Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Jan 29, 2014 20:38:31 GMT -4
The single one on the LJ is really good for backing up, I figure they will work great unless speeding down a highway, which I won't be doing. lol Haven't had it outside yet.
Thx for the lights, the front placement comments aren't a complaint against the lights, just don't like the 'look' of the position, but its the best spot for now. just being anal.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Feb 1, 2014 19:39:48 GMT -4
just fished 1/2 a broken shift fork out of the reduction box. pooberries!
It was whirring the other day, but stays in gear. its in hi. Will have to pull interior - seats, floor, auto shifter, part of the dash. pull reduction box and t-case and take apart on bench.
Will prob lower the rear driveline mount about 2" (bad early design that got built over) and get some painting done at same time.
Not sure when I'll start. might get a 24 and some monkeys to rip 'er apart some Sat. nite.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Feb 8, 2014 6:14:11 GMT -4
some recent pickin' and doo-dads. Towpoints for dragging 4door JK's thru the Curse. lol. I had none, it was lame. Cut them from 1/2" on the plasma table. Got a great deal on a CB from Blueguy in NB who was parting out his built TJ, Chefted brought it down to Cape Breton for me at Xmas. It included a seperate SWR meter that I thought was part of the CB, nice bonus for what I paid. Thx again. Mounted it up under the roof way forward, so its out of the way and waterproof. Forward facing speaker should work good there too. Bought one of those antenna springs so I'm not killing the antenna driving in/out of the garage. Traction on Akerley $25 Better pic of the antenna position and the new rear lights. Reduction box has been whirring, and leaking since day one. It had no fluid in it, but I'd drive it around anyway, like a moron. Hardly any fluid, and lots of plastic and aluminum boogers. No steel tho, yay. I'm fingering the thing, and feel a big chunk. Get some long tweezers, cause the magnet won't work. I'm thinking to myself 'oh I gotta get a pic of this, can't believe its coming out the hole' Well that's not too hard to diagnose. The shift fork broke! Its all worn out and the plastic fork shoes are chewed too. I'm up early today and off-shift for a week, going to pull that bitch and fix it. Its a big job, I've never had the buggy apart this far since I built it. Total interior removal, and up thru the passenger compartment. I will rework the trans mount and get the rear output dropped about 3" which is really going to help the rear driveline angle too.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Feb 9, 2014 8:21:51 GMT -4
A relaxed pace and 5 hours later, the reduction box is out. Not too bad. Not a trail repair I'd want to have to do, but home in the shop it was easy going. Seats and floor came out easy. I made one cut to the shifter cover plate to aid dis-assembly, it went up under the dash 8" and ties into some cross bracing and is buried under all the wiring. I wasn't 'unwiring' the rig to change a t-case, so I modded it to come apart easier. Just one cut to one piece of floor, right below the front of the dash. Not too bad. Bolted a chain across the roof, and hung chainfalls. stripped down as far as it needs to be, and getting the sling geared up yoink! Pulled as a unit, to work on bench. Hope it seals better this time, it had always leaked between the reduction box and the adapter plates, but was impossible to fix without doing this. Off again today, going to get the t-cases on the bench and tear it down, see what's up. Watching KOH got me stoked on the buggy again.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Feb 10, 2014 9:49:59 GMT -4
In the vice for inspection and teardown...loving my new workbench. Doesn't flinch with 100lbs hanging off the corner. reduction box is leaking under here somewhere. the D300 side is fine. mid-shaft is excellent. Machined by Alan Justason, and heat treated in the Shearwater digital ovens. Note the Rockwell Hardness test divot. No twisting, and the contact points in the splines are barely showing any wear at all. The shiny spots look to me like high spots from the machining getting flattened down to the nominal profile. Very pleased to see this, its a problem area on these types of reduction boxes, and it looks brand new. Twisting and beat splines = near death. This was expected. Broken shift fork. Ran with no fluid, melted and fetched up. The unit would still run, but you couldn't shift. you can see the melting before the break. the coupler has shift fork material welded into the groove. Could lathe it out, but I have more. Going to use this coupler, with full internal splines. More spline engagement is never a bad thing. Found a steel range fork in the parts barn, going to use this instead of replacing with another aluminum one. Should be an upgrade. Scabbed together enough fork pads to make it work. Same fit and function, just looks different. I missed it the first few times rummaging thru my junk t-cases. Ah shit, there's the leak. I though it was a bad RTV job, but that had looked OK once apart. This mount tab is 1/2 cracked around. right thru I'm hoping Rue can weld in an aluminum flatbar for me to save the case. It will hold the tab in place, and I can smear some epoxy around to stop the leak. I have an idea to make a bit fat trans/redbox/t-case mount that will remove the twisting stress from the red box, by grabbing the trans mount and rear t-case mount together with a plate under it all. Because this setup only has a few runs on it, its not strong enough.
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Feb 10, 2014 9:58:48 GMT -4
Pretty sure I have some alum rods here , we can buzz it in
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Feb 10, 2014 10:24:31 GMT -4
I've never welded aluminum. And this is thin. Are you talking using that big tombstone buzzbox to do this? yikes! I do have a bunch of spare cases to practise on tho.
If I blow a hole in this case its done....don't want that.
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Feb 10, 2014 11:27:39 GMT -4
Ya the old tombstone
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Feb 10, 2014 12:32:21 GMT -4
Well I'll keep it in mind. Trying to get hold of Darrell to ask about NSCC. They have a bunch of never used brand new gear.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Feb 12, 2014 13:31:55 GMT -4
Just dropped box off to Mariner Forge to try to weld. They are pro's, they help us Pratt guys out with stuff because they do a ton of work out there. And one of the guys is building a BFG race chassis, he wanted to see my buggy anyway. He wasn't around, but they took the case and will give it a try. Should just be a few days, I said no rush, keep the cost down.
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MudMagnet
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Post by MudMagnet on Feb 12, 2014 16:46:40 GMT -4
good time to strip it for paint, your already half way there...lol
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Feb 12, 2014 17:02:04 GMT -4
Agreed ! Plus I am too busy to help
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Feb 12, 2014 23:54:18 GMT -4
hah! Yeah, i was kinda thinking about it a bit.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Feb 23, 2014 10:05:44 GMT -4
Mariner Forge got the reduction box welded up last week. They did it for me for practically nothing, Pratt&Whitney employee hook-up price. I asked them to fill the crack and lay a bar there to back it up. awesome welds for aluminum! both sides got a bead to fix the crack. I filed the weld down last nite to get the seal surface flat again, didn't take much.
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rue
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Post by rue on Feb 23, 2014 10:23:26 GMT -4
They did a nice job.
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