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Post by backwoodsLJ on Sept 29, 2012 18:08:16 GMT -4
Just looking for someones 2 cents I guess.Have a Richmond Powertrac locker in my D30 been there two years and works good most times.Was not shimmed initially as it was new to me and fit decent.Anyway had a few quirks with it locking and unlocking while in 2wd but working good in 4wd.Took apart late last year and shimmed and fit much tighter (like one more shim and you would never get in) and work flawless on road till first full day of hard wheeling.After that day it has been banging again in 2wd when turning left only.It locks then you give it abit of left wheel and it lets go but sounds like a piece is coming off it (bang) then is good again.Turning right is never an issue?Now at times it don't lock when tackling a hill etc in 4wd but then another shot and it does?Could it be shimmed too much?Or how about thicker shims to one side and thinner to other causing it to only lock in 2wd going left and not right.When its in 4wd there is ZERO banging but not always working?  I pulled it today as I'm putting new wheel bearings on XJ and brake pads... Here's a couple pics   Here is a video showing the locker not working back in june at times it is at times it aint? The locker issues start at 1:20 min on vid.. |
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Creepy
Administrator 
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Sept 29, 2012 19:14:09 GMT -4
I can see how shimming one side could make it act funky turning one way. Less clearance between the drive plates on one side.
The popping could be the loose side, its not any tighter. So the trick 'to run it a bit tight' is only working on one side.
Assuming you don't have half busted pins, etc.
Which side has the shims in it? That will help figure it out.
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Post by backwoodsLJ on Sept 29, 2012 20:09:37 GMT -4
Yeah that's my thoughts too?I took the pic tonight and will disassemble in am.Can't remember which side got the thicker shims.But is it suppose to be shimmed as tight as possible but fit in carrier?No fillings floating around when I drained and zero chips in locker from viewing today,all teeth square etc... Will get better look in am at pins and stuff....
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Sept 29, 2012 20:32:11 GMT -4
There is a spec the gap has to be, and when it is said to 'run it tight', it means to run on the tight side of that tolerance.
Spec will be in your manual, or get it online for your model locker.
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Post by 97cherokee on Sept 29, 2012 20:35:28 GMT -4
doesn't look like the one i have the springs are different, but the shim spec on mine is 5/16 i just used a drill bit i have 2 shims on one side and 1 on the other
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Sept 29, 2012 20:36:36 GMT -4
mine is 5/16 i just used a drill bit Shadetree pin gauge, works perfect. |
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Post by backwoodsLJ on Sept 29, 2012 20:42:45 GMT -4
Bought locker used in a carrier,removed and put in mine.Had no shims when I bought but I shimmed after a few issues so may have to resort to online specs.... |
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Post by backwoodsLJ on Sept 30, 2012 15:23:25 GMT -4
Had it apart today and the locker itself looks fine.Had it shimmed both side with shims basically the same thickness.Tried to shim it a hair thicker and you just can get it back in carrier so I took the right side out and shim left only with one thicker shim?All I can do is try. Left ujoint was seized abit so gonna change that too.Read on PC that different air pressures in front tires could cause locker f-up so why not a tight joint?Anyhoo will try this and not real confident it will fix problem.Might see a e-locker or OX in future?  |
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Sept 30, 2012 16:33:20 GMT -4
Measure the friggin gap! Jeez, b'y.  Its how they are set up, there is no other way. Like really, you are ignoring the most obvious thing. Posted above - 'run it tight' means on the tight side of the gap tolernance, not 'pack shims into it till it barely fit the carrier'. Of course its not going to work right! You aren't setting it up correctly. Use a drill bit shank to measure the gap, or vernier calipers if you have some. If its not all chewed up and has good pins, it will work with the correct gap. An added note - inspect the carrier thrust bearing surface, where the side gears would ride, where you are adding shims. Those can wear and force you to add shims.....to get the right gap spec.
