Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Jun 27, 2011 22:35:28 GMT -4
I have Toy rear wheel bearing re-packing pics in my CJ5 thread. Vastly superior design.
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Post by 2004sahara on Jun 27, 2011 23:04:06 GMT -4
i have limited toyota experince...but probly 10 years ago i got a call from a good buddy wanting some help with his 1983?? toyota rear end....the axles were bolted in and did not use C clips..this seemed like a very strong set up. it was an easy gear change out cause of the center section design.
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Post by 2004sahara on Jun 27, 2011 23:19:54 GMT -4
oh...the yellow CJ is very very cool!! nice jeep!
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Post by chefted on Jun 28, 2011 7:03:36 GMT -4
Yup, its and AMC20 with a truss and aftermarket one-piece axles. Old, non c-clip XJ's would have the same bearing orientation, and D44's too, shouldn't they? Anything without a c-clip is going to have the bearing race out towards the wheel, not in the housing. C-clips axles will install the race in the housing. Nope D44 go in the other way, like you had originally. With no shims, the d20 uses shims to tighten preload, the d 44 uses the bearing retainer, that's it.
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justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
Posts: 7,214
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Post by justajeep on Jun 29, 2011 7:18:10 GMT -4
The 44 bearing (and old non c-clip 35) have a thick washer built into the back of the bearing for the HD seal to go up against, and the retainer goes against the seal. The bearing and race (cone and cup) come as a unit. The race can come off the bearing, and usually does when you take the axle out.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Jun 29, 2011 17:04:20 GMT -4
Thx Alan! that explains it.
How do you measure the preload on the AMC20? to set up the shims?
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Post by chefted on Jun 29, 2011 19:48:55 GMT -4
Thx Alan! that explains it. How do you measure the preload on the AMC20? to set up the shims? You measure the end play, axel installed, bolted up.
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Post by chefted on Jun 29, 2011 20:28:57 GMT -4
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Post by chefted on Jun 29, 2011 20:33:17 GMT -4
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Post by chefted on Jun 29, 2011 20:37:45 GMT -4
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Post by chefted on Jun 29, 2011 20:49:25 GMT -4
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Jun 29, 2011 21:10:41 GMT -4
thx a million Ted!
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Jul 11, 2011 12:31:50 GMT -4
Ordered some set9's and new seals today. gonna fix this thing up later today, get it finger'd out right good.
gotta check the other side and see if there is a probelm there as well.
i don't see bearing spacers in the end of the housing like the instructions say.
I called Superior Axle to get the proper bearing ID, and they said the lockring will hit the inner seal, gotta machine down the width. (they offered to send a machined one, but I have a lathe, no biggy.)
hopefully have the rig up coffee night tomorrow for a test drive. don't get too close!
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Post by chefted on Jul 11, 2011 19:25:14 GMT -4
i don't see bearing spacers in the end of the housing like the instructions say. Noticed that as well, thought it may have been the pic, knew you would figure it out
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Jul 11, 2011 23:06:24 GMT -4
Oops, there are in there once I got it cleaned up and buffed. Had a hell of a time getting the inner seal out, took like 2 fawkin hours! But anyway, I can machine the spacer and the lockring, and get rid of the shims.
I didn't use the right bearing last time, used the bearing for a stocker. I can see the difference in this A9, its got an extra ring to press on the retainer.
The bearing is together as a unit, (the race is stuck on the bearing.) Superior and the bearing instructions say the race may stay in the housing after the first time you take it apart.
Feeling better about this now that I have the proper clean parts in my hands, and Ted and Alan's help, and the instructions.
I think I'll go put it in right now, fresh off a nap! lol
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