Heavy D
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Post by Heavy D on Oct 21, 2012 16:41:38 GMT -4
Yeah I agree. You have to gusset and spline the Rubi 44. It would just be cheaper to for a D60.
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pyth
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Posts: 503
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Post by pyth on Oct 21, 2012 23:36:16 GMT -4
D60's cost breakdown: - Axles, housing & diff - Brakes & rotors - new wheels (stock bolt pattern not available??) - divorce lawyer - bachelor apt in seedy part of town I'm not convinced that I really need a set of axles stronger than Chuck Norris to do the sort of driving I do. ;D 1) "Air-Time" : The only time my tires will leave the ground is when something unmovable is wedged under the jeep. 2) "Rock Crawling" : I will crawl over the odd rock but I am not commuting to work via Moab. 3) "Big Power" : I don't plan on doing anything to the mini-van engine currently in my jeep other than change filters & oil (it LOVES oil). There must be something between a box-stock Dana 30 and a fully-built Dana 60? It does bloody well eat the oil doesn't it? On 5000km oil changes I often find myself needing to dump in a liter around 3500-4000. It doesn't obviously burn oil, no blue smoke. Doesn't leak oil, it just makes it disappear somehow. Hell, I went from amsoil to plain jane crappy tire branded stuff. I can't afford to burn that much amsoil lol
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baddog
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No matter where you go ... there you are.
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Post by baddog on Oct 22, 2012 6:52:55 GMT -4
Unless you live in Hogworths ... nothing disappears. It's not on the ground so it must be getting burned and plugging up all the cool gizmos designed to keep the exhaust clean like the catalytic converter.
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baddog
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No matter where you go ... there you are.
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Post by baddog on Oct 22, 2012 19:00:05 GMT -4
Yeah I agree. You have to gusset and spline the Rubi 44. It would just be cheaper to for a D60. Did you pop your front end? U-joint or an axle? Do you have a D44 (Rubicon) or a D30 (X)??
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Oct 22, 2012 19:05:54 GMT -4
Its in his sig , its a rubi
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Post by 53m38 on Oct 22, 2012 19:50:08 GMT -4
Even if you sleeve and gusset the JK Rubi 44, it still has Dana 30 outers doesn't it?
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justajeep
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Bear River, NS
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Post by justajeep on Oct 23, 2012 7:42:40 GMT -4
I'm not convinced that I really need a set of axles stronger than Chuck Norris to do the sort of driving I do. ;D 1) "Air-Time" : The only time my tires will leave the ground is when something unmovable is wedged under the jeep. 2) "Rock Crawling" : I will crawl over the odd rock but I am not commuting to work via Moab. 3) "Big Power" : I don't plan on doing anything to the mini-van engine currently in my jeep other than change filters & oil (it LOVES oil). There must be something between a box-stock Dana 30 and a fully-built Dana 60? I'd say you don't need anything more than a set of RCV axles for your 30. I've been rock crawling for years, first with a V8 CJ on 34" Swampers and now with a V8 ZK on 33's, both with locked Dana 30's (small joints in the CJ). I've broken 2 joints in each. Both in the CJ were from bad or poor quality joints. After getting good joints in, I wheel for yours without a problem. On the ZJ, one was from too much throttle and tire getting air. Twisted the splines too, but I'm still using that axle! Second one was my fault for not getting out and looking to see why the Jeep didn't want to move.
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Big Willy
Jeeper
My idea of a symphony? Six pistons playing a tune my right foot tells it.
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Post by Big Willy on Oct 23, 2012 8:17:49 GMT -4
Even if you sleeve and gusset the JK Rubi 44, it still has Dana 30 outers doesn't it? Many people complain that the Rubicon did not come with a real Dana 44. Put your mind at ease, it is a real Dana 44. The Dana 44 refers to the housing, differential case and axle. What many people are complaining about is they feel that the outer axles, steering u-joints and bearings are not Dana 44. Well they are, since 1996 Jeep upgraded the Dana 30 outers to the equivilent to Dana 44's. So at this point both the D30 and D44 front axles used by Jeep are the same design as far as the outer portions go. You do have a stronger differential with the D44. No the Dana 44 is not the same as what Ford may use or the same as what Jeep may have used on the old Wagoneers, but it is still a Dana 44.
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Creepy
Administrator
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Post by Creepy on Oct 23, 2012 9:10:40 GMT -4
That last post there is bad info. The knuckle info is simply not correct.
The origin of the unitbearing knuckles comes from the XJ D30, mid-80's. The TJ Rubi's used D44 diffs and D30 unitbearing knuckles. Hence the 'small D44' reputation. Its a D30 with a D44 diff.
D30 knuckles were NEVER upgraded to D44 design. All current unitbearing knuckles are based on 80's XJ/YJ D30's. All current D44's use D30 knuckles.
Old school D44 knuckles use bigger balljoints, way bigger castings capable of drilling for high-steer, have way bigger brakes, and a much higher load capacity with the adjustable pre-load spindle/bearing setup. They were even used in 3/4ton trucks and 8 bolt wheel pattern, with a 1/2 thick axle tube.
I think it would be more correct to identify the current offering of front housings from the mid-80's on, as D30's.
I agree with Justajeeps post, get some axles for the JK D30. If you are chewing thru unitbearings and balljoints, and breaking ring and pinions, look to an axle swap.
Check out the fixes for the JK D30 knuckles and bent housing problems, its just some cheap gussets to weld on, easy.
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Post by SocialWheeler on Oct 23, 2012 9:16:31 GMT -4
Rubi's were from 2003... Just sayin'. For an expedition JK that's not wheeled hard, the RCV in the D30 should be plenty.
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Oct 23, 2012 9:21:46 GMT -4
OK, I'll change it to have more clairity.
In a nut-shell:
TJ's and JK's are all running D30's. Rubi's have D44 diffs.
Small brakes, small balljoints, small unitbearings compared to any other axle besides a Zuk. Everything else is bigger.
;D
The JK needs the anti-bending gussets on the knuckle C's for sure. (and tracbar gusset)
Add RCV's if you are breaking axles.
If your tires are so large that your brakes suck ass and you go thru unitbearings/balljoints every couple of months, you should look into swapping axles.
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badwithcomputer
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Post by badwithcomputer on Oct 23, 2012 11:34:15 GMT -4
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pyth
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Post by pyth on Oct 24, 2012 14:57:52 GMT -4
Unless you live in Hogworths ... nothing disappears. It's not on the ground so it must be getting burned and plugging up all the cool gizmos designed to keep the exhaust clean like the catalytic converter. You could be right, I'll be bloody disappointed if an engine with <40 000km on it is fouling shit up that bad. How would one identify that sort of thing? Remove the cat and see if there's oil in it?
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Enos
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Founding Member
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Post by Enos on Oct 24, 2012 17:22:53 GMT -4
I've got a good ol' 4.0L with 382k on it that doesn't use a drop of oil.....just saying
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Big Willy
Jeeper
My idea of a symphony? Six pistons playing a tune my right foot tells it.
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Post by Big Willy on Oct 25, 2012 7:07:35 GMT -4
That last post there is bad info. The knuckle info is simply not correct. I got this info from the Rubicon Owners web site in a post where someone asked this same question and this was pretty much the general consensus.
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