|
Post by Mickey on Dec 10, 2006 19:32:27 GMT -4
Anyone would know where I can get some information and required parts, to convert an AC compressor to air compressor.
Mickey
|
|
justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
|
Post by justajeep on Dec 10, 2006 19:35:21 GMT -4
Should be some links in the best tech thread, or ask Bill (itsakeeper), he did it.
|
|
|
Post by HardKorTJ on Dec 10, 2006 19:53:49 GMT -4
a buddy of mine has his truck over here today, and hes got an OBA set up, and the only thing i seen was the tank in the back, and the comperssor, it was a york, but thats all i seen
|
|
Trever
Jeeper
Back in Black!
Posts: 2,228
|
Post by Trever on Dec 10, 2006 20:03:30 GMT -4
Very cool idea! Compressor oil may have to be changed due to the fact that AC systems are sealed from ambient (atmospheric) conditions! The Oil in the compressor works with type of Refrigerant that was used in the system! Generally R-12 or R134A for automotive applications. These oils when subjected to Moisture (which is in air) will react with the oil and create an acidic condition which will break down components in the compressor and drop the compressors compression ratio which eventually will be low enough that the compressor will not be able to pump. Make sure you find out what oil is being used now in the compressor. Usually on the tag under hood will illustrate which refrigerant and oil was used. Sometimes stamped on the compressor aswell.
I would emagine that you also plan on having a tank on board! You are going to need pressure switches of some type (Probably like you would find on and air compressor) to cycle the compressor clutches on when the tank pressure drops below a pre-determind setpoint also a pressure switch to shut the compessor off so you dont over pressurize the tank! This switch will be there mainly as a safety! You dont need 150 psi to pump up a tire that only requires 30 psi. There are already pressure switches that control the compressor but once again they are for controlling the compressor as a Air-conditioning application.
Dont know if im repeating anything you already know but these are some of the things that I first thought about when I read your Thread.
Good luck
|
|
Enos
Hardcore
Founding Member
Posts: 8,513
|
Post by Enos on Dec 10, 2006 20:23:31 GMT -4
|
|
justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
|
Post by justajeep on Dec 10, 2006 20:26:33 GMT -4
I assume he was talking about the stock sanden pump on newer Jeeps. They need a pre-oiler and then a separator for the compressed air. I've had a York compressor on my CJ for a few years now. They are simple to do. Compressor oil in the base just like your shop compressor. I've got an old diving tank under my seat, pressure switch, and lots of air volume.
|
|
Grizzly
Jeeper
Formerly TrailTreader II.....now Jeep named by my kids
Posts: 2,493
|
Post by Grizzly on Dec 10, 2006 21:52:05 GMT -4
I'm just curious on the rough cost (including tank and all hardware) to convert a stock AC system in my XJ to a OBA...seeing as how we're on this subject.
|
|
eric
Jeeper
Posts: 87
|
Post by eric on Dec 10, 2006 22:32:20 GMT -4
I have a regular AC compressor and I put ome oil in the intake once in a will I use it only to inflate my tire and it work very good. I don't have any tank or pressure switch. It took me out of the wood a few time. cheap.
|
|
Jeepy
Jeeper
Posts: 1,216
|
Post by Jeepy on Dec 10, 2006 23:35:34 GMT -4
I have a york with a tank, i use it a lot. I used it the other day to undercoat a couple vehicles. Sounds like going with a york would be easier than modifying a Sanden. Total cost for me was probably $200-250.
|
|
Bobbyxj
Jeeper
"60% of the time it works every time"
Posts: 723
|
Post by Bobbyxj on Dec 11, 2006 13:12:37 GMT -4
I used a sanden a couple of years ago on my old yj, worked ok but the cost did get up there around 250 ish, run air tools no prob,
I used
pre oiler separator compressor clutch switch, pressure controlled same as shop compressor 5 gal tank from air brake system regulator on the out put of tank
other than that it was air lines and a little bit of wiring
the thing that gave me most problems was adapting the metric compressor lines to standard copper lines.
long and short is for me done it that way worked ok, this time going with a power inverter and a small shop compressor. The power inverter is going to be way more useful then just a way to run the compressor tho'
power tools welders general appliances(camping/fishing)
Oh yea I plan on using a 5k inverter to make this all possible.
not trying to change anyones mind "JUST LOOK AT THE POSSIBILITIES"
|
|
|
Post by itsakeeper on Dec 11, 2006 18:11:10 GMT -4
parts needed: pre-oiler before compressor* pre-airfilter before compressor* oil filter after compressor* tank# pressure regulator# pressure switch# various lines and fittings things to be removed: disconnect switches and temp. feeds from compressor you will use the existing connection for your on/off switch lines to and from compressor evaporator and lines condensor and lines plug lines into heater/air-conditioning unit OR remove unit entirely I plugged mine off as I didn't want to remove the dash from above "*" came from work, I bought a bunch of fittings and I probably have some left over don't buy PA filters or lubricators; they will fail, ask me or Big6 also above "#" all came from a cheap ($80) air compressor I bought at Kent's, I also got 50' of air hose, an air nailer and I used some of the lines on the compressor as well. If you go this route make sure the pressure switch and regulator are separate from the motor/compressor unit or you won't be able to use it. Left over from the air compressor is of course the motor and copmressor itself - still in the basement and probably useless. Any questions give me a call or pm The PA filter in the pictures leaked, replaced with another and it leaked and them I bought one from work. The filters and oilers are about $30-40 depending on what size ports you want, 1/4" or 3/8", and larger bodies are also available.
|
|