Big G
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Post by Big G on Jun 30, 2012 17:15:16 GMT -4
So, after some measuring and head scratching, it appears that with my current setup even if I french the frame clear to the inside wall... I'll only have 3/4" of clearance between frame and tire for the coilovers. So, some solutions that came to mind were; wheel spacers, different offset wheels, or running single rear wheel hubs on the 14 bolt. I'm going with the hubs. Should give me another 2-3" per side. I'll just worry about tire coverage later. This also has me wanting to go full width in the front to match.
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Big G
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Post by Big G on Jul 3, 2012 16:53:09 GMT -4
Here are the two styles of hubs... old on the right, new on the left. Axle brackets tacket into place So, discovered that the different hubs not only push the wheel mounting surface out 2", but the rotor too... so I have to cut out and re-weld the backing plate. Not thrilled about that one. Control arms are coped (thanks Jan) and ready to have the bungs welded in.
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Post by HardKorTJ on Jul 5, 2012 11:38:01 GMT -4
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Big G
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Post by Big G on Jul 10, 2012 18:44:17 GMT -4
Had a day to work at 'er Cut the backing plates off new hubs on to locate the backing plates After a crap load of fitting, cutting and welding the backing plates are slimmed down and relocated... though not even at all. LOL also welded on the 4 weld on joints on the control arms... big thanks to Creepy for the use of his tubing notcher
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MudMagnet
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Post by MudMagnet on Jul 10, 2012 21:39:00 GMT -4
that gave the notcher a workout
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Big G
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Post by Big G on Jul 12, 2012 6:24:21 GMT -4
that gave the notcher a workout Not at all... took longer to position the tubing then to make the cut. I'd say a min or two each. I was very impressed. That being said it was a brand new hole saw too.
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Jul 12, 2012 22:34:51 GMT -4
I wanted to see if the notcher would do it, with Glen's material and hole saw. lol It worked wicked... I just watched.
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Big G
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Post by Big G on Jul 17, 2012 12:31:40 GMT -4
Well comtrol arms are built (minus snap rings ) and axle's bolted up for driveshart measurement and coilover testfitting. MFR and I (he's the brains behind the operation) decided that the coilover will hang down below the axle instead of going up through the body. So at this point I have to decide if I need to swap the calipers to opposite sides and run them in front of the wheel instead of behind for clearance of the coilover. I'm realy not sure... it looks like it could work as is. Used to pretty much be into the rock rail
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4X4PLAY
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Post by 4X4PLAY on Jul 17, 2012 12:39:43 GMT -4
Looks like she's gonna kick some ass G!! What sized coilovers?? Did you stretch the rear at all??
Cheers! Jeff
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Creepy
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Post by Creepy on Jul 17, 2012 16:00:44 GMT -4
2nd last pic shows the stretch. 'it used to be into the rockrails' refering to the tire.
Glad to hear you were open to suggestion to put the coilovers 'not' on top of the axle. With a nice flat bracket and a skid effect, hanging below is a better option than hacking the fenderwells to shit. On that rig at least, its still nice!
Heavy work you are getting done in the small space behind the rig. Nice job.
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MudMagnet
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covering Cape Breton, one Rock at a time!!!
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Post by MudMagnet on Jul 17, 2012 16:20:45 GMT -4
holly pinion angle
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Big G
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Post by Big G on Jul 17, 2012 16:38:09 GMT -4
Not sure on the final number on the stretch, but the driveshaft's off to PFT to get 5.25" added. If someone stops by to hold the tape measure we'll know for sure. Yeah the pinion angle's a little more then I think it needs to be... I pushed the brackets to the back of the truss... and if need be I'll unscrew the lowers some... shitty measuring on my part for the arms I guess. Oh, coilovers are 2"X14" Bilstein 9100s. Thanks Jan!
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Jul 17, 2012 18:57:30 GMT -4
Looking great G !!
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Post by DamnJeep on Jul 19, 2012 19:47:43 GMT -4
Well comtrol arms are built (minus snap rings ) and axle's bolted up for driveshart measurement and coilover testfitting. MFR and I (he's the brains behind the operation) decided that the coilover will hang down below the axle instead of going up through the body. So at this point I have to decide if I need to swap the calipers to opposite sides and run them in front of the wheel instead of behind for clearance of the coilover. I'm realy not sure... it looks like it could work as is. Used to pretty much be into the rock rail Mounting the coil below the axle? SO instead of the axle bearing the weight your mount will have to handle all the load as well as the increased torsional load? What happens when the suspension travels up and down and the axle wants to rotate? Is there going to be enough clearance for the coilover? Just wondering as I look at the pinion angle in one of the pics. It seems the coil mount would be rotated all the way under the axle. Then again it could be just the pictures. Is your rear drive shaft super short that the pinion is pointed up that high?
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Big G
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Post by Big G on Jul 20, 2012 5:37:56 GMT -4
The angle in the pic is too high... yesterday with 540Rock's help we unscrewed the lower joints 1/2" and I'll be cutting 1/2" out of the uppers and see where that leaves me.
Having the lower mount behind and below the axle is pretty much how all the kits are. Poly Performance, Genright, etc.
The driveshaft was 14.5" center cap at the axle to center rear CV joint at the t-case before and will be 19.75" after. Overall's probably 6" more then that. On that note; PFT's charging me $230 for the lengthening with the club's discount. Does that sound like a good price? Kinda shocked me a little.
PS; you can see the DS in the 2nd pic on the ground.
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