Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Feb 25, 2012 13:33:20 GMT -4
Found a Canadian distributor for the Baileigh TN-250. Ordered from Aircraft Spruce and they do all the border crap and can give you a quote with no surprizes or mystery brokerage. I ordered it on the 2nd, got here yesterday. Excellent service. My initial excitement was slightly dampend when I went to spin the saw shaft and it didn't move, the drill just spun the adapter in it's bore. WTF? ARRG! Found a split pin on the (neat and tidy) floor.....its undersized. Must have fell out of the shaft. Off to a shitty start. Its the wrong diameter and wrong length. I just put another proper size pin in it. ...back to being excited. ;D this way.... that way..... perfect. offset notch while clamping on a 90deg. bend See the offset? offset notch on the bottom. Need to get some quality hole saws, and a big powerful drill with a cord.
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Feb 25, 2012 15:01:08 GMT -4
That is awesome . Its a fantastic addition to your bender ! Let the fabbing begin
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dan
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Post by dan on Feb 25, 2012 17:45:45 GMT -4
sa-weeet...... nice looking machine ya got there Jan.
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Post by theonlybull on Feb 25, 2012 19:22:28 GMT -4
nice lookin' rig there. starrett carbide saws are well worth the $$ IMHO
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Post by 2004sahara on Feb 25, 2012 20:51:02 GMT -4
very nice...lennox brand whole saws are good.
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Feb 26, 2012 0:21:03 GMT -4
Need to get some quality hole saws, and a big powerful drill with a cord. Makita makes a slow speed HIGH torque half inch drill that would be excellent for that. I think it turns at 500 RPM, single speed. It will snap off 1/2 inch or bigger bits for a joke if they jam. Lots of power.
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Feb 26, 2012 1:27:31 GMT -4
Oh yeah? Did not know that, have to check it out. I'll be looking around, Pirate4x4 is saying 200rpm cuts good/good tool life.
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Hawkes
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Post by Hawkes on Feb 26, 2012 6:07:14 GMT -4
Need to get some quality hole saws, and a big powerful drill with a cord. Makita makes a slow speed HIGH torque half inch drill that would be excellent for that. I think it turns at 500 RPM, single speed. It will snap off 1/2 inch or bigger bits for a joke if they jam. Lots of power. When I was reading this I was trying to think of a good drill, that is one thing they don't make like they used to. When I was in the electrical trade the boss had Milwaukee tools but I used my fathers vintage Craftsman. I was drilling through an 8" sill with a 2" + Forstner type bit and hit a spike. Since I am left handed my hand always got across the trigger lock. The damn drill kept going with my arm in it until it unplugged. It didn't break any bones but that drill earned my respect. The Milwaukee wouldn't do that if you hit something, I wonder what the difference is? I don't think there's a clutch so it must be torque? Other than the pin lots of thought went into that. The ability to clamp curved surfaces and the big hand wheel are nice features.
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Post by itsakeeper on Feb 26, 2012 8:35:17 GMT -4
damn that's sweet !!!
check the dewalt store in burnside for good prices
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dan
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Post by dan on Feb 26, 2012 8:58:23 GMT -4
Makita makes a slow speed HIGH torque half inch drill that would be excellent for that. I think it turns at 500 RPM, single speed. It will snap off 1/2 inch or bigger bits for a joke if they jam. Lots of power. When I was reading this I was trying to think of a good drill, that is one thing they don't make like they used to. When I was in the electrical trade the boss had Milwaukee tools but I used my fathers vintage Craftsman. I was drilling through an 8" sill with a 2" + Forstner type bit and hit a spike. Since I am left handed my hand always got across the trigger lock. The damn drill kept going with my arm in it until it unplugged. It didn't break any bones but that drill earned my respect. The Milwaukee wouldn't do that if you hit something, I wonder what the difference is? I don't think there's a clutch so it must be torque? Other than the pin lots of thought went into that. The ability to clamp curved surfaces and the big hand wheel are nice features. we had a 1/2" drill at work that I used for drilling holes in truck frames, when the other drill calved. it wasn't really that big or anything, but it packed one hell of a whomp.... it had no side grip on it, so it was hard to hold onto, and it had no variable speeds on it..... One day I was drilling through one of the truck frames, and the 5/8" bit caught on the last little bit of metal on the back side of the hole. it stopped the bit dead in it's tracks, then took the drill out of my hands, wrapped it up until the corxd was wrapped around and wristed onto my arm about 10 times, then finally pulled the cord from the plug...... I had burn marks from the cord pulling so tight on my arm, and thought my wrist was broken.... I ended up throwing it behind the air compressor, and I'm pretty sure it ended up in the garbage soon after....
