Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Dec 9, 2006 20:35:27 GMT -4
nice progress!
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Stevens
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2008 Mud Pit Master
Posts: 3,240
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Post by Stevens on Dec 10, 2006 17:15:01 GMT -4
Update:Made some progress on Sunday. Got the rear main lifter valley bypass line done. This will ensure that the rear main bearings are not the last to be oiled. Really only necessary if you hit 5000 rpm (which may happen for extended periods of time. Heads got bolted on. Then decided to test fit the valve covers, Intake, TBI and air filter to make sure everything was going to fit. and Plan for tomorrow evening is to get the lifters, push rods, rocker arms and intake bolted on. Still alot of parts on the engine still in the Cj that I want to swap over. Oil pan, distributor, exhaust manifolds, thermostat housing etc.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Dec 10, 2006 17:17:33 GMT -4
those vavle covers are fawkin pimp!!!
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Stevens
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2008 Mud Pit Master
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Post by Stevens on Dec 10, 2006 17:38:58 GMT -4
I couldn't in good conscience bolt on the old ones, i just do not like the stock styled ones. These are new Finned Aluminum ones from Omix-ada. Nice quality, good looking pieces.
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Dec 10, 2006 19:01:36 GMT -4
Looks awesome
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justajeep
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Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
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Post by justajeep on Dec 10, 2006 19:08:11 GMT -4
Those are nice lookin valve covers. All of it looks great together. I might have to polish that crank pulley after all. Every AMC V8 I've taken apart has had the rear main worn more than the others, so I think think the oil line is a help on any engine. It's cheap and easy to do.
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bill richards
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mud re-freshener
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Post by bill richards on Dec 10, 2006 20:21:37 GMT -4
yeah, mine's still together... I KNOW I've gone over 5K... a "couple" times... Bill
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Stevens
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2008 Mud Pit Master
Posts: 3,240
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Post by Stevens on Dec 11, 2006 21:27:04 GMT -4
yeah, mine's still together... I KNOW I've gone over 5K... a "couple" times... Bill Wha?? Really?? I always considered you to be a Granny driver! Got the lifters, pushrods, rocker arms all in tonight. Took apart the timing chain cover and all looks to be mint. ;D
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bill richards
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mud re-freshener
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Post by bill richards on Dec 11, 2006 23:59:25 GMT -4
Can't recall if you've mentioned it already... did you machine the oil pump cover? Bill
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Stevens
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2008 Mud Pit Master
Posts: 3,240
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Post by Stevens on Dec 12, 2006 0:21:01 GMT -4
Nope.
The one that was originally attached to the engine had some noticeable scoring from the gears. Too much for my liking. So I found another one on the "Great shelf of used parts". Took it apart tonight and looks pretty good. I can run my finger along the face and not feel any scoring. Will be measuring the clearances with it tomorrow night.
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bill richards
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Post by bill richards on Dec 12, 2006 2:10:38 GMT -4
That's cool... as long as it's flat and no circles you should be fine! Got a new spring? if not, I've got a new stock one you can have. There's a huge difference in the gaskets as well.. use the thinest one you can find.
Bill
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Dec 12, 2006 6:17:49 GMT -4
i've never had a 360 apart...... the timing cover has the oil pump, i knew that was a sore spot on them. so if you use a thick gasket, you gain clearance in the pump? gross! lol
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chevystroker
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NEVER CONFUSE HAVING A CAREER WITH HAVING A LIFE ! ! ! ! ! !
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Post by chevystroker on Dec 12, 2006 17:26:58 GMT -4
the timing cover has the oil pump, i knew that was a sore spot on them. so if you use a thick gasket, you gain clearance in the pump? gross! lol Can you leave the gasket out and use a good quality gasket maker? And no, I don't mean silicone. Permatex or Loctite make good gasket eliminators, and would be a lot thinner than a gasket, as long as the design won't let the oil pressure blow out with the gasket maker instead of a gasket. And of course as long as the surfaces are flat and mate up good and tight. Oh Yeah. Engine looks great. Bet you can't wait to hear it running.
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bill richards
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mud re-freshener
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Post by bill richards on Dec 12, 2006 18:11:44 GMT -4
I'd be leary of not using a gasket... might be too tight. the gears tend to eat into the cover/cap as it is. Course you could always tell with some plastigauge. At least a properly torqued, cover, with gasket in place should still be nice and level.
yeah jan, they tend to lose pressure from the cover, as well as the housing wall to gear clearance. The cover is easier to fix, although some guy (search bulltear) has been coating the housing with something to increase the tolerances... I don't know about that one. The crown timing chain/oil pump housing are still available... I believe they're only 1 nut... not the 2 that they used to be a few years ago...
Bill
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justajeep
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Bear River, NS
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Post by justajeep on Dec 12, 2006 18:56:41 GMT -4
Even when the pump is getting worn, they will pump lots of volume and pressure. When the pressure relief valve stuck on mine this summer, it ruined a 100psi gage, swelled up the oil filter so much the inside could rattle around, then blew out the filter gasket!
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