Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Apr 2, 2009 20:24:47 GMT -4
sweet man! its pretty compact.
the hoop basher will tie into the axle mount for the cylinder? the square part?
hardware upgrades coming? grd8 bolts and spacers to replace stacked washers.
|
|
yotaman
Jeeper
Bringin the PANE!
Posts: 950
|
Post by yotaman on Apr 2, 2009 20:52:28 GMT -4
Ya thanks Darren i'm glad i finally got it mounted....it sat in my tool box since November. Haha the positioner would be cheating IF i had to drill the hole in the orginal U but ya without it just would have taken longer to get done. The basher smasher will mount like the one in the pic and now that you mentioned it, a tie in to the square mount would be perfect! Oh and ya i'm going to ditch the washers for two S.S. spacers....i just needed to find the size. The bolts will be grade 8 for sure. The ram is the perfect size for a Toy or Heep axle for sure...too bad they don't come set up with 3" in 3" out.
|
|
|
Post by projectnightmare on Apr 2, 2009 21:21:33 GMT -4
one question, doesn't this need to pivot this way as well? excuse my ignorance if I just don't get it from your pic.
|
|
|
Post by mostheman on Apr 2, 2009 21:24:21 GMT -4
hes hooked onto the tie rod so hopefully no up and down movement.... Wanna make one for me too?
|
|
yotaman
Jeeper
Bringin the PANE!
Posts: 950
|
Post by yotaman on Apr 2, 2009 21:52:28 GMT -4
No i thought about this before i made the mount, it wouldn't need to go up and down at that point.
Mo, I'd say I'll be able to whip up another one in the future....will be easier as i have mine to measure off to know how long the shaft needs to be.
|
|
'Roach
Elite
InsurJeeper
...the man who decided to use torx on Jeeps should be beaten severely...
Posts: 1,002,222
|
Post by 'Roach on Apr 2, 2009 22:23:09 GMT -4
hes hooked onto the tie rod so hopefully no up and down movement.... Wanna make one for me too? x3, I'll take one of those ;D Nice work man, looks like a test run to the Curse is in order very soon
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Apr 3, 2009 6:20:21 GMT -4
how hard was it to part off? how deep is the chrome? insert or ground cutter?
|
|
yotaman
Jeeper
Bringin the PANE!
Posts: 950
|
Post by yotaman on Apr 3, 2009 6:41:04 GMT -4
Wasnt hard at all to part off, i use a Sandvik or i think thats how you spell it, parting blade with an insert. Chrome was pretty thin but you could feel it once you got past it, then it was pretty hard as i was getting some chatter but once i got into the meat of the shaft it cut like butter....i think i was at 250rpm. Plus the Do-All lathe (shop slut) is smallish compared to the ColeChester's we have.
Pretty much all our tooling is Ishcar (sp) and Sandvik using carbide and coated/uncoated HSS inserts, i use HSS ground cutters for rads tho. I have a big one ground for doing 5/8 rads on the lip of a bore on 304 flanges.....makes it real hard to get uniform since you have sharpen it a few times to get it right. 10 mins with some emery usually gets it tho
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Apr 3, 2009 7:07:16 GMT -4
would it fit a 9" chuck, 3/4 thru hole, 24" bed?
did you have to hold that thick end where the seals go, inside the chuck? (ie: need a big chuck with room behind the jaws?)
|
|
yotaman
Jeeper
Bringin the PANE!
Posts: 950
|
Post by yotaman on Apr 3, 2009 11:22:28 GMT -4
Hmm I think your outta luck because the shaft is 1" its self. The lathe I used had close to the same size chuck but the thru hole is 2" or more so I only had what needed to be cut off sticking out. I took everything off the shaft so it was basicly a 1" rod with a 1/2" thread at the end.
If it wasn't for the chance of damaging the chrome you could hold the end with you jaws having the rest hanging out then use your steady rest to keep it supported and from chattering while you cut it.
|
|
|
Post by theonlybull on Apr 3, 2009 19:27:31 GMT -4
jan, cut the U off the end with a chop saw. grab that end in your chuck, turn the chrome off, and down to what ever size you need, at the location you need. then part off, or just cut it off with the chop saw, and your left with a nice machined shoulder......
honestly, you don't need to go through all that trouble. chop it off, but it up, and weld it on.
i've fixed many cylinders that are alot bigger, and under alot more stress without any issues. just get it as straight as you can and your good to go
|
|
justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
|
Post by justajeep on Apr 4, 2009 7:36:51 GMT -4
honestly, you don't need to go through all that trouble. chop it off, but it up, and weld it on. i've fixed many cylinders that are alot bigger, and under alot more stress without any issues. just get it as straight as you can and your good to go X2
|
|
Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
|
Post by Creepy on Apr 4, 2009 12:27:29 GMT -4
right on, lots of ways to skin the cat.
|
|
yotaman
Jeeper
Bringin the PANE!
Posts: 950
|
Post by yotaman on Apr 4, 2009 14:38:54 GMT -4
Yup you defiantly don't need a lathe to do this...i just happened to be a manual machinist so it was 5 mins of machine time and i was good to go. Got my ported box installed this morning, went really smooth and easy. Kinda had a problem with the fittings I bought though. The 90* ones i was going to run on the ram wouldn't tighten the way i wanted them to, like once they were bottomed out the output was facing down on one and up on the other . So i had to use a straight fitting on the high pressure side of the ram and a 45 on the low pressure so the lines kinda stick out a bit and didn't come out with the "clean install" look so I'll have to fix that. Took a quick drive around the block after i bled the system a bit and WOW it really feels like the wheels are off the ground when turning. I had no jerky wheel over un-even road or potholes and steering response was perfect. I'm sure I still have some air in system though because after about 5 mins it started to get a bit stiff at slow speed but would pick right up once i got moving again. From what I've read on line it takes a good amount of sitting/bleeding to get all the air out. Pic of the box with all the lines installed This is the restricter on the high pressure side of the pump i had to drill out for more flow Box installed, low pressure side Shot of the lines On and un-related note this is my t-case mount i cut out with the plasma. Its some 3/8" thk S.S. plate i got from the Aerospace section of stock, it's supposed to be hardened or something, should work out real good.
|
|
|
Post by Dr. Burkeee on Apr 4, 2009 16:02:35 GMT -4
Very cool Paul
|
|