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justajeep
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Post by justajeep on Feb 26, 2012 9:05:48 GMT -4
My father was recently given an old aluminum cased drill, gear reduction to 500 rpm, and a real Jacobs chuck (same as I used on my mill, lathe, drill press). If you could find one of those it would have all the power you'd ever need, though I agree a bit less than 500 rpm would be easier on cutters.
I've a got a Craftsman 1/2 drill that is 7.8 amps and variable speed. It has lots of power, I once snapped off a 3/4 bit with it (I never use it without the adjustable side handle)! 10 years ago the price was $90 on sale, DeWalt did sell the exact same one.
I wonder if you could use annular cutters on that. Turning at the right speed they would last a long time (and could be sharpened). One 1 5/8 cutter would cost you about $100 though.
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dan
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Post by dan on Feb 26, 2012 9:18:16 GMT -4
yeah, those annular cutters are bad-ass, we have a magnetic-base drill at work that uses them. just hafta be careful not to break them. they are way too easy to shatter. I'd be a little concerned with trying one of them, because they work best cutting a flat surface. They also would probably have trouble if you drilled into the seam.
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Post by T-Dogg on Feb 26, 2012 11:05:01 GMT -4
I use the 1/2 makita drill on a regular baises. I have seen them pull me off the floor(all 165lbs) ;D
Had one slip from my hand when it hit a knot in wood and almost knocked me out, handel caught me right on the tip of chin almost got my reset button.
Lastly when drilling in a floor I hit some nails, tried to power through and ended up with the handel in my hand and the bit and motor in the floor.
I use them with a 4" hole saw on ocasion, it is best to start them in reverse than go forward once you have the whole scored.
Kinda felt guilty giggeling about you getting hung up on the drill,my humour is boughty and paid for from my experiences as well.
Use with caution guys.
Da Dogg
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Feb 26, 2012 15:35:03 GMT -4
Haha, good stuff guys. I'm 130lbs soaking wet, and left handed. In for a good time!
I think instead of looking for new, I'm gonna hit the pawn shops for a big old corded unit.
Annular cutters - I'll try 'em out. I was looking at TDog's carbide insert GreenLee versions, and I have some other ones with a thick wall and carbide tips to try. Been saving them for something like this.
They are expensive, but I'll pay for quality tools. Some toolproving and testing will be in order.
I'm hearing a lot that you can't buy a good holesaw anymore.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Mar 2, 2012 11:47:07 GMT -4
As mentioned in the home-made notcher thread....this can happen - saw not deep enough. With the TN-250, just whip it around and finish the cut from the other end. In the first few cuts, I could see mounting in the vice wasn't going to work. Can't swing the drill around, and I didn't like being on the backside against the wall, or hanging over the bench trying to cut. Dragged in this old rim, and a large colomn 2x6x1/4 with a 1/2" base. (Thx Luc, still using that St. Margrets Bay Center steel) Cut it down to a working height, and added a wire tidy over the scab. There. Unlimited access. Will be easier to store now too, find a corner for it. 51deg and 35deg, cage roof spreaders for opposite corners, front corner joint. I can just cut angles from the drawings, instead of test fitting and trimming a bit at a time. I bought some new saws, but was kinda dissapointed to get them home and see they appear to the the same as the PA set i already had. [beer ad] Rock River holesaws go down easy, no aftertaste [\beer ad] Stupid names. They should call them 'sucky, OK, good, awesome' Various manufacturing origins - USA, China, China made in USA, USA with China components, etc. The Milwakee one looks best quality, made in USA, and is Ice* hardened. Going to assume that means it was cryo'd. The GreenLee and Milwakee look to have a bit of a different tooth profile than the purely Chinese ones. Time will tell how they stand up. I wrote the dates on the backs of them to help tell how long they last.
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