Old Yeller
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Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
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Post by Old Yeller on Jan 27, 2010 12:32:58 GMT -4
About to start work again on the YJ, with the tub being the main focus for now. I'm thinking 20ga sheet metal, and cutting patches the same size as the hole I cut out, and grinding as flush as possible, with a little filler to make it flat. I have access to a Gas mig, with 023 wire.
I plan on doing all the welding soon, but likely the filling and finishing will wait until spring. What can I spray on it to keep it from rusting but able to work with when I start the filling process later? (Jeep is stored outside).
Thanks for any opinions.
Rob D
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'Roach
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...the man who decided to use torx on Jeeps should be beaten severely...
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Post by 'Roach on Jan 27, 2010 13:13:41 GMT -4
20ga should be fine, but I would still make them a little big, then add a flange where it makes sense. The other option would be to weld a strip behind the btt joint. Either way, a butt joint will burn thru at some point, which means you'll have to fill it, and warp the metal. Having backing metal to weld to is much easier Just my $0.02. Seems I've been doing alot of bodywork in the last few years, lol
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Old Yeller
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Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
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Post by Old Yeller on Jan 27, 2010 18:05:56 GMT -4
Hmm. So make it bigger than the hole, and pull it forward from behind would be the trick?. A little more fill, but anything that makes it easier I'm game for. I'll learn as I go for sure, my main question is what I paint it with to make it not rust before spring, and be able to do body work later. I hear straight primer absorbs moisture?
Rob D
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Post by theonlybull on Jan 27, 2010 18:16:11 GMT -4
you can buy a "steping "tool, that will make a raised pannel, so that main part will be flush when it's welded in.
pretty much have to shoot some primer and paint if it's gonna sit outside. then grind, or sandblast before body work
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'Roach
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...the man who decided to use torx on Jeeps should be beaten severely...
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Post by 'Roach on Jan 27, 2010 23:10:28 GMT -4
you can buy a "steping "tool, that will make a raised pannel, so that main part will be flush when it's welded in. pretty much have to shoot some primer and paint if it's gonna sit outside. then grind, or sandblast before body work Yep, the stepper is nice, but I just toss it in the vise, bend it 90 degrees, then move it slightly and bend it back. That will create a step about the thickness of the metal, and just tap it with a hammer to get it flush to the panel you're working
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Post by itsakeeper on Jan 28, 2010 7:06:46 GMT -4
I've got a pneumatic "flange tool" if you want to borrow it, makes about a 3/8" lip
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 28, 2010 7:36:16 GMT -4
what in christendom would you need a 3/8" lip for? that's a LOT of lip for sheet metal!
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Post by mostheman on Jan 28, 2010 7:56:32 GMT -4
I think he means a 3/8" wide step down not a 3/8" drop in step
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Post by itsakeeper on Jan 28, 2010 10:51:13 GMT -4
yep, what he said
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 28, 2010 12:17:04 GMT -4
ooooooh.... gotcha. in that case, I have one of those also, not sure what width the lip is that it makes. really nice for body work, no lie. especially if you have an air compressor that has enough air to use it. I, unfortunately do not. 16 ga. is a little heavy for those tools, if anyone is wondering.
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Old Yeller
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Its... sitting next to my garage. Poor girl.
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Post by Old Yeller on Jan 28, 2010 17:38:35 GMT -4
I may take you up on that offer next week, thanks for the offer!
Rob D
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Sandboxcowboy
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Post by Sandboxcowboy on Jan 29, 2010 16:06:58 GMT -4
PA has those flangers in electric i believe. My dad bought one last year. Butt welding is a PITA with thin sheet metal. Spray some Zinc OXide primer , get the weld through stuff, most is now i think. it will keep the nasties away for a while. If it will be exposed for long time look at some flat enamel paint that will skuff off easily when u get back at it again.
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Post by TomWood on Jan 29, 2010 22:32:47 GMT -4
Buy a weld through primer to spray on the bare metal before welding for one, then also use it on the welded section to keep it from rusting. This can also be removed easily when ready to fill and prep. Quick hit with a DA sander and it will come right off. Thats my thought anyways.
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