Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Apr 20, 2013 21:59:35 GMT -4
I'm reading there were two style lift pumps for the 5.9 CR, I think my lift pump is on the side of the block. The later trucks went in-tank. Gotta look and see! Those filter/pump units sure look cool, and the filtering looks great. But after checking them out, its more than I need. I'll prob just replace the stocker. Here's those balljoints. www.xrfchassis.comwww.xrfchassis.com/parts-balljoints.htmThey have a dist. listed in Moncton, so I asked them for a quote. Here's the balljoint issue described with pics. quad4x4.com/aamBallJoints.html It's a kinda shitty design eh? A lot wrong there, its not just one thing.
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Post by BenConrad on Apr 21, 2013 6:21:16 GMT -4
On the lift pump: your truck being a cr has the in tank electric pump which is very reliable. Sorry Ben but this is just incorrect information. Early 04 ( which was common rail) had an electric lift pump on the side of the filter housing, not in tank. If his is early, they were prone to failure. The later in tank versions were more reliable. . Yea I remembered that after I posted. Brain fart.
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Post by chefted on Apr 21, 2013 9:17:15 GMT -4
I find it interesting how a companies blame a recurring problem on a certain design and not the combined issues. The ball joint design on the 2500 series ram is the same design used since 95( floating upper and fixed lower). The 95 and up dana 60 uses the same design as well. The Ford D 60 also same design. The link above states they are larger, well not by much. Any one who has had the early kingpin design apart would not agree with the statement that the upper is like a kingpin design. The real problem in my mind, is the change to ball joints for such a heavy truck period. They should have stuck to the old kingpin design found in my 1990 Dodge and the like of the same era, mine are still tight and probably will be for a while, and when they do fail its a cheap repair. Or I can go with a spring less upper and tighten them routinely. .
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Post by chefted on Apr 21, 2013 9:18:26 GMT -4
And Jan your pump will not be on the block, if it's the early model it will be on the back side of the fuel filter housing.
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justajeep
Moderator
Valley - VP
Bear River, NS
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Post by justajeep on Apr 21, 2013 10:03:14 GMT -4
Chrysler has a in tank fuel pump upgrade for them too, Tracy's father's has had it done (Black 2wd we had at Jam). Not sure what the kit with wiring is, but just the pump/sending unit alone is $500.
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Apr 21, 2013 15:19:59 GMT -4
Ted - thx for all the info. The cross sectional pic in the link looks like a floating pin to me, not a ball joint. But I've never worked on these trucks...and you do everyday, so I'm listening. lol What balljonts do you guys buy when you need to replace? Moog, Spicer, etc And Jan your pump will not be on the block, if it's the early model it will be on the back side of the fuel filter housing. ya, wasn't being overly specific. Just meant not in the tank. I'm gonna go look here in a bit. Alan - I will be comparing aftermarket pump upgrades to stock replacement pumps, once I get the deathwobble chased out. I won't pay for stock parts, if aftermarket solutions are within a couple hundred bucks. If we are already talking hundreds of dollars...might as well pull the trigger now rather than later on that upgrade. Don't need to buy it twice. I'm going to keep this truck for a long time, I hope!
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Post by chefted on Apr 21, 2013 17:23:16 GMT -4
Yes it is a floating pin and not a ball/socket arrangement. My problem is the link refers to it as a kingpin. No kingpin design i have ever seen floats. The top cup is spring loaded, so no floating. And a tapered bearing on the bottom. We use Moog for the lifetime warranty benefit. We know they will not last, but in my experience none do so, we go with the one time cost for the part. I would like to try a set of the Dynatrac rebuild able units, but no one has tried yet. Keep in mind the factory spec for the lower BJ is .090. Under that amount will not cause DW, top is .060 by pushing in and out on the top of tire. That spec, I don't agree with, I like 0, but that is just my opinion. lol For your own info, install your BJ's whatever kind you choose drive around for a week or so and check them, I be there is movement. Usually you can go through two lowers for one set of uppers. And here is how I look at the pump thing, that factory one has lasted how long? The next one will prob last the lifetime of the truck, and you can get them pretty much anywhere, if the aftermarket one fails you are done for a week or so, your call.
