bill richards
Jeeper
Millwood Marauder
mud re-freshener
Posts: 4,169
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Post by bill richards on Nov 20, 2012 19:01:33 GMT -4
I put 6/6 pitch on my roof , that was tough to shingle , mind you it was dead heat of summer , the shingles were literally melting under our feet . I stepped on the air hose a few times and almost fell I wouldn't want to be doing a 12/12 pitch at all ! 6/12? Bill
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The Garagemahal
Moderator
Build Thread King
Resident Army Ranger , Navy Seal , Super-Warrior , Ninja !!
Posts: 11,518
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Post by The Garagemahal on Nov 20, 2012 19:15:00 GMT -4
lol yes Bill 6/12
good catch
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bill richards
Jeeper
Millwood Marauder
mud re-freshener
Posts: 4,169
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Post by bill richards on Nov 20, 2012 20:29:53 GMT -4
OK...I'm no carpenter... just trying to make sense of it. 6/6 seemed like 12/12 to me! lol!
Bill
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Nov 20, 2012 20:55:19 GMT -4
6" rise for 12" run, is that how it works?
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justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
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Post by justajeep on Nov 20, 2012 21:23:10 GMT -4
6" rise for 12" run, is that how it works? Yes The steep pitch is a hard because of having to use the roof jacks, but I always found the flatter roofs are hard on the back and knees
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Post by mrfixit on Nov 20, 2012 21:47:51 GMT -4
The next shop will have a 4/12.
Another thing I'd change is the OSB. Great stuff to work with (a little heavier than plywood, but whatever) when new, but definitely manufactured for the contractor. I always heard it weathered fast, but I didn't realize just HOW fast it'd deteriorate. It's fine it you get your wrap on quickly, but if you're ever planning to build a shop alone/over a long period of time, don't use it. Go with board.
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Post by mrfixit on Mar 17, 2013 16:20:41 GMT -4
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2013 17:16:35 GMT -4
May I ask a couple of questions: What is the width of your building and what size (and spacing) are your roof rafters? I ask because I was just wondering if you really need the dwarf wall, which technically, if carrying roof load, is adding point load on your floor joists. If the roof is framed with 2"x 6" @ 16"o/c, they are good for a 11'6" clear span, 2"x 8" @ 16"o/c are good for 15'2" or 2"x 8" @ 24"o/c is 12'9" clear span which is perfect for a 24' wide building without having to use collar ties or a dwarf wall.
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Post by mrfixit on Mar 17, 2013 18:40:33 GMT -4
which is perfect for a 24' wide building without having to use collar ties or a dwarf wall. I don't think you're quite right here... Rafters are trying to push the walls outward; If you've ever seen a older building with a sagging roof peak, it's usually because the walls have moved. Rafter ties do just that - tie the rafters together so that the walls can't move outward. Code says that rafter ties can't be any LESS THAN 2/3s of the way down the rafter from the peak. That'd give me a 5ft ceiling upstairs. If I want to raise this, I need to somehow tie the rafters so the walls won't move. I'm tying them to the floor joists by running a bracket from the top plate of the outer wall to the foot of the pony wall. The pony wall itself doesn't really do much other than keeping me from tripping over the brackets. A collar tie is something different. Collar ties are at the peak; Code says they can't be MORE THAN 1/3 of the way down the rafter from the peak. Collar ties hold rafters together at the peak during heavy winds and snow loads. My building is 20'x30'. Rafters are 16"OC.
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Post by mrfixit on Mar 17, 2013 18:41:35 GMT -4
Both rafter ties and collar ties are required regardless of the rafter span.
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Post by 53m38 on Mar 17, 2013 21:51:09 GMT -4
What your describing is exactly how my trusses came. With extra bracing supporting both the rafter and collar ties.
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Post by superkev on Mar 21, 2013 21:39:20 GMT -4
I would be concearned with the 3 ply 30' 2x10 beam spanning 15' each way. To span 8' in hrm requires a 4 ply when carrying a floor system as you are. I didn't see any areas for pads prior to pouring your concrete. Is that going to span the whole way?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2013 5:59:13 GMT -4
Since the building is 20' wide and carries a floor load, a 3x 2"X 10" beam will clear span 11'-6" and a 4x 2"x 10" beam will provide a 13'-1" clear span (NBC span tables using SPF #2 lumber). I believe there were 2 pads in the original design.
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Post by mrfixit on Mar 23, 2013 9:45:49 GMT -4
There are 2 posts, approximately 10' span.
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Post by mrfixit on Mar 24, 2013 18:06:50 GMT -4
Didn't get a whole lot of time on the garage this weekend; just a little bit sunday afternoon. I was busy doing other stuff. Finished the knee walls and braces: Installed the rafter ties. Frame in another couple of windows and it'll be time for another inspection. Wish me luck.
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