwithcomputer on May 26, 2016 12:29:20 GMT -4
Dang, ain't seen a thread this technical since the spring of '13!
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 27, 2016 23:14:02 GMT -4
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 27, 2016 23:31:05 GMT -4
Modified a NEW shift fork. Clearances inside T/C Detent notch viewed through port Factory shifter is sealed with an o-ring and plastic retainer that is simply snapped in place No longer need the spring to return the shift forkas it is no longer following the cam, but added a spacer to limit travel. If I had more time, I would have welded a boss below the magnet holder, and drilled an tapped it for a drain plug. This is now the lowest point in the T/C since I clocked it flat. There is not enough material there to tap without building it up with weld. Internal view of the pump. It does not appear to pump when in reverse. I went with non-hardening gasket maker. Squishes out fine. Cannot push the pickup tube into the pump AFTER assembly as per instructions as the new SYE shaft is too big and does not allow the pump to move enough to get the tube in place. Had to put the tube and pump in place BEFORE putting the tail housing in place. Non-hardening gasket maker spreads out fine. Marks from the flanged tail housing bolts show that the slots I made are covered. No water getting into the threads. Non-hardening gasket maker around output shaft as well, instead of silicone. Pipe wrench is a good way to hold output for torquing. Assembled
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 27, 2016 23:39:04 GMT -4
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 28, 2016 8:27:11 GMT -4
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 28, 2016 8:41:38 GMT -4
I don't have many pics of the long arm install. There are probably lots of info on that. Link to Rough Country Long Arm installation instructions 97-06 JEEP TJ/LJ LONG ARM UPGRADE KITFor the upper tabs on the long arm mount, the instructions just say to drill two holes and put a bolt through the frame. I enlarged the holes and welded sleeves in the frame. Much stronger this way. Ready for weld Ground flush Clean frame. Looks much better this way. Full stuff Long arm with CV shaft The drive shaft is a stock front shaft from a Jeep J10 or J20, I think it might have had a quadratrac in it. I did have to extend the arms a little bit from the measurements in the instructions to get it to fit, it was a bit long. I also tilted the pinion back down a bit to help. The pinion does not need to be pointed at the T/C when you have a CV shaft. The pinion and driveshaft should NEVER be in a perfectly straight line. A U-joint needs a little bit of an angle so the needles with rotate. Otherwise, the needles stay in the same spot on the u-joint and wear grooves in the trunnion. Trimmed T/C skid. The back bolt hole is cut off, so there is only 4 out of 6 bolts holding the skid in place, and they are only metric grade 8.8. This tells me the skid does not do much structurally for the frame, if it is safe to leave out 33% of the clamping hardware. The long arm mounts have all 6 bolts. Some exhaust goodies. V-band clamps in stainless steel
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 28, 2016 9:03:53 GMT -4
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 28, 2016 22:53:11 GMT -4
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 28, 2016 23:13:46 GMT -4
Started trimming the front fenders. Going to cut up the support at the back of the inner fender. Going to pull the inner fender back 2 inches at the bottom to match the 2 inches I cut off the back of the fender opening. And of course, cut the flares to match. Rear fenders and flares trimmed about 1 1/2 inches at the bottom, front and back. Pictures I took earlier on where the tires rub. 35 x 12.50 x 15 with a good offset rim. Rear hits at the back of the opening, and will probably be worse now with the long arms extended a bit. Still 2 1/2 inches from top of tire to top of wheel arch. Front tire straight ahead Right tire turned to the left. Turned to the right, tire hits back of inner fender And at top of wheel opening. Clears at the front This is with lowered bump stops. Lowered about 1 1/2" or 2"
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