Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Jan 1, 2013 16:51:31 GMT -4
3 link will work fine.
Those inserts......I'd stick them out a bit to weld them, they are too flush. get the heat into the nut better. the way it is now, the edge of the nut will most likely deform from the heat, and mess up the threads. its almost looking like a butt weld. Can you stick them out a 1/2"?
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 1, 2013 17:18:48 GMT -4
I didn't think it would be a problem putting in a 3-link, I'm sure it wouldn't be an outrageous thing to say that there are probably thousands of Jeeps in North America that have front 3-links. Jan, I will see what I can do about pulling the inserts out a little further. I had that one sticking out between 1/16" and 1/8", but I see your point, and will try to move them out closer fo 1/2". as a thought, would it do more harm than good to cut a 3/4" long slice down the end of the tube, where the insert will sit, and fill that in with weld, rather than just the plug welds? or will it be plenty sufficient with just the plug welds and the end welded in?
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justajeep
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Bear River, NS
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Post by justajeep on Jan 1, 2013 18:52:31 GMT -4
Plug welds will be fine. I usually leave the insert out 1/4 to 3/8, just enough to get a nice bead of weld around it. Never had a problem with it ruining the threads.
Everyone always says to use plug welds (it's easy to do, so why not), but I've never seen a kit arm that has them.
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Jan 2, 2013 12:48:04 GMT -4
I have ruined a bung or two from distorted threads from welding heat. So I like to stick them out a bit and get more material involved. 1/2" is max, 3/8" is good too. Just enough for the bead to lay without deforming the edge of the bung.
Kit arms usually have an insert with a shoulder over the tube, they can't get pushed into the tube. Less need of plug welds. I usually do it, just 'cause its not that time consuming. Its 'cheap insurance' against weld failure. My 120V welder doesn't do plug welds too good, I'm sure a few hammer smacks would dislodge a 1/2 " hole in 1/4". They just fill up with wire, and don't get into the base material. Looks good, doesn't stick.
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 3, 2013 21:15:06 GMT -4
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 12, 2013 22:45:37 GMT -4
well, the Wife let me come back to the house for the weekend, she had her lil sister over. I got a bit done anyways, hope to get some more done tomorrow. Here are my arms tacked together. Don't mind the different size plug holes, although the smallest one is 7/16th I think. Lowers are about 31.5" long After moving the YJ inside where there is heat, I lost track of a few things...... new approach angle? How's this look? That is about a 102" WB oh, finished up the upper control arm bracket
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jmurphy
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Post by jmurphy on Jan 13, 2013 9:56:13 GMT -4
Are you going to run a track bar up front? I would mock that up to check clearance before you finalize the front axle position.
Bracket looks good. Shiny!
Jonathan
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Jan 13, 2013 14:41:40 GMT -4
Right on Dan. Hard to compliment the fluxcore until its cleaned up. bracket looks good done. Arms look good too.
Make sure to check the steering vs the new wheelbase. you don't want it rubbing - remember the box doesn't move forward too. And you'll have to squeeze a tracbar in there.
The YJ is inside now? You plan on finishing this for spring?
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 13, 2013 17:25:21 GMT -4
Jan, I have an Astro box in mind for the steering, I already had the front end moved ahead about an inch or so, and it was close to the limit for forward movement. I plan for clsoe to 4" of stretch in the front, so with the astro box, I will have to reposition the box further back on the frame so things line up right. Yup, YJ is inside now, Dad was planning to get concrete poured this winter, but he bought another woodlot instead, to the concrete will have to wait. I definately plan to have this finished up for THIS spring. There aren't as many things to be done this time as last time.
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 13, 2013 17:37:38 GMT -4
Today I did some ripping, tearing, and measuring. The hood and fenders were sacrificed in the name of being able to see and move around. I cleaned up the axle, stripped all of the brackets and mounts from it, and cleaned things up a bit with the grinder, and started doing a bit of toying with ideas. I made this truss as small and tight to the axle as possible, so I have as much clearance as I can for suspension travel. I had to cut a small hole in the front of the truss on top to let the vent tube come out, I'll have a piece of rubber tube run up and along the upper control arm when I'm done. All it is, is a piece of 1/4" wall 2x2, same as what I used for the links. I didn't make the truss as much for axle support, as to have something extra to attach the upper control arm bracket to. When it is done though, things should be strudy. Anyways, that's all for this weekend, have to go back home to see the wife for the week. Might make a day trip back up next weekend if I have time.
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 13, 2013 17:39:21 GMT -4
Are you going to run a track bar up front? I would mock that up to check clearance before you finalize the front axle position. Bracket looks good. Shiny! Jonathan That's the plan next, just need to find some kinda material for making a trac-bar.
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Jan 14, 2013 15:52:12 GMT -4
Astro box! cool, that will be something different. Anyone around here running one? Mo, maybe?
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dan
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Post by dan on Jan 14, 2013 16:13:00 GMT -4
Not sure, honestly... I just hope i don't run out space for the tracbar. The steering box will be disappearing next weekend maybe
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Post by chefted on Jan 15, 2013 19:16:57 GMT -4
The 1999ish F250 has a foward throw box as well, prob bigger that the asro box. differnt lines though. Looks good so far
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Post by Zach "Hulltech Redneck" on Jan 16, 2013 19:03:43 GMT -4
i love the build dan! has been my dream for my yj, i too have waggy 44s
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