kilo69
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Post by kilo69 on Mar 6, 2013 12:57:58 GMT -4
Towing big things it will get hot on the hills. Enough the fan kicks in and makes you wonder what let go the first time you hear it!
Engine wise it does have the small EGR cooler leak that these are known for and the occasional injector sticks when cold but that has pretty much stopped by switching to a synthetic oil over the ford 10W30 they recommend. I'll be doing the EGR delete and a new oil cooler when the weather warms up enough since that requires lifting the body to gain access.
I haven't notice the over hang causing and problems towing but I've only hauled the long 21ft trailer.
Yes that's the mileage it gets. Pretty much between 12.5L/100km and 14.5L/100km depending on how I drive it. Hauling more weight it goes up It is a 6000lb rig afterall
Hauling a good load it'll drink 16-17L/100km. Like when hauling the tractor or hay.
Oh I just remembered we hauled horses in a horse trailer... which it barely even noticed behind it
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Mar 6, 2013 13:03:36 GMT -4
Towing big things it will get hot on the hills. Enough the fan kicks in and makes you wonder what let go the first time you hear it! Engine wise it does have the small EGR cooler leak that these are known for and the occasional injector sticks when cold but that has pretty much stopped by switching to a synthetic oil over the ford 10W30 they recommend. I'll be doing the EGR delete and a new oil cooler when the weather warms up enough since that requires lifting the body to gain access. I haven't notice the over hang causing and problems towing but I've only hauled the long 21ft trailer. Yes that's the mileage it gets. Pretty much between 12.5L/100km and 14.5L/100km depending on how I drive it. Hauling more weight it goes up It is a 6000lb rig afterall Hauling a good load it'll drink 16-17L/100km. Like when hauling the tractor or hay. Oh I just remembered we hauled horses in a horse trailer... which it barely even noticed behind it You have to take the body off to get at the engine ? ouch !!
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kilo69
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Post by kilo69 on Mar 6, 2013 13:06:22 GMT -4
You have to take the body off to get at the engine ? ouch !! yeah tell me about it. I'm debating how much to replace when I do that. EGR cooler and oil cooler for sure. Maybe injectors and put in head studs. Ford manual says "20hrs labour" to change the EGR cooler... most of which is pulling the body. I can change the turbo easily though it's right by my knee under the doghouse lol
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Mar 6, 2013 13:53:08 GMT -4
You have to take the body off to get at the engine ? ouch !! yeah tell me about it. I'm debating how much to replace when I do that. EGR cooler and oil cooler for sure. Maybe injectors and put in head studs. Ford manual says "20hrs labour" to change the EGR cooler... most of which is pulling the body. I can change the turbo easily though it's right by my knee under the doghouse lol You must be looking at information for the F series trucks, not the E-series vans. There is no pulling the body off a van, at least not easily. But even the Ford factory service manual for the trucks does NOT recommend pulling the cab to change the heads. It can be done with the cab on, and is not really that difficult. You simply use zip ties to hold the head bolts up in the heads, and they come out with the heads. Use zip ties for the studs as well when reinstalling the heads. I don't think this will work for a van though, as it is really tight in there. The motor mounts must be dropped to remove the valve covers. To change heads on the van, you will need to pull the engine out. Ford allows 40 hours of labour to remove the engine, do the repairs, and reinstall. Being our first time pulling a 6 litre engine, my neighbour and I were probably a bit over 40 hours, but not by much. We also did a lot of other work besides just pulling the heads. EGR cooler, oil cooler, injectors can all be done with the engine in the van. The doghouse helps a lot with that. If you did lift the body off the van and were going to put studs in, as long as your head gaskets were not leaking, the studs can be installed without pulling the heads. Just remove one head bolt at a time, and replace with a stud. Either way, it is not something you do for fun on a weekend. ;D
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chevystroker
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Post by chevystroker on Mar 6, 2013 15:00:32 GMT -4
Oops, my bad. Just found out that Ford did early on recommend pulling the body on the vans for engine work, but they do not anymore. Apparently, the body, being so big, could twist and move around, and even break windshields. Very hard to handle. Now Ford says to pull the engine out. Sorry bout that.
