Post by liltoy on Oct 11, 2005 19:46:53 GMT -4
I posted this exact post on other boards a month and a half ago but thought might not be welcome on here. Then I read this quote, so heres my story.
Well I decided last year to buy a Toyota. Had done the sports car thing, the dirt bike thing, snowmobile, ATC, Raced a lil drag on bikes(for fun only), raced at AMP road course for a few years and had rode on street for years. So was time to try something new, choices were muscle car, or 4x4. Always wanted a Yota so traded the Celica for one. 84 Xtra cab with US box (smooth sides) 3"BL(what did I know?!) and 33's. The power was,,, what power?! Honestly the slowest vehicle I have ever owned. I had read and thought about a V8 swap before I even got the truck.
Once the head gasket went it was decided to do a swap. I just couldn't justify to myself to work on a motor I didn't even like. I had to wait a while due to a broken hand so I kept driving it. The morning routine check oil and water before starting was no fun but got me through. The wheel bearing let go and took out the knuckle bearings with it and blew a rear wheel cyl trying to get it stoped in a hurry. So it was parked at the apt. It sat for a while, was stolen found and returned unharmed. Then it sat and waited while I searched for a new drivetrain. I did the wheel bearings and knuckle bearings right away. The build was for more power and drivability as a DD/weekend warrior.
Found my donor after much serching for something I liked and within price range. Bought a rolling chasis from an 80 Jimmy. 350 4bbl SM465, Np205, 10bolt and 12 bolt, ehaust and drive shaft on the frame. Looing like any 80's era metal would in NS. Time for built not bought session, trying to buy as least amount of bolt on bits as possible. Mind you some parts you should buy new ie dist, plugs, fluids, wires, brakes etc.
That meant was time to pull the 22r right? Yup so I thought till a few tings in life slowed me down. Everytime I would plan to pull the motor something would come up, sick, hoist MIA, death in family, friends in need etc. The biggest problem is the truck is a half hour away from me and I work odd hours. Finally the time came, my best friend Tom showed up and has shown up damn near every week from first bolt till this week 6 months later (and no not done yet, sadly, frustating, annoying). Came out quicker and easier than we thought it would. Grinder and BFH helped alot
Have had a few headaches along the way, getting to be less now but still frustrating. Sometimes it's the small things that get you worked up the most or for me anyways. Not a patient person by nature when working on things.
It was aparent from the second the motor rested in the truck that the stock springs weren't going to do the job. Also there was some clearance issues between the front axle and the headers. Hmm where to get some cheap springs that give some lift and will hold the weight up? Some measureing of other stock spring in other vehicles lead me right back to my donor chasis. Stock lenth of the yota was 44" and the Jimmy had 52" laying flat even unbolted. Starting doing some math and thinking I came with about 5" of lift out them re-arched to 44" and a new drop hanger to accomadate the 3/4" difference in the widths. I was concerned they may be too stiff for even mall cruising, but decided to try it. Could always take out a spring to make em softer if needed.
before:
after:
Toy vs re-arched GMC;
Did the 63" chevies in the rear swap to make it sit level and they are known for flex. Had a rear DS made up to mate the 205 to the toy rear end. Made a square DS for the front using an 83 CV and an adapter I made for the 205. Don't mind the TC mount and crossmember in the pics I'm going to build a new one sooner or later. Still tossing around the idea of doing a 203 doubler so when I design the crossmember I will design it to run this and be ready for the doubler if possible. Of course gonna twin stick the 205 then to. All kinds of big ideas but at this point I want to get it moving first.
Adapter may be rebuilt in a thinner form.
Hows this for some driveline angle? One of the reaons I'm thinking of thining the adapter and or going doubler, plus I like the idea of 107:1 reduction.
Didn't like the idea of a dropped draglink arm, seemed weak and scary to me. So I searched high and low for a feasable aka cheap way of doing cross over. Low and behold of all the internet I got the best idea right here on this board. Thanks to mudmagnet I have my crossover steering. He posted his he built on a Yota axle and I liked it. Cheap strong and best yet all stock toy pieces. Two pass side knuckles welded together, top one upside down.