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Post by backwoodsLJ on Sept 30, 2012 18:20:23 GMT -4
No good to measure the gap when you don't know what its suppose to be?  Goggle lots this morning and no gap specs?Richmond site has nothing on gap? I had 2 shims in NOT TONS and they were PAPER THIN!!!!!!!!! I did'nt stack.There's not room to stack.I don't have 5/16 gap with nothing in.Its tight PERIOD.You can see the gap I got in pic before I took the TWO TINY PAPER THIN SHIMS out...... Any way its been fun I'll fiqure it out,I'm not a complete idiot.  |
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Sept 30, 2012 18:49:11 GMT -4
Ok ok, not callin ya an idiot, just joking around. I figured you would have posted a measured gap # by now. I got all night to look up specs.
It's less than 5/16? what is it exactly?
how thin is paper thin? .010? dealing with precision measurments here.
Are the cups that ride inside the locker, and rub on the crosspin in backwards? they can assemble either way on mine. tricky.
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jrm
Jeeper
Posts: 229
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Post by jrm on Sept 30, 2012 19:00:43 GMT -4
It's on the richmond site. I believe a dana 30 lockrite is a model 2210. Look under the install manuals, the specs are there.
If your differential case or thrust washers are excessively worn, your new Lock-Right
Locker may not be able to operate as it was designed. Therefore, two easy measurements
must be made before final assembly to assure that your new locker will function properly. To
make these measurements, proceed as follows:
1. Remove the existing spider gears, side gears and thrust washers from the differential case,
and thoroughly clean it.
2. Install the Lock-Right couplers with the existing thrust washers in each end of the case.
3. Place the spacers onto the centers of the couplers (wide side toward the axle splines if not
symmetrical), and hold them there.
4. Install the pinion shaft; carefully guide it past the spacers as it is being inserted through the holes in the case.
5. Measure the gap between each spacer and the pinion shaft with a feeler gauge. This gap should be between .005-inch and .020-inch, with not
more than a .008-inch difference between the two.
If your numbers are within the limits specified, remove the parts and begin your installation. If your numbers are not within these limits,
check the thrust washers and the differential case. If they are excessively worn or are damaged, they may need to be replaced before installing
your new Lock-Right Locker
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Post by 97cherokee on Sept 30, 2012 19:01:05 GMT -4
The gap spec on mine is 5/16 also a d30 Richmond the cup should be the lip riding on the out side gear and flater part should ride Against the cross pin
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Post by backwoodsLJ on Sept 30, 2012 19:07:32 GMT -4
Almost positive the cups are on right side.Every time Ive disassembled I've kept the 2 half's separate in order not to mix... Don't have a measuring devise.Wish I did,always looking at them but never bought.Kicking my ass at the moment on that one!  Put the locker back in and diff cover is on this afternoon so? |
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jrm
Jeeper
Posts: 229
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Post by jrm on Sept 30, 2012 19:11:24 GMT -4
It looks like in the manual it is 5/32" not 5 /16". That is a big difference. A set of feeler gauges would work best if you have them.
As an additional check to be sure that everything has been
installed correctly, use a small ruler, vernier caliper or bladetype
feeler gauge. The distance between the halves of the
LOCK-RIGHT, that is, between the two drivers, should be
about 5/32-inch (.152-inch, or 3,86-mm). The tolerance limits
are between .145-inch (3,68-mm) and .170-inch (4.32-mm). If
this distance is much over .170-inch, either the case is quite
worn or the thrust washers are missing or are too thin and the
problem should be corrected before proceeding further.
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Its how they are set up, there is no other way. Like really, you are ignoring the most obvious thing. 
Goggle lots this morning and no gap specs?Richmond site has nothing on gap? I had 2 shims in NOT TONS and they were PAPER THIN!!!!!!!!! I did'nt stack.There's not room to stack.I don't have 5/16 gap with nothing in.Its tight PERIOD.You can see the gap I got in pic before I took the TWO TINY PAPER THIN SHIMS out...... Any way its been fun I'll fiqure it out,I'm not a complete idiot. 
