Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Feb 6, 2009 9:20:55 GMT -4
inside/outside digi thermometer. $20 at CT. has a little sender you put outside under the eves. my heater will keep the shop at +5deg. down to -20 outside temps, (like overnite, i leave it on at 5.) and can maintain a working inside temp of 10deg down to -12 outside temps. as it is warmer outside, the heater can get it warmer inside. a deltaT of 20deg is accetable to me for what i paid, and the conveinience and ease of installation. I'm happy with it. BUT i sure could use 5 more degrees if its minus10 or below outside. not perfect, but like i said, acceptable for what i got into it. i have installed a ceiling fan, and keep it on when i am in the shop, i turn it off when i am not out there. no power bill yet. or , i dunno yet. to summarize: good heat inside (10deg) down to minus12 outside temp. (comfortable to work inside.) not comfortable to stand around talking and drinking beer. you'll get cold.
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Post by Ken McIntosh on Feb 6, 2009 9:58:22 GMT -4
I find the same thing with my 4800 watt heater so I've hooked my propane furnace back up for the standing around drinking beer times.Works excellent but uses a lot of propane even now with place insulated.Still don't have the 10 x 10 door insulated though.Had the place up to 27 deg last week with minus 25 outside(just because).
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Feb 6, 2009 10:05:28 GMT -4
yeah, I'm gonna tune up the salamander again to take the edge off in the mornings. one big blast with that will really help. the electric maintains really well, but takes a while to heat up.
i have a table of recordings down the shop covering a day's working cycle with me out there.
will post later.
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Jeepy
Jeeper
Posts: 1,216
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Post by Jeepy on Feb 6, 2009 10:18:12 GMT -4
I'm insulating a new 20x 20 addition on my garage. 6" insulated walls v.s. 4" in the old one. Had to move my forced air propane heater as it was where the doorway would go. No other good spot for it in the old bays so it will go in the new one as additional heat.
I'm going to install 6' baseboard electric and try that for heat, like to just keep the chill off. Grabbed a 4800 w construction heater too for portable heat as the old part now has no heat.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Feb 6, 2009 13:56:48 GMT -4
power bill is in. about $80 to run the overhead heater (and ceiling fan) for 5 weeks. I can deal with that, considering the bitterly cold weather, and I've been out there a lot with the unit on max for the whole day. Unit was installed Jan2/09 consumption history: The running average bill there was $75. This one was $160.
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Post by mostheman on Feb 6, 2009 13:59:15 GMT -4
No go the the weather network and get the temperatures for the respective periods and plot that out......should make for an interesting comparison.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Feb 25, 2009 1:09:06 GMT -4
so, my t-stat was getting warm and shutting off the heater while it remained cold in the shop. got it figured out and pulled it. it should not have been warming the electrical box it was in, and the wires going to the heater were warming up the armoured cable. t-stat was seeing warm box heat and shutting off overhead unit. its burned. it was rated properly. the heater is running now just on the t-stat on the side of the unit, and it will stay on until the shop is 20+. On a cold nite last week, i had a 32deg temp difference inside the shop. It is MUCH more comfortable now, and will heat up a lot faster. 1 hour and its done "preheating" the shop, and just maintaining. the bad t-stat was killing the heat output. BIG difference, and the results i was hoping for when it first got installed!!
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Post by T-Dogg on Feb 25, 2009 6:56:51 GMT -4
Good to hear Jan.
I was talking with the wholesaler on the stat issue.
We will have to disconnect the unit stat and wire into a relay thats in the unit to use a wall stat.
The load of the heater elements combined with the fan motor comiing on, causes the stat to be overloaded on one phase.
Let me know if you want me to drop in and change it.
Da Dog
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Feb 25, 2009 11:48:47 GMT -4
OK. i'll prob want a digital wall unit this time anyway, so I'll have to pay some $$. When i get a few extra $$ i'll prob take another crack at it.
so the new t-stat will only be powering the relay, thereby avoiding full electrical load thru wall t-stat? same as off-road lights i guess.
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Post by tothewall on Feb 25, 2009 11:56:20 GMT -4
I am liking my old school wall unit Jan. Seems to work fine...
NB.. New door in the garage on Friday baby!!
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Feb 25, 2009 12:00:27 GMT -4
yeah, yours works better than mine did, but its the same setup. I'd still be suspect that might give you problems at some point. It appears i was lucky my t-stat didn't catch fire.
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Post by tothewall on Feb 25, 2009 12:04:19 GMT -4
I will have TDog in to do the same upgrade that he is doing to yours... Hopefully the garage does not burn down. LOL
I dont have anything additional on the go like a fan though... Maybe that makes a difference?
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Feb 25, 2009 12:11:44 GMT -4
He was refering to the fan in the heater, not my ceiling fan. We have exact same set-up.
Well, one thing i'm not sure of, does you heater have a t-stat knob on it too? mine does.
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Post by tothewall on Feb 25, 2009 12:15:03 GMT -4
I dont believe so. I will have a look at it tonight.
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Post by T-Dogg on Feb 25, 2009 16:51:40 GMT -4
Yes it does have a seprate stat.
But the big difference is the fan size, might be 200w in the elements.It's the start load of the fan, causeing the load.
Correct relay controlls contacts for load.
Da Dog
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