The Garagemahal
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Resident Army Ranger , Navy Seal , Super-Warrior , Ninja !!
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Post by The Garagemahal on Jul 18, 2011 21:13:38 GMT -4
Scott, I actually moved the xj springs forward about 3" or 3 1/2". I didn't wanna move it too far forward, cuz I think comp cuts with less than 8" of stretch and under a 39" tire are er than Sir Elton. I instead ended up with the rear end about 3-4" further back. just enough to make it work a bit smoother on the climbs, and ride a bit better on the road. Thanks for the comments. I was hoping to get out and do some more floor work this evening, but I had to take the Wife's car to the shop and change some tires so it's ready for an alignment tomorrow morning. maybe tomorrow I'll be back at it. So you prob could have hit 101-102 in wheelbase ? cool
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Jul 18, 2011 21:25:37 GMT -4
I like the rear leaf mounts. slippery.
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dan
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Post by dan on Jul 25, 2011 20:30:12 GMT -4
spent time out on it over the weekend, and a couple of hours tonight. sooo many little things to do that I don't think of until I look at it. so I have all of the floor patched and/or rebuilt. the passenger side floor is welded to the boatside, and the boatside is fully welded to the rocker panel. rear passenger fender is on and welded in place. the rear floor panel (the old rear floor panel, but modified to fit my raised floor section) is welded in. the "nut-serts" for the seat belts are welded in. the roll bar is now in place, bolted and welded in front, bolted out back. my Comp-cut-copy rear body mounts were shit, so I built new rear ones at the back of the tub, but they look cooler than stock. the tub will get some paint tomorrow by my father I think. I have to finish the front of the tunnel where I moved the tranny/t-case opening back an inch. the t-case linkage has to be fully bolted down to the t-case. the seats have to go in after the floor is painted. I think I also have to mend one corner of one of the seat frames.... also, the seatbelts have to be bolted back in. the front t-case output has to be removed and replaced with my other factory one, which happens to be in Digby or Bear River. hope to have that thursday. or else it will be going on saturday morning. I will be pulling the plates off of my ZJ and switching them to the YJ, as they are SAR volunteer plates, and the ZJ isn't on the road at this time. it means I don't have to pay the $150-ish registration renewal fee, and I'd rather the YJ be my search vehicle anyways. insurance has to be removed from the ZJ and put back on the YJ also. the stereo has to be bolted back in. that can be done on my way to the run on saturday though. and the last thing to do will be put on the bikini top and windjammer. they might not happen. I'm sure I missed a few other things for my list. will see about getting some updated photos tomorrow.
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Jul 25, 2011 22:42:49 GMT -4
Good luck Dan!
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dan
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Post by dan on Jul 29, 2011 5:17:00 GMT -4
had things thrown together last night enough to take it for a roll up the gravel pit road next door. had it up to about 50 km/h on the pavement first though. -seats and seatbelts are done -all floor work is done -shocks are all in -locking hubs are done. -differentials are geared to 3.31 and have fluid now. this will be changed soon though. -brakes are good to go, although could use a little more bleeding, they're a little squishy. -still need to tighten the u-bolts on the front end a little and cut the extra off of them. -license plate is on the back. have to attach the front plate still though.
now I need some help on this one. on our maiden drive, we were going along great, engine sounded awesome, lots of power, then it shut off. stopped, rolled back down the road a ways, tried again, and it started right up. turned around to come home, and while i was going, it would die and start back up intermittently, then it smoothed out and was fine. could the fuel pickup not be situated properly and maybe it's sucking air when the fuel is bouncing around? I have about 20L in the tank.
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dan
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Post by dan on Aug 1, 2011 20:39:06 GMT -4
so I figured I'd add some photos of my carnage from saturday. I'll explain things as best as I can, step by step. the Heep worked awesome through the entire trail, until I reached the rock pile. there are two options for the rock pile. go through, or do the bypass. I have always done the bypass, but things were going really well, so I thought I'd give it a try. with the 3.31 gearing, it was a bit rough coming down the hill into the rocks, but it went okay considering. I was getting around the last rock before making the hard left, and suddenly I dropped off of a huge rock, my head bounced off of the roll bar, and I hit the clutch and brake. I tried again to crawl the next rock to get out, and I heard the notorious *SNAP* of a u-joint failing. I crawled underneath, found the rear joint in the rear shaft had ripped right out of the rear pinion yoke. not only that, but it had snapped one or two of the strap bolts off. and one of the ears on the joint were flattened. so I had a winch pull out of there, and limped along in front-wheel-drive. the mud hole was fine, I made a hard push to get as far as I could before being winched. I made it as far as the rig ahead of me, which had 33's and 4-wheel-drive! then I realized I had no drive. looked down, and the front driveshaft was laying down in the mud. thought I broke the front u-joint, then noticed the front end of it was still on the pinion. I figured that would be easy, because I could just take it off and stick it together and head out, but I had to get towed out to the road to do it, since I was sitting in about 16" of gooey mud. Jason winched me up and out of the hole, and Alan hooked on to me with a strap and started pulling me out to the road. we had the driveshaft held up with a bit of wire. as alan was pulling, I felt a hard stop, and shouted "whoa" so i could hop out and check, but just as I went for the door, Alan gave another tug, after not hearing me, and I heard a loud "CRUNCH", and "CRAAACK". I finally got out and looked, and the case was bleeding all over the ground. sooooo they drug me out of the trail, and Alan towed me back to the farm, and I left it for the night. went back sunday with another t-case I had, a short end for the rear driveshaft I had stolen from another one of my front driveshafts, and a D-30 pinion yoke which I hoped would fit. I pulled the broken case out, swapped the guts over, re-installed, pulled the pinion yoke, the D30 one dropped right in, to my relief, and I changed the end of the driveshaft, and put it all back together in under 4 hours, then drove home. my welded in insert for lengthening the shaft held up! the t-case didn't fare so well. so that's my weekend.... and here are some "close to finished pics from tonight.