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kilo69
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Post by kilo69 on Mar 6, 2013 15:05:36 GMT -4
yeah tell me about it. I'm debating how much to replace when I do that. EGR cooler and oil cooler for sure. Maybe injectors and put in head studs. Ford manual says "20hrs labour" to change the EGR cooler... most of which is pulling the body. I can change the turbo easily though it's right by my knee under the doghouse lol You must be looking at information for the F series trucks, not the E-series vans. There is no pulling the body off a van, at least not easily. But even the Ford factory service manual for the trucks does NOT recommend pulling the cab to change the heads. It can be done with the cab on, and is not really that difficult. You simply use zip ties to hold the head bolts up in the heads, and they come out with the heads. Use zip ties for the studs as well when reinstalling the heads. I don't think this will work for a van though, as it is really tight in there. The motor mounts must be dropped to remove the valve covers. To change heads on the van, you will need to pull the engine out. Ford allows 40 hours of labour to remove the engine, do the repairs, and reinstall. Being our first time pulling a 6 litre engine, my neighbour and I were probably a bit over 40 hours, but not by much. We also did a lot of other work besides just pulling the heads. EGR cooler, oil cooler, injectors can all be done with the engine in the van. The doghouse helps a lot with that. If you did lift the body off the van and were going to put studs in, as long as your head gaskets were not leaking, the studs can be installed without pulling the heads. Just remove one head bolt at a time, and replace with a stud. Either way, it is not something you do for fun on a weekend. ;D Strange, I asked on the ford powerstroke forums under the Van section and that's what everyone said about the EGR and Oil Cooler. The heads they said could be done by lowering the engine via a motor mount. I don't plan on doing the heads other than swapping the bolts for ARP studs EDIT: Just saw your edit, well I wondered what was easier, body or engine pulled. Especially since I don't have a lift... but I do have a tractor to pick out an engine with.
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Mar 6, 2013 15:19:48 GMT -4
I have been reading that the 7.3 is more reliable then the 6.0 . With all the reading you have done , what would you rather have ?
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kilo69
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Post by kilo69 on Mar 6, 2013 15:42:45 GMT -4
I have been reading that the 7.3 is more reliable then the 6.0 . With all the reading you have done , what would you rather have ? It's hard to make that call. Yes I'd say the 7.3 is less likely to have problems over the 6.0L but it does have some of it's own, but most are not as costly as the 6.0's. If you gave me two choices and the only difference was the engine. Same price, same body, same mileage etc etc I'd likely take the 7.3 But for what I paid for the 6.0L... I have not seen another 7.3 or 6.0L extended E-350 even close to that with a running engine. I have kept an eye and the closest I've seen was a $3500 and it was a small bus not a cargo van. Most cargo's are still pushing into the 4500-6000 range if they are in the 2000's year wise. There is a lot to check on a 6.0L Coolant loss... hard to check really... can smell it in exhaust if bad enough FICM voltage... can be checked via scanguage or by pulling the module Coolant vs oil temps.... shows signs of plugged oil cooler which causes EGR cooler failures head gaskgets.... checked by pressure in the cooling system under load. Turbo issues... gotta open her up on a hill and make sure it'll breathe. Will pop a code. Watching with scanguage you can watch the boost and variable gate opening to tell if it's sticking vanes that's about it off the top of my head
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Post by chefted on Mar 6, 2013 16:31:32 GMT -4
I pull the bodys on the trucks, to do the heads and delete's I find it easier than working over the fenders for a couple days.
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kilo69
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Post by kilo69 on Mar 8, 2013 9:13:49 GMT -4
Here you go Scott. Drove in this morning and did the speed limit the whole way in. 61km drive. First 20kms is 80kph... then drive through elmsdale/enfield. Then on the 102 at the Enfield big stop and into Dartmouth. Max speed was 116 kph THis was the final numbers TLK (Trip L/100km) $ C is the trip cost in fuel EOT is my engine oil temp... which is COLD in my opinion... barely gets above 170 F these days.
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