At this point it drives but still has a little ways o go before for it's drive able. Has some serious rust issues I need to take care of. I swear you could almost watch it rust while being parked, what once was a small hole has eaten up one whole die of the truck. Still trying to come up with a good solid way to remove the rockers and still pass inspection. Best idea in my head at this point is thnik was rectangle tube.
Likes to throw the alt belt at High rpms, think the crank and water pump pulleys may need to be torqued down better as they have some run out. Before I go to work on it again I need to find out what the torque is on them as I can't find it in the manual.
Still have to get e-brake cables made up. Going to run seperate ebrakes for each wheel in an attempt to control where the power gets put down throught the open diff. Eventually I want to get a slectable locker possibly an e-locker from a TRD Tacoma or similar.
Need to add one more fan to the front of the rad to help keep cool.
Then do all the tidy up of wires, finishing touches and we'll be road and trail bound.
I would have to say there is only one thing that has gotten me this far with out giving up, my best friend Tom. He has been there since the first turn of a wrench, with out him I think I would have gotten frustrated and given up by now. Once we are done my truck we start on one of his. He bought a Ranger to DD/light trail use during my build. He didn't want to off road his F150 as the value is too high on it, and liked the Ranger for better gas milage. Has had NO luck in selling the F150 with these gas prices. His will be easy, 3" BL at most and 31's. Thats all he says he wants, I give him time and that will change.
Alot of things learned on this build.Biggest lesson learned, have the right tools for the job. Not having a welder slowed things down ALOT.
Sorry no pics of the whole truck till it's done. Then I will show the finished product and the building pics.
Any advice, tips or feed back you want to pass along to this backyard mechanic would be great.
Hope you all enjoyed reading. And I know it's not a crawler but give it time and we'll see what she becomes.
Tim
Added Oct 11; Couple issues sloved now, alt works fine and 3/4 the way through fixing my rust issues on the cab. Got a rough quote on cables just need to design them now.
jstasn said:
Here in the wizards section, we like to see any good 4x4 related fabrication. When your building custom stuff, ideas can come from anywhere.Well I decided last year to buy a Toyota. Had done the sports car thing, the dirt bike thing, snowmobile, ATC, Raced a lil drag on bikes(for fun only), raced at AMP road course for a few years and had rode on street for years. So was time to try something new, choices were muscle car, or 4x4. Always wanted a Yota so traded the Celica for one. 84 Xtra cab with US box (smooth sides) 3"BL(what did I know?!) and 33's. The power was,,, what power?! Honestly the slowest vehicle I have ever owned. I had read and thought about a V8 swap before I even got the truck.
Once the head gasket went it was decided to do a swap. I just couldn't justify to myself to work on a motor I didn't even like. I had to wait a while due to a broken hand so I kept driving it. The morning routine check oil and water before starting was no fun but got me through. The wheel bearing let go and took out the knuckle bearings with it and blew a rear wheel cyl trying to get it stoped in a hurry. So it was parked at the apt. It sat for a while, was stolen found and returned unharmed. Then it sat and waited while I searched for a new drivetrain. I did the wheel bearings and knuckle bearings right away. The build was for more power and drivability as a DD/weekend warrior.
Found my donor after much serching for something I liked and within price range. Bought a rolling chasis from an 80 Jimmy. 350 4bbl SM465, Np205, 10bolt and 12 bolt, ehaust and drive shaft on the frame. Looing like any 80's era metal would in NS. Time for built not bought session, trying to buy as least amount of bolt on bits as possible. Mind you some parts you should buy new ie dist, plugs, fluids, wires, brakes etc.
That meant was time to pull the 22r right? Yup so I thought till a few tings in life slowed me down. Everytime I would plan to pull the motor something would come up, sick, hoist MIA, death in family, friends in need etc. The biggest problem is the truck is a half hour away from me and I work odd hours. Finally the time came, my best friend Tom showed up and has shown up damn near every week from first bolt till this week 6 months later (and no not done yet, sadly, frustating, annoying). Came out quicker and easier than we thought it would. Grinder and BFH helped alot
Have had a few headaches along the way, getting to be less now but still frustrating. Sometimes it's the small things that get you worked up the most or for me anyways. Not a patient person by nature when working on things.
