chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Jan 25, 2007 22:03:30 GMT -4
Okay, so let's see the link. Don't keep us in suspense. ;D
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chevystroker
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U-bolts
Jan 25, 2007 17:43:25 GMT -4
Post by chevystroker on Jan 25, 2007 17:43:25 GMT -4
Are you actually asking on this forum for someone to 'tell you where to go' ?? ;D
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chevystroker
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8.8 id
Jan 22, 2007 16:41:36 GMT -4
Post by chevystroker on Jan 22, 2007 16:41:36 GMT -4
Measure the width from wheel to wheel. A full size will be around 67 inches roughly. Ranger would be 4 or 5 inches narrower I would guess. What is the bolt pattern? Full size would be 5 x 5.5 right? Ranger is 5 x 4.5?
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Dec 7, 2006 14:32:22 GMT -4
Are there any large solenoids or relays on the engine that are controlled by the computer? Throttle stop, A/C clutch, anything with an electromagnetic type coil? And are there any diodes listed in the wiring diagram? The instructor I had for a F.I. course said he was trouble shooting a ford car that would shut off for no reason, but only with the A/C on. Turns out that the A/C clutch acts like a large ignition coil, and sends a voltage spike down the wire when it is disengaged. This will shut down the computer. Ford put what is called a declamping diode in the wiring harness to prevent the spike from reaching the computer, and this diode was bad on the car. Took him over a week to find it he said. It may not be the same thing here, but what is on or connected to the backup switch circuit? All relays have a small coil inside them, but most of them draw very little current, so it would have to be a big one. Again, just throwing out some ideas. And I know just how frustrating an intermittant problem is.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Dec 7, 2006 7:31:32 GMT -4
Should read "What SHE said. OOPS. Sorry 'bout that. My excuse is it was late and I was tired. ;D Wayne
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Dec 6, 2006 22:09:47 GMT -4
If using wipers etc is cutting ignition voltage maybe there is a wire or someting shorting in the colum or dash. Wipers and blower have nothing to do with the computer, so if there is a short Id look out side the PCM. You should try getting a wiring diagram and look for and common points of intersection. Best of luck, Kim What he said above. I know manufacturers are integrating more and more stuff into the computer, but checking out a wiring diagram should be the first thing to check to see what is tied into what. If your headlights work, then you must have power to that circuit. But if you turn the key and nothing, then bad connection, or something is going to ground when you turn the key, or you have a bad relay? Has there ever been any electrical work done under the hood? Does it stall only in reverse, or in any gear. If only reverse, then backup lights are coming on and it may be as 90limited said above. If in all gears, then maybe neutral safety switch. Does sound like an electrical gremlin, not computer, though if voltage to the computer drops below a certain amount due to a short elsewhere in the power supply, then the computer will shut down. Aaahhhhh, the wonderful world of Chrysler wiring. Wayne
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Dec 6, 2006 21:55:07 GMT -4
I have no idea on the Non-HO vs the HO, but I'm guessing it would cause problems. Mine sputters and almost dies then surges, since I swapped to the 92 HO one - error codes say the ballast resistor is gone, but, as I said, 94s don't have one. Makes driving in traffic a real nightmare. Hate to hijack a thread. This is the first time, really. But couldn't you add a ballast resistor back in to make the computer happy? Obviously, comparing wiring diagrams to see if it was possible would be the first thing to do. Just a thought. Wayne
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Nov 29, 2006 16:08:13 GMT -4
so change the carrier and side gears to go with the 29 spline axles. Compare the side gears, maybe you only have to change them and not the whole carrier. I don't know any about these axles, but you'd be suprised at how much axle stuff is interchangeable.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Mar 3, 2008 21:45:56 GMT -4
I found a company online that sells adapter plates and transmissions, AND has an entire webpage dedicated to speedometer calibration. www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm Part way down the page is this neat little unit. Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA)
Now You Have the Solution to Your Speedometer Problems.....
For 700R4, 4L60E and others with electronic speedometers.
#69. Any change in a vehicle's tire size or rear axle ratio will cause the speedometer reading to be inaccurate. The Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA) is designed to correct this problem. With the ERA, you simply hook up four wires, set the DIP switches according to the calibration table included with your order, and you are ready to go.
What does the Electronic Ratio Adapter do?
The automotive industry has a great variety of part sizes, types, shapes and descriptions, but regardless of make, model or year, a few things are standard. One of those standards has been the number of revolutions a speedometer cable will make for each mile traveled. Nowadays, electronic pulses have replaced the rotating cable, but the same principle applies. The Pulse Ratio (the number of pulses per mile traveled) remains the same, regardless of speed, since the same distance is traveled and the same number of pulses have occurred each mile no matter what the speed was during that mile.
However, this Pulse Ratio can be made to vary from the true when modifications are made which change the number of electronic pulses per mile on a particular vehicle. This is most commonly caused by changing the tire size (increasing the outside diameter of the tires will cause the tire to travel further before making a complete revolution), but other modifications could have the same result. When the Pulse Ratio is thrown off, the speedometer/odometer will be inaccurate and corrections must be made.
This relative difference between true speed and the speed indicated on the speedometer is called the Variance Ratio, and it is corrected using the Electronic Ratio Adapter. Cost $169.00 Just below that one is an adapter to turn an electrical output from a transmission into a mechanical one to drive an older type spedometer. The company is PATC at www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm So, there are options out there to correct your speedometer. Wayne
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Mar 10, 2008 20:03:39 GMT -4
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Feb 6, 2008 7:49:58 GMT -4
How much power did the intercooler add? Out of the three things you mentioned you changed, which gave the most power?
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Nov 6, 2007 18:24:23 GMT -4
A friend of mine told me that some Cadillac Alternators produce AC current as well as 12 volt DC. But I forget what voltage or frequency. Anyone out there work on Caddys that can confirm this, or is better at doing google searches?
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Aug 30, 2007 7:04:29 GMT -4
I wonder where a 1978 Chev 4x4 would fit in that list? It may be hard on gas, but it is ALL steel, and easy to recycle. In fact, mother nature is working on recycling it back into its natural state as we type: iron oxide. ;D I bet there are a few jeeps on this board half way to being recycled right now. hehe Good find Bill. I like different points of view. When everyone gets focused on only one thing, such as fuel economy, they can lose sight of the big picture. Such as the overall effect of all of those plastics and petrochemicals in new cars on the environment. Bravo. Are you actually going to read all 458 pages?
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Jul 3, 2007 21:31:41 GMT -4
Hi all. I will be travelling to NB, sackville area, on Thursday July 5th after work with a truck and trailer, mostly empty and returning the weekend of July 13, 14 or 15, but mostly full on the return trip. Might be a quick trip to Saint John in there at some point in the week, but not sure yet.
Does anyone need anything delivered one way or the other?
My cell is 902-499-9334, and the number in NB will be 506-538-7487.
Wayne
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Jun 29, 2007 19:45:27 GMT -4
The sticker is removed when you enter the bay, and you do pay regardless what sticker you get. If you choose not to return to that inspection station you will pay again, if you choose to return to the same place your fee is already paid. That sounds much more sensible and logical than whatever I was trying to say. That sounds about right. I think it is time for my nap now.
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