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Post by C.B.RENEGADE on May 24, 2014 12:24:27 GMT -4
They're wicked bii
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jmurphy
Jeeper
Trail Master 2 - Valley
Posts: 994
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Post by jmurphy on May 24, 2014 19:15:10 GMT -4
...dimples... so much desire...
Looks great. I really enjoy seeing light gauge steel used with the dimples to stiffen it up. So much strength with so little weight gain.
Jonathan
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Dewie
Jeeper
Junk Lord
Yeah thats right - I drive a Lada :P
Posts: 1,249
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Post by Dewie on May 26, 2014 6:46:11 GMT -4
Shouldn't the over-flow/reservoir be higher than the rad?
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bill richards
Jeeper
Millwood Marauder
mud re-freshener
Posts: 4,169
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Post by bill richards on May 26, 2014 8:36:38 GMT -4
Shouldn't the over-flow/reservoir be higher than the rad? I was contemplating the same thing... water seeking it's lowest level and all... Might not matter for a simple catch can though, since it is kind of outside the pressurized system. It's not a pressure bottle like on an old XJ. Any water brought back in through the rad cap would be sucked up by vaccuum pressure as the cooling system cools... so it's location might not matter for that part either. That's the thought I settled on anyway. Bill
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on May 26, 2014 14:04:10 GMT -4
The pressurized rad cap can burp to the overflow. There will be some coolant in the overflow to cover the hose at bottom of tank, so no air can enter system.
That should create the situation where coolant can flow from tank to rad if it wants.
? Yeah?
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bill richards
Jeeper
Millwood Marauder
mud re-freshener
Posts: 4,169
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Post by bill richards on May 26, 2014 14:06:57 GMT -4
I'm sold... lol
Bill
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Dewie
Jeeper
Junk Lord
Yeah thats right - I drive a Lada :P
Posts: 1,249
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Post by Dewie on May 26, 2014 15:14:25 GMT -4
The pressurized rad cap can burp to the overflow. There will be some coolant in the overflow to cover the hose at bottom of tank, so no air can enter system. That should create the situation where coolant can flow from tank to rad if it wants. ? Yeah? I thought the whole purpose of the tank was to allow for expansion (air space) while maximizing the amount of coolant in the rad for maximum cooling? If the air space is in the rad then the bottle will be full kind of negating it's purpose other than holding more coolant, may as well have gone for a bigger rad at that point. My old tractors just have an air space at the top of the rad but the fill line is the top of the fins.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on May 26, 2014 19:41:54 GMT -4
Say the tank is above the radcap, and the rad is full. When I took the rad cap off, the overflow tank would drain back, overflow the rad, and spill all over the ground.
The overflow is just to let the rad burp past the pressure cap, and not leak on the ground/all over the buggy. I don't care if it sucks coolant back in. I think it will, but it doesn't really matter. My main intent is to not leak coolant on the ground.
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Dewie
Jeeper
Junk Lord
Yeah thats right - I drive a Lada :P
Posts: 1,249
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Post by Dewie on May 26, 2014 20:25:47 GMT -4
So basically you're using it as a catch can? I'm not saying it won't work at all, I'm just saying on automotive purposes that I'm used to that's why it's higher than the rad. Drive down a lot of hills and you should be fine My tractor has a drain tube to the bottom of the rad to piss it out all over the ground, once you get it good and hot once you don't have to worry about the fluid level I guess? You're just being more environmentally friendly
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on May 26, 2014 20:43:18 GMT -4
Being a closed system (15psi rad cap) and the overflow-bottle hose being under coolant, i think it will function as a system, not just a catch-can. It should maintain suction to draw coolant back from overflow if rad burps air, as long as the hose remains under coolant in the bottle. It is moulded into the base of the bottle.
Did you get the point about having bottle higher than rad, it would drain back when rad cap (pressure) is removed? If there is not enough space in the rad to accept the overflow bottle volume, the rest will go on the ground? That is not how they work on stockers!
But yes, in the end - my only purpose is catch-can.
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chevystroker
Jeeper
NEVER CONFUSE HAVING A CAREER WITH HAVING A LIFE ! ! ! ! ! !
Posts: 896
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Post by chevystroker on May 26, 2014 20:49:26 GMT -4
Say the tank is above the radcap, and the rad is full. When I took the rad cap off, the overflow tank would drain back, overflow the rad, and spill all over the ground. The overflow is just to let the rad burp past the pressure cap, and not leak on the ground/all over the buggy. I don't care if it sucks coolant back in. I think it will, but it doesn't really matter. My main intent is to not leak coolant on the ground. I am pretty sure this is how it is supposed to work. It will suck the coolant back up into the rad. If your overflow bottle has a pressure cap on it, and is part of the pressurized system, then it will be above the radiator, as you fill the system through the bottle. If you check any vehicle with the pressure cap in the rad, the overflow bottle will be below the rad, and the coolant level in the bottle will certainly be below the top of the rad. As the coolant expands with heat, the extra overflows into the bottle. When the system cools off and the coolant contracts, the vacuum will draw fluid back into the rad, keeping it full. This will also purge the system of any trapped air over time as well. It also helps resupply the rad if you have a small leak, for a short time anyway. The bottle is not pressurized so if the coolant is overheated, and pops the rad cap, the coolant will overfill the bottle, and drain onto the ground. It certainly is more environmentally friendly, but also less wasteful.
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Dewie
Jeeper
Junk Lord
Yeah thats right - I drive a Lada :P
Posts: 1,249
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Post by Dewie on May 26, 2014 21:09:53 GMT -4
Ahhh the bottle is not pressurized, my bad guys; on a VW, Saturn, Sunfire, and various other vehicles I'm more familiar with the bottle is pressurized; I see now 100% how the system works with the bottle not being pressurized and on the 'other' side of the pressure cap. I guess I can go to bed now, day is over I learned something
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Aug 14, 2014 22:44:45 GMT -4
The shifter couldn't get 1st gear, had to use drive. And the lifting action in/out of reverse was a pain in the ass. Couldn't shift fast, and it was hard to keep the cable adjusted. Figured out what to remove, the silver stuff. stick it in the little mill after failing at die grinding and filing. There, now it will bang stop at reverse, and I can go from forward to reverse smoothly. It still lifts in/out of park, that's fine. And it is adjusted properly now to get and hold 1st gear. Ran it for awhile on the rocks in the pit, jamming around, it worked good.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Aug 14, 2014 22:54:07 GMT -4
Sometimes there is a guy at the top of the road who sells fire extinguisers, saw he had this little one with a mount, bought it for $10. Easy to see from all angles and if I'm upside down and sideways I can always grab it.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Aug 14, 2014 22:57:25 GMT -4
master cylinder protector. the brake lines come out this side, and they seemed like they were easy to rip off. dimple material is aluminum. It's like, 10Hp at the wheels.
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