It was aparent from the second the motor rested in the truck that the stock springs weren't going to do the job. Also there was some clearance issues between the front axle and the headers. Hmm where to get some cheap springs that give some lift and will hold the weight up? Some measureing of other stock spring in other vehicles lead me right back to my donor chasis. Stock lenth of the yota was 44" and the Jimmy had 52" laying flat even unbolted. Starting doing some math and thinking I came with about 5" of lift out them re-arched to 44" and a new drop hanger to accomadate the 3/4" difference in the widths. I was concerned they may be too stiff for even mall cruising, but decided to try it. Could always take out a spring to make em softer if needed.
before:
after:
Toy vs re-arched GMC;
Did the 63" chevies in the rear swap to make it sit level and they are known for flex. Had a rear DS made up to mate the 205 to the toy rear end. Made a square DS for the front using an 83 CV and an adapter I made for the 205. Don't mind the TC mount and crossmember in the pics I'm going to build a new one sooner or later. Still tossing around the idea of doing a 203 doubler so when I design the crossmember I will design it to run this and be ready for the doubler if possible. Of course gonna twin stick the 205 then to. All kinds of big ideas but at this point I want to get it moving first.
Adapter may be rebuilt in a thinner form.
Hows this for some driveline angle? One of the reaons I'm thinking of thining the adapter and or going doubler, plus I like the idea of 107:1 reduction.
Didn't like the idea of a dropped draglink arm, seemed weak and scary to me. So I searched high and low for a feasable aka cheap way of doing cross over. Low and behold of all the internet I got the best idea right here on this board. Thanks to mudmagnet I have my crossover steering. He posted his he built on a Yota axle and I liked it. Cheap strong and best yet all stock toy pieces. Two pass side knuckles welded together, top one upside down.
At this point it drives but still has a little ways o go before for it's drive able. Has some serious rust issues I need to take care of. I swear you could almost watch it rust while being parked, what once was a small hole has eaten up one whole die of the truck. Still trying to come up with a good solid way to remove the rockers and still pass inspection. Best idea in my head at this point is thnik was rectangle tube.
Likes to throw the alt belt at High rpms, think the crank and water pump pulleys may need to be torqued down better as they have some run out. Before I go to work on it again I need to find out what the torque is on them as I can't find it in the manual.
Still have to get e-brake cables made up. Going to run seperate ebrakes for each wheel in an attempt to control where the power gets put down throught the open diff. Eventually I want to get a slectable locker possibly an e-locker from a TRD Tacoma or similar.
Need to add one more fan to the front of the rad to help keep cool.
Then do all the tidy up of wires, finishing touches and we'll be road and trail bound.
I would have to say there is only one thing that has gotten me this far with out giving up, my best friend Tom. He has been there since the first turn of a wrench, with out him I think I would have gotten frustrated and given up by now. Once we are done my truck we start on one of his. He bought a Ranger to DD/light trail use during my build. He didn't want to off road his F150 as the value is too high on it, and liked the Ranger for better gas milage. Has had NO luck in selling the F150 with these gas prices. His will be easy, 3" BL at most and 31's. Thats all he says he wants, I give him time and that will change.
Alot of things learned on this build.Biggest lesson learned, have the right tools for the job. Not having a welder slowed things down ALOT.
Sorry no pics of the whole truck till it's done. Then I will show the finished product and the building pics.
Any advice, tips or feed back you want to pass along to this backyard mechanic would be great.
Hope you all enjoyed reading. And I know it's not a crawler but give it time and we'll see what she becomes.
Tim
Added Oct 11; Couple issues sloved now, alt works fine and 3/4 the way through fixing my rust issues on the cab. Got a rough quote on cables just need to design them now.
lol