Sandboxcowboy
Jeeper
Oh yes, please tell me how deep that mud puddle was in beaver bank.....
Posts: 2,748
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Post by Sandboxcowboy on Feb 18, 2010 23:28:37 GMT -4
LOL NICE!!! are you goin to gusset or brace the inner "C"s to the tubes also???
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
Posts: 948
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Post by johnnybebad on Feb 22, 2010 18:10:43 GMT -4
thought about it but not going to. the bottom truss is more or less to take some of the abuse off of the knuckles, there are plenty of jeeps in the rally events and i have yet to see one bend a D30. got the front end back in. I took my tube control arms and extended them to 16 3/4 inches ( eye to eye )and fabbed up a temporary set of uppers at 16 inches. Shocks should be here this week along with my heim joint kit !! did a little trimming and removed the inner fenders , the flares are going to be only 3/4 of an inch higher than stock, I cut the lip off of the fender because it had some rust and also to gain a little tire clearance
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
Posts: 948
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Post by johnnybebad on Mar 12, 2010 21:33:35 GMT -4
got a bit done in the last few weeks...
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Post by coletrickle on Mar 14, 2010 20:06:06 GMT -4
Post some more pics. I'd like to see more of your mounts and arms on front and rear. It looks badass.
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
Posts: 948
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Post by johnnybebad on Mar 15, 2010 6:05:27 GMT -4
need to finish putting in gussets , but you get the idea. coils are the stockers from the front of the MJ. lower arms measure out at 38 inches eye to eye, uppers are 26.5 . the arms are made from schedule 80 1.5 with the nuts plug welded and on the ends, the frame ends are a cannibalized set of factory front lowers, welded along the seams . originally i was going with heims all around but thought bushings would work just as well at the frame end, and if i need to replace them ,they are easy to find . coil buckets are made from 5 inch ID pipe, welded on all sides with a plate acoss the top . putting 2 downbars from the rollbar to these points.
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dan
Jeeper
Membership Co-ord - Valley
Posts: 3,397
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Post by dan on Mar 15, 2010 6:24:00 GMT -4
that's looking pretty sweet. I can't wait to see that all finished up, it's gonna be awesome.
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
Posts: 948
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Post by johnnybebad on Mar 15, 2010 6:26:15 GMT -4
thanks ! hoping to get my rollcage tubing in this week and start bending !! then its time for the stroker build up !!!
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Post by coletrickle on Mar 15, 2010 20:49:54 GMT -4
You've done a ton of work. Looks stout.
Are you building the stroker?
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
Posts: 948
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Post by johnnybebad on Mar 16, 2010 6:59:58 GMT -4
yep i`m putting it together myself. already have a 258 crank and rods, a 4.0 HO block, new rings, bearings, and a complete gasket set. the 4.0 has low KM and no ridge in the cylinder walls so I`m going to try and get away with honing it out and keeping stock bore. i`ll have a 4.5 "poor man`s stroker" when i`m done lol
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'Roach
Elite
InsurJeeper
...the man who decided to use torx on Jeeps should be beaten severely...
Posts: 1,002,222
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Post by 'Roach on Mar 16, 2010 7:49:08 GMT -4
yep i`m putting it together myself. already have a 258 crank and rods, a 4.0 HO block, new rings, bearings, and a complete gasket set. the 4.0 has low KM and no ridge in the cylinder walls so I`m going to try and get away with honing it out and keeping stock bore. i`ll have a 4.5 "poor man`s stroker" when i`m done lol interesting. You would reuse the 4.0 pistons in this case then? Would it require -any- machining?
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
Posts: 948
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Post by johnnybebad on Mar 16, 2010 9:47:07 GMT -4
The 4.0 pistons can be reused with no mods or machining . I am planning on building a 4.7 next year when funds allow. 4.5 Low-buck simple stroker recipe
~ Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank ~ Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods ~ Jeep 4.0L 3.875" standard bore pistons 9.7:1 CR ~4.0 stock camshaft ~ Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head ~ Stock 0.051" head gasket ~ 0.081" quench height ~ Ford 24lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines ~ 250hp @ 4850rpm, 321lbft @ 3500rpm[/i]
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Post by coletrickle on Mar 17, 2010 21:11:36 GMT -4
Nice...that's a lot of torque.
Are your rear upper links sleaved at the axle end?
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
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Post by johnnybebad on Mar 18, 2010 20:02:01 GMT -4
yep, I ran out of sch 80 scraps and didn`t have enough to finish the uppers so i sleeved them with sch 40 , plug welded, then welded on the ends.
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
Posts: 948
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Post by johnnybebad on Apr 17, 2010 18:31:01 GMT -4
still need to weld in a dash bar and door bars going to the back of the cab but you get the idea. I tied the cage into the arm mounts to give them a little more strength, still need to plate them on the back sides, and there will be a 1/4 inch plate from the second crossmember to the first which will double as my battery box location. I am removing the headboard from the box and cutting out a portion of the bed so I will have access to the control arms and shocks from the top of the box . the fuel cell is going to be mounted on the remaining portion of the bed, and the headboard is going to be bolted back in with brackets and should fit between the cab and the cage perfect. welding in brackets for the racing seats and harnesses tomorrow !!
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johnnybebad
Jeeper
DRIVE it like you STOLE it
Posts: 948
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Post by johnnybebad on Apr 25, 2010 18:56:40 GMT -4
seats and harnesses are now in, cage is painted and got the drivers door welded ( and locked ) shut. cut about 3 feet out of the bed of the box and had it sitting on the truck again, looks mean...... pics to follow
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