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chevystroker
Jeeper
NEVER CONFUSE HAVING A CAREER WITH HAVING A LIFE ! ! ! ! ! !
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Post by chevystroker on Apr 21, 2013 20:59:30 GMT -4
Some of that aftermarket stuff does not have the reliability or quality of most OEM parts (assuming there isn't a design flaw with the OEM parts). My neighbour has gone through 3 or 4 of the Airdog pumps now, within a year. They sent him replacements, but like Ted said, you are down while you are waiting. They have since upgraded the seal between the pump and the electric motor.
The aftermarket is not always an upgrade, just good marketing.
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Apr 21, 2013 21:04:53 GMT -4
I see your point.
Is the neighbor the menace in the white van? lol I got up behind him the other day in his mirrors, fawkin around. Got beside and gave him a rev....got a big thumbs up. haha
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Post by casey on Apr 21, 2013 21:28:52 GMT -4
i have always used moog/napa because of the easy warranty. tried the xrf stuff for a bit but when it came warranty time it was always a wait. moog or napa is always in stock. just make sure its life time
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Creepy
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Dartmouth
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Post by Creepy on Apr 26, 2013 13:38:53 GMT -4
Got the balljoints done last night.
XFR couldn't supply uppers for two weeks,so with the info from Casey that I would be left sitting waiting for parts when warranty comes up.....I went with lifetime Moogs from PartsSource, where they are always avail over the counter.
Pricey MF'ers.....$540 tax in for all 4. Ouch. Then on the way home, froze up a rear caliper and had to go back and buy one for $116, which wasn't so bad, if I had not just bought balljoints.
Went out Scott's late, he got the pig up on the lift, and then took apart my front end in 20 minutes, where it would have taken me 2 hours of dicking around. Then he went to bed and left me with the balljoints and the press kit.
Made a joke about 'having fun now' and he hit the sack.
Yeah, real fun! lol
Balljoint presses are a bit of a learned skill, the 2nd side was a lot faster! And the joints are long on the bottom, so had to do two setups per lower to get out, then in. (4 setups for lower)
But got it all done around 4am, and the truck seems to be way more stable. Was really dark and raining, so I didn't get to drive it hard yet and see if it will deathwobble.
Think I got it now tho!
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Post by C.B.RENEGADE on Apr 26, 2013 13:46:46 GMT -4
Sounds like lots of fun!
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The Garagemahal
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Post by The Garagemahal on Apr 26, 2013 21:56:43 GMT -4
Wicked !!! If I stayed up for another 2 hours you would have been done
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Post by BenConrad on Apr 28, 2013 19:56:01 GMT -4
Oh yeah and those presses (well my OTC anyways) are hardly enough to get those balljoints in and out. Its a shitty job!
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Creepy
Administrator
Dartmouth
Posts: 18,718
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Post by Creepy on Apr 28, 2013 23:18:00 GMT -4
Get caught up with a few pics. Dwayne servicing the trans and oil change. Thx Man! Fuel filter - dirty housing new one 7micron from Cummins dealer in Burnside. the bed. some hay that has since been cleaned out. gooseneck rails there. Its got a liner and cover on the tailgate, good for hauling my steel sheets. air filter no brainer saw a ujoint cap was spinning, picked up a new joint. Also grabbed a Jet 3/4 drive socket for the hub nut. The ujoint was fine, i took the cap out and it was fine, greased it and put it back in. Stay! ;D oil change oil, from Cummins dealer, looking out the window at my truck. Put this in the rear end. BA won the Royal Purple at Valley Crawl last year. 3.73's See the limited slip gear? No clutches, no friction modifier req'd. closer ball joints at Scott's. Thx for the lift and press! ;D driver door master switch had the remote mirror buttons pushed into the bezel. broken post. mixed some epoxy to set hard and tried it out. It worked. Adjusted the mirrors. Neighbor had a visitor with a Rockin' Ram, so I took a pic since they have same paint and chrome CTD thing going on. Wobble is gone now, feels great on the road last few days.
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