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Post by HardKorTJ on Aug 1, 2011 20:49:42 GMT -4
all ready for the next adventure?
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dan
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Post by dan on Aug 2, 2011 5:06:55 GMT -4
just have to lengthen another front shaft. trying to find a long-travel slip spline now though...
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dan
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Post by dan on Oct 8, 2011 18:57:48 GMT -4
bought some pieces from Drive Products, and built myself a new front driveshaft over the last couple of days. used (I think) 1 3/4" sch. 40 pipe for the tube, it was slightly under 1.700 inside, but I forget now what it was. taught myself how to run our "new" lathe at work ( big Lodge & Shipley) a couple of weeks ago, and cut things down on thursday. I took an old shaft that had bad splines on it, and cut off the t-case yoke. I cut it down to 1.725" OD and cut the pipe from the inside to fit snuggly with a hammer's touch. the pipe was cut to 29 7/8" long. the male stub I got from Drive Products had to be cut down to 1.710 so I had lots of meat on the pipe, which I cut to match. brought it all home, and welded it together with my Lincoln 135 with the flux. lots of heat from it, for the job. I'll snap a pic or two tomorrow maybe. it isn't straight, but it works at slow speeds, which is fine by me. I tested the 4wd this afternoon after putting the new shaft in, and flexed things out on the sand pile the guys have for mixing concrete for the barn foundation.
The only time I may have something to worry about is if I "turtle" myself on a rock and have the front axle droop too far out, it may come apart then, but I *think* it should be okay.
oh, and last weekend in the rain, I removed the winch and winch-plate, fabbed up a new grille support and welded it in, fully attached the winch to the winch plate, bolted it to the frame, wired it up, and spooled on the cable. it's nice to have something on the front to get me out of a bind again.
the next few weeks will be work time for the ol' girl. we have a cabin in the woods over the mountain from Bridgetown, and need to put a new roof on it. it's about a mile in the woods with no power or anythings, and a nice tractor-rutted road in. my Heep will be responsible for hauling the trailer loaded with shingles and boards in to the camp, Dad's Heep will be used for a winch point if needed.
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dan
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Post by dan on Nov 26, 2011 18:36:00 GMT -4
I guess it's time for an update. haven't made a lot of progress as of late, as we have been working on the barn, trying to organize putting a new roof on our camp, and building a new pole barn for storage. so I have been working off-and-on on an anti-wrap bar for the YJ, to help give my rear XJ springs a longer life. I started with some 2x4x3/16 tube for making an axle-end bracket, and modified things a bit so it would fit in there. I had to move my lower shock mounts also in order to make things fit. In the end, I came up with this: used 1 1/4" Sch. 40 pipe for the bar, and I think 1 5/8" sch. 40 for the bushings. I made it to fit up on the edge of the differential housing, it actually will overlap the housing from the tube by an inch or so, it's the only place I can put it without interfering with something. I hope that some time in the next few weeks I can have a chance to weld the axle bracket on, then I can cut the bar to length and put a bushing on the other end also.
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dan
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Post by dan on May 13, 2012 12:00:58 GMT -4
I parked the YJ again, after getting my ZJ on the road for the first time in nearly a year. It was time to build a new set of rear spring packs, finish up my anti-wrap bar, and install that, and get a few other things done if there is time before Jam. I test-fit a pack of springs in, witha brand new main leaf, but I'm not happy with how it looks, I think my 3rd leaf is too stiff, and causing the main and secondary to bend funny. I'm gonna do some scrounging and see if I can build up something with other stuff I have at hand. here's my anti-wrap bar sitting in palce. I still have soem cast-welding rods from the 8.8 install I never did, so I'll weld part of the bracket to the side of the differential with the rods, and MIG the rest. Here is my "plan" for mounting the pivot bushing for the anti-wrap: my belly pan is 3/8", so I won't bother with a support tube or anything along there to attach to. Instead, I made a "duck-bill" of sorts, which will straddle the belly pan, welded both topo and bottom, and make for a bit of a slider for the rocks also. Quack quack
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on May 13, 2012 12:54:49 GMT -4
quack quack! that'll work. that 3rd leaf does look kinda gross.
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dan
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Post by dan on May 20, 2012 20:56:46 GMT -4
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dan
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Posts: 3,397
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Post by dan on May 20, 2012 20:57:00 GMT -4
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dan
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Post by dan on May 20, 2012 20:57:10 GMT -4
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