chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Aug 27, 2007 11:54:51 GMT -4
If you run a manual valve body in an auto, you can have the best of both worlds. 100% control over the gear you want, and no missed shifts or mud in the clutch. I think this is possible with the AW4? Correct? Just wiring for the tranny computer?
I have a 700R4 in my truck, which has a lockup torque converter. I am thinking that if I put a manual valve body in it, and a manual switch for the lockup, I can have engine braking in first gear for those downhills. Does the AW4 have a lockup converter, and is it possible to do this with it?
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Aug 22, 2007 6:52:30 GMT -4
My vote is to check the coil.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Aug 14, 2007 20:14:04 GMT -4
Is a 93 YJ carbed or fuel injected?
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Jun 5, 2007 6:32:09 GMT -4
I think the dealer in Moncton wanted $14 each when I was living in NB. I went to a bolt supplier and got some 6 point bolts for around $2 each. The grade is on the end of the factory bolts, I forget if it is 10.9 or 12.9 I bought a complete spare set and IF I can find them tonight, I will measure them. But any bolt supply store should have them. They are about a 12 mm bolt, maybe 95 mm long. OH, but these were for an 87 XJ, just noticed you have a TJ. Anyone know if the bolts are the same. OOPS. Wayne
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on May 15, 2007 20:53:52 GMT -4
nightmare over for now. thanks for your replies. The nightmare will never be over ! ! ! ! WOOO HA HA HA HA. It has just begun. Ask me how I know.
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chevystroker
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NEVER CONFUSE HAVING A CAREER WITH HAVING A LIFE ! ! ! ! ! !
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Post by chevystroker on May 14, 2007 6:39:26 GMT -4
No check engine light on , and it works , it comes on at least twice a week for a trannie shifting prob I have , overdrive doesn't work pull over shut it off start it up od works I realize that this problem isn't the reason for this thread. And this is just a guess, but I bet you have a solenoid in the transmission that is sticking.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Apr 28, 2007 7:27:36 GMT -4
This is why I like greasable u-joints. My truck is basically undercoated everywhere there is a u-joint. I have never had a u-joint go like that.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Apr 2, 2007 15:53:02 GMT -4
What Chad said above. Really good answer.
Remember too Greg that when you put on bigger tires, not only does your speedometer read lower, so does your odometer !!!! You have to compensate for changes in gearing and tire size before you calculate your mileage. I think it is a simple ratio of diameters to compensate for different tire sizes and you add or subtract a percentage of your actual mileage on the odometer.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Mar 14, 2007 11:48:46 GMT -4
Someone more knowledgeable on bolts can correct me if I am wrong, but factory bolts do not always follow convention for markings. A manufacturere will order what it needs from a bolt supplier to a certain spec and may not mark them. Metric bolts use numbers to give a relative grade, and imperial use marks. I don't know what a Metric bolt with 3 marks would mean.
I suppose I could 'Google' it. ;D
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Mar 12, 2007 6:26:44 GMT -4
4) Some cherokees came with a Dana 44 rear, so it would be a direct bolt in if you are lucky enough to find one.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Feb 16, 2007 13:07:51 GMT -4
PA does have relatively cheap gas shocks for sale, and the struts for an XJ hatch would work, but they are made to lift a lot more weight, so you have to make sure the struts aren't too strong so they bend the hood. The trick too is to mount them so they go over centre just before the hood closes so it will pull the hood down, and keep it from rattling. There are two different ways to mount them depending on the room under the hood. They can be attached on the hood close to the hinge and the other end along the fender, or close to the hinge on the fender side, and closer to the front of the hood. Take a look at an xj rear hatch to see how that is done. A lot of the struts attach to a ball socket, so would be easy to unhook to flip the hood back. Does any of that make sense?
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Feb 13, 2007 20:53:14 GMT -4
Knock sensor, O2 sensor, and EGR valve or circuit are the first things that come to mind. Have you checked for codes? Tightening a knock sensor up more can make them more sensitive. Has it ever been out for any reason or changed? A carboned up EGR valve that is leaking by can lean out the fuel mixture and cause spark knock, but also a rough idle, or stalling. Bad O2 sensor allowing the mixture to go lean. What colour were the plugs you took out? Just throwing out ideas for people to pick apart to see if it leads anywhere or at least helps. I agree with a copout by the dealer. Something changed. Wayne
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Feb 6, 2007 12:47:07 GMT -4
If it is a half door with no top, an outside latch isn't really needed. Just reach in over the door, and fabricate a spring loaded pin with a handle. I have two extra CJ doors that are quite rusty that I was going to cut down into half doors, but Aluminum would be much lighter. And I think my Dad has some 1/8 Aluminum I might be able to talk him out of. Hhmmmmmm. Now you got me thinkin, damnit.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Feb 5, 2007 21:38:49 GMT -4
nope! not sure where those went. You sold those to me last year about this time of the year didn't you? I know I got a set from you if they are the same ones.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Jan 26, 2007 7:34:40 GMT -4
nice set up! wonder is you should us a different master cyl for increase in volume of fluid. switching for wheel cyl. to calipers or keep an eye on it as pads wear and top it up Wheel cylinders move more than calipers during brake application, so more fluid is used then. But Calipers are usually bigger, so will use more fluid overall as the pads wear.
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